per Miramontes: "Start up a flake/crack, then traverse right on a shelf, to a crack and face."

Cashews Will Be Eaten

Power Failure

Blue Diamond (aka Shock to the System)

ZZZZZ Direct Start

Power Line

Rad Nad

Blues Traveler

ZZZZZ

Blue Cross

Team Scumbag

Disrythmia

Flower Power

Electric Blue

Potato Head

Direct Current

Energy Crisis

Changes

Unsolved Mystery

Functional Analysis

TVC15

Smear Factor

Police & Thieves

New Deal

Electralux

Incandescent

Power Drop

Rarely does a route look entirely impossible, but typical of Cosgrove's routes, this one does.  The climbing is very technical with miniscule slopers.  The first 15 feet are 5.13a, then 5.12c for 2 bolts, then if that isn't enough, after the 7th bolt 60' up comes the 5.13+ crux.  And just for some flavor, there is the Josh-typical 5.12a runout to the top.  Better be strong for this super endurance route.

Same start (5.8/9) as Power line and Power Drop. After about 15 feet move slightly right and climb the face (5.8) up to a horizontal crack. Above is a slightly overhanging face with 4 bolts and two 5.10+ sections.

Climb the outer face of the flake past a low bolt, then continue up the smooth face above the flake (crux) to shared anchors with Electric Blue. The lower portion of the route is on grainier rock while the upper portion is on high-quality stone.

This is a 2-bolt direct start to ZZZZZ. Begin about 30 feet right of the normal start and climb up to and onto a dike (5.9), then tiptoe left to join ZZZZZ.

This start adds some quality moves to the pitch. I'd give ZZZZZ an extra star with the direct start (four stars instead of three).

Be forewarned that the direct start does not lesson the runnouts of the original route. Even though the direct start is well-protected, you still have to climb the runnout up to ZZZZZ's original first bolt (5.7 R) and the runnout from the first to the second bolt (5.8 PG) of the original route. Above this is a critical gear placement in a short crack (.75 inch, # .5 camalot) after which you can move up and right to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor shared by Electric Blue/Blue Diamond/Electralux -or- move left and climb the face (5.8 PG) up to a big ledge and gear anchor. This is the line of the first ascent and gives you the full value pitch, although you'll need to set up a gear anchor and scramble off right (class 3) and descend slabs on the north side of the formation.

the start is pretty interesting...figure it out... I did it right off the ground no traverse as shown in Randys guide...personally for me it felt a little harder (Off route again most likely at the start...Just how I do things???...) than 5.7... whatever!!!... nice laybacking, solid holds, fun footwork... aiming at the bird doo doo, about 15 feet below it is a flake that is very likely to bust loose the very next time someone touches it... Belayer beware!!! Serious potential danger below!!! You can avoid it by moving left then getting back on route above it. The roof move is what some have said is the "Crux" move... The start was for me. The roof was just plain fun!!!

A flaky start gains the first bolt and then climbs a lower angled lumpy face to a ledge. Above the ledge the wall steepens and fun moves past a huge patina flake conclude the pitch.

Start up

Team Scumbag

, clip the first bolt on that route, then continue straight up past three more bolts to anchors just below the top. The climbing is enjoyable and well-protected - yet another fun, moderate route to do when in the area.

This fun face route is on excellent rock near the left side of the right end of the East Face of Little Hunk. It lies just left of

Electric Blue

(5.11c).

Begin off a boulder and head up and right on face, then straight up past 2 bolts to a small horizontal break (gear possible here). Finish up and left reaching a large ledge.

This route is a bit run out, but nothing that a calm head won't solve.

From the second bolt of Team Scumbag climb up and right to the Blues Traveler anchor.

Left of

ZZZZZ

(5.9 R) is this left-trending line on somewhat grainy rock. While the rock on this climb isn't on par with some of the others to the right, the moves are fun and well-protected. The route ends on a large ledge (the same ledge ZZZZZ finishes on), and an easy walk-off is found by walking northward down the toe of Little Hunk.

This  is a steep, 5 bolt face with a very thin crux.

On the North East (right side) of Little Hunk, just right of a tree, are two, obvious, parallel, verical cracks. Climb the left crack until you can traverse left. Work the ledges left until you reach a crack leading to the top.

Expect delicate steep face climbing which culminates in a distinctive crux move near the 4th bolt as you grapple with the thinnest climbing on the route. Once past the crux the difficulties subside and it's easy to the top.

The great rock, well-protected and engaging moves and location all combine to make this a fun route for the grade. Three stars out of five.

Two obvious, vertical cracks will be seen on the Northeast face, right. Climb these cracks to the top. We TR'd this route, and I'm glad we did. The pro in the upper crack is PG with a runout. I suggest you TR it, and check it out before doing a lead. As I rapped it, I noted some problems setting pro in the crux area; and a fall there could be very serious indeed.

From the 3rd bolt on Electralux climb straight up, finishing left of and independent of Incandescent.

Closed to climbing due to the presence of nearby Native rock art; this route entry is for historical purposes only.

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Start in a shallow right facing corner and then follow discontinuous cracks past several horizontals through the patina covered face above. Gear belay and walk off.

Begin from a gully about 50 ft. up and left from

Blues Traveller

(5.10d) and climb a low angle slab past 1 bolt (5.5) to a steep headwall (3 bolts, 11+) then easier (.9) steep face up and left past 5 more bolts to the top of the formation. 2 bolt rap. 100 ft.

Closed to climbing due to the presence of nearby Native rock art; this route entry is for historical purposes only.

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Cool sculpted climbing through four bolts then a runout to a ledge and a crack to the top.

Can connect this to the second (better) half of Rad Nad or continue along the upper crack which is easy.

This is the right most crack line on this face.  Start with a hard face move to a left angling ramp feature.  Work up and left to a thin flared crack.

Please leave this route like the first ascencionist left it - a top rope.

Begin just left of the start of Team Scumbag/Blues Traveler. Climb a left-slanting crack, move up to and climb a left-slanting dike, then climb past a flake up to the left end of a big ledge. Descend by walking off to the right (class 3).

Begin just right of Disrythmia and make some very delicate (12-) moves into a concavity, followed by overhanging jugs (11-).  The crux at the start is well-protected, and very balancey (like a V4 boulder problem). Once you solve this, you're into some steep face climbing on nice patina jugs.

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Closed to climbing due to the presence of Native rock art; this route entry is for historical purposes only.

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Two bolts down low protect the fingery crux and then gear when available following a nebulous line that angles left to join Energy Crisis at the prominent horizontal crack about two thirds of the way up the face.

Right of

Blue Diamond (aka Shock to the System)

is this left-trending slab route with engaging moves on quality rock that leads to shared anchors with Electric Blue and Blue Diamond. A fun route that's good on those warm days as well as being a nice place to escape the scene at Echo Rock.

Start just right of Electralux and make a height dependent move (5.9 if you're 5 ft 10 or taller, harder if you're shorter) past a bolt up to a ledge, then climb a sustained slab (5.8-) on very high quality rock past 6 more bolts to a 2-bolt anchor (80 ft.)

This is a mixed crack and face, with shallow finger jams, liebacks, and an exposed traverse.  It's in a shady location.  This route is listed as "Power Lichen" in some guidebooks.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Little Hunk - NE Face (Right)