Start on Afternoon Buzz but trend left to a separate line of bolts after the third bolt. Mostly good holds with some tough moves thrown in between.

Wet Your Whistle

Wicked Hazy

Simpler Times

High Life

Tie One On

Cognitive Dissonance

Summer Shandy

Two Cups of Silly

Darkness Falls

Evening Wood

PBR Street Gang

Better Than Homemade

Falls City

Hang Over

Mini Keg

Shotgun

Bourbon Barrel Shot Gun

Magic Medicine

Hop Slammed

Trailer Trashed

Sluts are CooI

Morning Wood

Beer-Thirty

Beers to You

Fake ID

The Fray Train

Afternoon Buzz

Walk of Shame

Korsakoff Syndrome

Beers to Me

Drunken Master

Liquid Courage

Start on large holds for the first couple bolts before heading right around the corner to the other side of the blunt arete. Hang out at a good stance and check out the finish of the route which has a couple of tough slab moves.

Perhaps the best warm up at Beer Trailer based on the jugs at the start of the route.

A tricky start up the flake feature leads into sustained technical climbing on small runnels, fingerlocks, and crimps. Trust those feet ;)

Equipped by Scott Curran and Clay Prasse

Fun/thin slab moves up top, with unusual chimney moves against the large tree to get onto the slab (doing this without the tree-chimney could be hard 5.12).

The slab currently (April-2019) sports a robust crop of lichen and would benefit greatly from some firm brushing.  Add a star after it cleans up...

Begin on a ledge and move up on large holds and big moves (but with bad feet), traversing left a bit at some point. Clip the bolt above the break and lay down on the ledge if you want. Head out and take on the line of scoop crimps that don't let up until some final tough moves gain a good hold.

Climb long moves between pockets up to the first bolt and begin an 8 move boulder problem. Get to the rest, and continue up 5.10+ crimping and flat jugs to the chains. Most start with the second clipped. The consensus grade is 13a on Red River climbing, but it remains 12d in guidebooks.

Locate a striking face climb on the far right side of beer trailer, a thoughtful start leads to a resting ledge thirty feet up, once recovered head up on techy crimp climbing to a thoughtful move getting to the anchor.  Pretty darn good route

Pull a hard move over a small bulge to gain the flaring hand crack. Continue up the crack as it trends right and then finishes up another small crack to the top.

Start with a funky boulder problem that will have you wrapped around the corner, trying not to get spit off the slabby face. If you do figure your way up to the break, prepare for another hard slab boulder that eventually eases into another break. A few additional easy slab moves reward you with the chains.

Super steep, and aesthetic, Darkness Falls is an eye catching route with impeccable rock, great movement, and very cool roof encounters.

Big holds lead to a shouldery boulder problem that ends with a huge jug.  A short section of classic Red River crimps gain a huge horizontal break below the first roof.  Follow the break out right, and muckle down on a few edges to gain a large horn over the roof, then make a big move to another large shelf.  Once recovered, motor up easier pockets to some generous holds below the final roof.  Follow the huge flake up and right, grab some slightly disappointing scoops past the lip and haul yourself over the roof and onto the head wall where better holds lead to the chains.

Begin with the same boulder problem as Morning Wood but after the 3rd bolt, move left to a differnt bolt line and anchor. Similar finish to Morning Wood but slightly lower quality.

Climb through the first four bolts with a few tough pulls separated by rests. Gain the large flake feature which is your last rest before the crux. Leave the comfort of the flake and pull on some small crimps with decent feet to reach good holds at a break in the wall. Look up at the anchors and wonder how you can get there. Traverse right to a set of jugs just right of the large crack. Traverse back left onto the face to the next break in the wall. Hopefully your partner has already hung a long sling on the anchor so you can clip. If not, you'll probably need to go back to the crack and use a pocket to reach the anchor. Be aware that this pocket will be soaking wet if the top of the crack is seeping (you should be able to check from the ground).

Originally graded 11c, this seems to have settled at 11d and will still feel tough for the grade until you find the right holds.

Begin with a few tough moves that lead to a fingerlock gaston and eventually deliver you to a good hold. Scope out the next section which involves several poor scoop pocket crimps. End this sequence with a large move to a series of good holds on a protruding feature. Rest up and climb decent holds to the anchor.

Pull off the ground through some intro moves into a hard boulder involving pinches, slopers, and crimps. Rest up at the break and fire into a second hard boulder, passing a tough clip and a series of directional pockets until the next break graciously offers some relief. Stay engaged through easier terrain to the chains.

Start on a jug or two and move up, bumping your left hand up a few times. Cruise up to a hard compression sequence before the break in the wall and bust out right to the jug. Crawl into the ledge if you want to. Head up on bad crimps and slopers (beta: right kneebar pad is very helpful here) and get into the crux sequence involving a right hand to a decent edge. Don't relax yet as you need to pull of a weird left hand pocket series to get to the next good hold. Easier climbing to the chains.

Climb the finger/hand crack up the short dihedral. If you catch it dry, it is probably still covered in moss and dirt.

start in a roof on a slopey undercling with a small edge on the left, keep the tension to do a few moves in a small roof to a desperate topout.

be careful- its a little chossy and might break on you

Climb easy terrain, trending left and up the flake before meeting up with a hard boulder problem. The FA seemingly went straight up on a V-hard boulder problem and graded it 13b. This beta felt way too hard for me. I managed to find a path just left of the bolt involving a left heel hook and a long reach that seemed to be around ~13a.

Climb up the crack in the dihedral to the roof and head straight left on decent slots and underclings. Pull around the corner into a stance to clip the anchors.

This route shares a bouldery start with Beers to You. At the jug after the 3rd bolt, break left and head into some compression runnel climbing. Set up for the final crux dyno and go big. The upper crux feels harder and lower percentage than Beers to You.

Climb the wide, overhanging dihedral to a ledge and clip the anchors on PBR Street Gang, or top out and rappel from a slung tree.  Consistant and engaging.

Another short but quality power route at Beer Trailer.

Stick clip the first bolt and launch into the crux involving a long first (or 2nd) move followed by a crux using a right handed 2 finger pocket.  A few more moves on better pockets lead to another boulder problem to gain the second bolt.  The climbing gets slightly easier which involves using a massive undercling before a few another bolt and the chains.  Slightly less quality than its neighbors to the left but more continuous.

see photo for a close up of some of the beginning holds on this route - i think the crux is between bolts one and two. Runout between the last bolt and the anchors.

Start in some bad rock and move up generally easy terrain to a break in the wall. You can crawl in here and lay down if you want. Make some long pulls above the break to get to the crux - use a couple decent crimps and a high foot to get to a better hold, then head to the anchors.

Find your way up the slopey ramp and launch right into a boulder problem. Rest at the horizontal break and then head into another bouldery section with a stopper move right at the last bolt.

Slabby face climb left of the arete, across the dihedral from Sluts Are Cool. Do some old school moves to get standing high on good holds, then figure out how to look taller then you are. Insert your card in the slot up high and strut out the store six-pack in hand.

This line starts with a very hard boulder problem off the deck, ending in a large hold just below a ledge. Continue up the route and stick the redpoint crux which is a long reach out left to a decent hold. Finish it up to the anchor.

This route is rated 12a in the guidebook but consensus seems to be 12b.

Moderate climbing on big holds through 2 bolts leads to a ledge.  Move right a bit to grab jugs over the lip of the roof, clip the third bolt and take a lay down rest before tackling the powerful crux using pinches, and possibly a knee bar and a dyno to a incut jug below the 4th bolt that is often wet.  From here, take the straight/rightward line of bolts on better holds but bigger moves through some steeper rock to the chains.

Some tough pulling off the ground ends with a large move to a jug near the 3rd bolt. Trend up and right on easier (but still pumpy) climbing. Share a hold or two near the anchor for Sluts are Cool before moving up and left to the anchor.

Start with a jug and undercling, or reach up to a good, in-cut left hand pocket. Power through a series of sharp crimps until you hit the undercling in the mini roof. Lock it down and launch up and left to a good slot. Continue up the pocketed face past one last tricky move and on to the chains.

Climb on relatively moderate terrain with a few tough pulls to reach a pair of matched good holds at the second bolt. Pick your method and punch it to a jug at the 3rd bolt. Climbing past the third bolt is probably the hardest move (hint: use either a right hand undercling or hand jam and make a long reach). Continuous crimping for the next few bolts delivers you to a break near the top of the wall. A couple punchy moves and you're at the anchor.

Originally graded 13c, this climb seems to be settling at hard 13a or easy 13b.

The most bouldery, and least sustained of the three mid 12s on the wall. Some intro climbing leads to a lay-down rest (pitch 1). Once recovered, set up on some crimps above the ledge to begin some long pulls to a final sloper ledge rest. You can also tic-tac through some not-so-good edges. This is the “groove crimping” bolt length. Finally, come up with some trickery for the final boulder guarding the chains. Movement is just as good as Hangover, but the rock still needs some cleaning up. Felt harder than Highlife.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Beer Trailer Crag