This climb starts as a slab climb, crosses a left-facing dihedral, and goes up the steep but featured face.

The climb has two distinct cruxes at bulges at bolt six and bolt eight.

Back to Bucket Country

Noxious Invasives

Walk on the Wild Side

Five Days One Summer

Priests are Perverts, Too

Mountainside Hipsters (aka Aspen Fantasy Land)

Walking the Board

Madiera Beach

Surfaris

Pipeline

Phipps' Gardens

Mavericks

Lucky Groove

Gypsie Fire

Middle Staircase

Intoxica

Fun Button aka Muscle Beach

Chivalry is Dead

Rip Chords

Safari Winch Ride

Alien Dave

Moral Hangover AKA  Can Man

Telstar

Practice Slabs

Monkey and the Engineer

The climb is friction/smearing up a smooth slab.  It is more typical of granite slab climbing than other routes on the Beehive.

The crux is smearing with thin edges for fingers between bolts one and two.

A second crux is at another slab between bolts 5 and 8, if you climb directly up the bolts.

This is more sustained than most other moderate Beehive routes.

The crux is winding up and around the roof. It is a bit chossy and dirty, but what route at the Beehive isn't? This is a fun warm-up route.

This is a route set for aspiring leaders looking to gain exposure and experience on multi-pitch.  All the holds are there and the bolts are placed for the short person.

Awesome route! The first pitch is a cruiser (5.7+, very well-bolted). The second pitch is where the real fun starts (some exposure). Also, you can't see your partner for 70% of climb.

This has pretty straightforward and enjoyable climbing. Leave a directional for the last bolt if toproping.

Per

ryan laird

: this is the second bolted line that starts about 20 feet to the right of the obvious, right-facing dihedral. Pass the short steep section on good holds, stay right of the massive scaled-flake scar, and trend left at the top for a more continuous finish to the perched anchor about 10 feet left of the huge ledge anchor. This is the uncensored route name to the Devil's Tower route, "Rangers are Perverts Too."

This route lies to the left of a large hole in the rock. It is a fun line. Climb a left-facing corner and follow to the left side of the large, overhanging bulge.

The crux is at the fourth bolt, a series of balancy smears, more typical of granite face climbing than other routes on Beehive.  The Voo guide describes them as "tricky footwork."

There are three high step moves to get to the crux, all 5.8/5.9.

Start on a short, pocketed face, then climb through a series of shelves on solid, grippy rock. Surmount a bulge and finish at bolted anchors.  It appears that one set of anchor bolts has been previously removed, but there's another set up there.

From Arlo N.: This climb goes up to a pair of bolts to the right of the Monkey and Engineer bolts. These are set up to rappel off of a 1 foot wide ledge which is the top of the flake. The flake is hollow sounding and upon inspection, it has a crack all along the bottom of the flake. It's possible to clip the anchors without touching the ledge, and to start the rappel from a ledge to the left while facing the rock face.

Surfaris is a wandering route with a pair of short ascending traverses (first left and then back right). I thought it was fun and unique, not your standard sport route.

Scramble up easy 5th class terrain for several bolts, and then head left, making a few steep moves on good holds to gain an interesting and exposed ramp. The left-trending ramp leads to an easy traverse back to the right via a horizontal finger crack and good feet. The crux is getting up the final awkward corner to the last bolt.

Pipeline has a great little opening move and plenty of cool 5.7/8 moves.

This shares the first three bolts with

Telstar

but stays left over some slab, then a small roof/corner, and back right to the

Telstar

anchors.

Body Karate Roof was the formerly open roof project at Beehive Buttress. It is the only line of bolts that go directly out the only prominent roof at Beehive Buttress. Access this roof problem by climbing one of the 5.7 sport routes below it.

Eds. Per

Ken Duncan

, this route may be the same as ??; however, the rating differences submitted make this not entirely obvious. The submissions are combined here onto the 1st submission's page, as is our normal routine.

Per

bart cubrich 1

: start on

Gypsy Fire

, then head straight up the roof (crux), and finish up the techy slab climbing. Don't be fooled by the bolts to the right after the roof moves, the route goes straight up. This route is actually pretty sweet for The Beehive, even though it is basically one move of 5.12.

The crux is at the fifth bolt.  If you go straight up at the bolt, it is harder than 5.5.  It is easier if you step to the right.

This is a fun climb.  Start at the left-most low bolt on the main wall of the beehive, just left of

Mountainside Hipsters

.  Continue straight up with nice hands and feet for 5 or so bolts and climb the staircase right to the anchors (which are shared with

MH

and

Lucky Groove

).

Per

Arlo F Niederer

: other routes have been squeezed in to the left, so the description of the location is different now.  It is between "

Alien Dave

" and "Intoxica".

The crux is the overhang at the sixth bolt.

There are secondary cruxes at the third and seventh bolts.

The crux is the very first move; really fun! Solid 5.9 climbing until the end. The last 10 feet/"ledge" feels like a water slide (sans water).

This is a fun climb that starts off with power and quickly transforms to fine balance for those under 5'10".  Taller people will find this more like a 5.9+.  The crux is at the 3rd-4th bolts.

This is more continuous and consistent than other easy routes at Beehive.

Climb a straightforward face to a shelf with a short, cruxy, very slightly overhanging face. Continue up well-featured rock, past the scissor-jack (off of the left), and on to the anchors.

This is a super stellar route that follows a black water streak up with a sequential, balance crux for the last two or three bolts. It is very exciting. This is one of the most enjoyable routes at the Beehive. There is an option at the top to continue up for a second pitch if you choose, not bad at all....

Climb the roof above the

Fun Button/Muscle Beach

anchors at the crack utilizing a tough mantel. Continue up the somewhat runout face above and slightly left to anchors.

Telstar may be the best route at Beehive. Start at a right-angling water groove/handrail shared with

Pipeline

.

P1. 5.10c/d. Climb the right-angling handrail past 3 bolts. Place a long sling on the third bolt, then diagonal right following bolts heading over two bulges to anchors. Pipeline (5.9) continues up the left line of bolts.

The crux is at the second bulge.

These are a group of bolted lines that are a great place to take someone for their first lead. None of the routes seem to be harder than 5.4 for the first pitch. They're all pretty low angle and can be bushy. Many of the routes are multi-pitch routes. If the rest of the Beehive is crowded, these routes may be open.

This is a sport climbing route with a series of steep bulges with a few harder moves on each one of them.  There is easier climbing in between.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Beehive Buttress