A classic arete problem. Sit start on good holds on the prominent arete. Make a few moves up to a large hold and swing your heel over and topout. Variations continue up the arete and finish on crimps.

Primate

The Impossible Problem

Headbutt

Primate Direct

The Inside Scoop

The Possible Problem

The Improbable Problem

Forest Thump

Easy Cheese

Tickled Pink

Statement Enclosed

Improbable Extension

Possible Problem sit

Impossible Sit

Impossible Extension

One Eyed Monster

Thump (RIP)

No Eyed Monster

Dave's Cave

I spent a number of days trying this route and was shut down by weather. 

  This is the climb to do in Smuggs. It starts off on a two positive crimps at about head height. You make a move up to a terrible two finger pocket that nearly ripped all of my skin off. Then slap your feet on terrible edges and smear on the left part of the arete. Make a very difficult move up to a terrible hold on the lip. Slap a large bucket and finish.

Start with a good left hand edge and a sloping right hand crescent. Commit to pulling on above the uneven landing and figure out how to make it to the jug at the lip of the boulder. The tree branch may want to say hello. Top out on jugs.

Stand Start on adjacent quartz crimps above head height just to the left of the smaller boulder. Paste a foot and move left onto a good edge and finish with a big move to the lip.

This starts to the left of the Impossible problem on the tall crimps you use for the V10/11 sit start variation to Impossible problem. They are small sharp crimps higher than head level, might need to stand on a pad to reach.

 Use the huge shelf as a foot and make a move left to a nice hold on the lip with a small 2 finger bucket in it. Dyno up over the lip for a triangle hold and top out however you can.

 Alternatively you can make a move right to the lip hold for Impossible Problem and go up for the triangular hold with your left hand. This makes it more of a 4.

Starts on a great blocky hold on the arete, reach up to a good slopey crimp, get a heelhook on the start and work your way up the arete. The crux sequence revolves around a big slap to a left hand sloper that seems useless upon initial inspection.

EDIT- This route is no longer climbable. A giant boulder rolled down the hill and rested itself right at the start of this climb. 

  Sit start as For "Thump" and continue left, up crimps, to finish as for Primate. See beta photo for starting holds.

Start standing with crimps above your head and climb the slab.

Sit start on the rail, gain the lip, mantle over and top out.

Sit smart on small right facing corner block about 5 feet right of tree. Figure out a way to pull on and then up the easy slab.

Sit start inside the cave underneath "The Improbable Problem" on ground level. Start matched on a jug horn in the cave. Pull onto the wall and figure out what holds to use in order to get into "The Improbable Problem", then finish up that line with a little more pump! Adds 4-6 moves into the problem. A little tight, but it adds some quality movement and tension!

I guess you could say this is a variation to Impossible Problem sit. However, I believe it is the least contrived way to climb these holds from the sit. Impossible Problem sit ignores jugs on the left and forces a harder first move with the right hand. This sequence is easier and thus not a forced sequence.

 Sit start on the jug shelf. Go left hand to the crimp, lock off to the right hand crimp, then grab the jug on the lip out left towards One Eyed Monster and finish Possible problem.

Same start as for One Eyed Monster. Climb up into the Possible Problem/Impossible Extension. Do a big move to lowest crimp with your right hand and try to get the thumb catch on it, pull up into the higher left hand crimp and head out right and gaston the left hand start for Impossible problem and figure out how to finish Impossible.

Start on the Possible problem crimps. Climb right into the Impossible problem start holds. Finish the full Impossible problem line.

The climb immediately to the left of Impossible Problem. Starts on the low shelf with a high left heel and using an armbar on the shelf get the sidepull on the piece above the 'eye'.

No longer climbable due to rockfall landing up against the climb.

Some may consider this a link-up but I think its a great problem on its own: Sit Start on the left end of large shelf on two good holds, move up and right into the seam with small crimps. Continue up using crimps and a quarts pinch and then move out right to the finger bucket on the lip of the overlap above the shelf, from here continue up and right (the same top out as for one eyed monster.)

Slide down into Dave's Cave between the start of Thump and the rockfall boulder. Sit start with matched hands on the lowest shelf on the rock fall boulder. Get a sweet heel-toe cam on the shelf behind your hands and rock up and left to the second flake shelf and make a big move to the top of the rockfall boulder. Press out onto the rock fall boulder and scramble up to the top of Thump. 

  Watch the tree at your back.

One of the most popular boulders at Smuggs.  Most of the climbing is on the face away from the road.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Backyard Boulder