Country Rhoads starts out on the far right side of The Little Three Finger Jack formation. Start out by mantling up on a small formation set below a roof. Work through the roof sequence and climb through the next 3 bolts on good holds. From a good rest, work into the first crux of the route slapping your way up around a slopey bulge with the sequence ending with a crossing throw to a jug; true hero climbing! (A new sequence has been worked out foregoing the big cross.) Climb past the bulge through a cruxy face section and link into the huge flake/crack system above. The third and final crux is pulling the roof crack before the anchors.(There is a huge block chocked under the massive flake above covered with “X’s”. Do not climb on this block! It’s easily avoidable and does not affect the route.)Country roads, take me homeTo the place, I belongWest Virginia, mountain mamaTake me home...

Country Rhoads

Asian Persuasion

Heart of Gold

Gravy-Gold

Japanese Steez

Rot-Punkt Funk

Gravy Train

Frogger

Korean BBQ

Run Reed Run

Dance With the Devil

Start out climbing Country Rhoads and before the final roof sequence, bust left and climb through the roof of Asian Persuasion. 2 long runners work nicely to eliminate rope drag. 

Start climbing up the seam on good holds. Climb through the 1st roof sequence pulling the lip on jugs. The next 3 roofs are where the business is. You're met with a hard move clearing or pulling over each roof section on the route. The crux is past the 3rd roof on the face and the redpoint crux (for me) was clearing the 4th roof.MAKE SURE TO FEED OUT A GENEROUS AMOUNT OF SLACK CLIMBING THROUGH THE CRUX PAST THE 3rd ROOF! Falling through the crux and getting short roped causes the climber to fall into the roof at knee height. Drop the climber well below the roof for a clean fall!

The crux comes right off the ground with some big, powerful moves on sidepulls (think Energy Crisis but more fun). Pass a difficult roof at the 4th bolt, then the rest of the route features 5.11- climbing on steep and interesting rock, moving left on a nice exposed slab at the finish.

Starts clipping first two bolts on Gravy Train  then goes left into and finishes on Heart of Gold.

This route features overhanging climbing, hard face climbing, and 3 distinct roofs too clear. It has good rest here and there but the difficulty is persistent until it gets even harder at the last 3 bolts. While the roofs seem to be the where the hardest climbing would be, the technical headwall at the top will leave many strong climbers perplexed by the lack of holds.

Start out climbing on big jugs and slopers up to the 3rd bolt. Make a move to clip the 4th bolt and establish onto the ledge above. The next 2 bolts are spaced closer together to protect from hitting the ledge. (The first of the two bolts is placed on a bulge sticking out farther than the rest of the wall. This further out plain makes for a clean fall going to the second bolt. I’ve taken the fall a couple times and your feet barely touch the wall.) Traverse left through the overhanging bulge and establish onto the slab. The traverse and making the clip are the crux. Establish onto the slab and move up and left. Committing technical slab climbing on good holds leads to an overhanging arete corner overhead. Climb over the corner, make some easier moves on good holds up to the last clip. Climb the last bouldery section on ok holds to the anchors.

A great route on good rock with a heartbreaking crux at the top and varied climbing.

 Start off on some 5.10+ climbing on some crumbly stone before you get to the good rock 3 bolts up. Work through multiple roofs and crux's separated by some decent rest. Good technique is just as necessary as overall strength, being that the climb has so many different styles of difficult climbing throughout the route. The actual crux comes up top passing the 2nd to last bolt on the near vertical slab. There is also a notable crux passing the 6th bolt.

One of smith's steeper hard routes that also features good holds. A hard crux pulling a bulge (maybe v7) on slopers leads to a 5.12- finish that stays steep till the anchors. Start off a giant jug sticking out from the wall and continue straight up. Where Rot-Punkt Funk traverses left, Frogger Goes out right. Seems a little sketchy above the ledge off the last bolt the two routes share, but the fall has been crash dummied and proven safe.

Start out climbing up a dihedral of not great rock to access the route. Once standing on top of the dihedral pillar, youre able to clip bolt two and get into the good rock. Get past the first boulder sequence leaving the pillar to access the standing ledge. (Unclip bolt 4 on the large flake before climbing.) The lower crux sections come down low passing bolts 5 and 6. Pass the lower crux using good edges and slopey holds. Make your way to the slab for a full no hands rest.Climb through the slab section on perfect rock contending with a committing section in the middle of the slab. The upper crux comes past the slab.Climb into the overhung roof section moving up and left. Climb through the crux leading to a jug and mantel over the lip to another great rest.The anchors are guarded by a final technical face section. 

The route begins on protruding knobs and moderate climbing. At the 6th bolt, the crux starts on slopers, dances across devious little crimps, and culminates with powerful moves into, and out of, a large sidepull. After a no-hands rest on the slab, the upper wall still packs a punch with burly underclings, moving right to an arete at the finish.

 Save this one for a cold day in hell.

The Little Three Finger Jack is the located climbers’ right of The Big Ben tower. This tower was the last untouched formation in the Monument area and maybe one of the last undeveloped formations in the whole park. Surprising, as the rock on this formation is bullet hard in most spots. Just like a lot of the towers over in the Monument area, some of the routes will have heavily cleaned starts. Rest assured, once you’ve climbed through the once chossy rock, the climbing breaks way to juggy/slopey/crimpy red patina goodness.There are 9 established routes with independent anchors on The Alex Reed Memorial Wall. The routes on the right side of the wall are characterized by a 4 tiered roof system. Those routes climb directly through or around the 4 roofs. The left side of the L3FJ features longer routes that climb through punchy crux sections clearing bulges and roofs, and all climb through the amazing red patina slab midway up the wall.

This wall gets sun all day. It’s one of the first towers to go in the sun over in the Monument area and one of the first to go back in the shade. By 9am it’s in full sun and goes back into the shade at 5pm (during the summer). Definitely a great winter time wall. With the time change during the winter, the wall is in full shade by 3pm.

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Routes in Little Three Finger Jack AKA The Alex Reed Memorial Wall