After the no-hands rest at the anchors of

Sound the Klaxon

, head up and right on good holds as the rock steepens. A difficult lip encounter guards the easier climbing to the top.

Lobsterian (Extension to Sound the Klaxon)

Underneath a Red Moon

Erectile Dysfunction

The Long Hard Dry Spell

American Dream

Right Hand Rosie

13th Donut (Extension to Twelve Tasty Donuts)

Twelve Tasty Donuts

A Place Where I Can Hide

Buckshot

Amenema

Vapor Trails

Baker’s Dozen (link-up of Sounding the Klaxon into 13th Donut)

Sound the Klaxon

Climb slightly overhanging rock using jugs, slopers, sidepulls, and some less positive holds. The crux is probably between bolts three and four; good footwork helps.

After bolt five the angle eases to slightly less than vertical. The chains are just before the overhanging rock above the route.

Climb left of the black water streak. Long sustained and quality route. Has pockets.

A very short 1-2 move wonder pulling the roof. A fun warmup for other routes in the area. 11c in the guidebook. I felt it was soft for the grade.

Kind of dirty climbing until you pull a very thin crimpy bulge/roof. Tough clip for shorter people. Pull the roof up to a good jug, then it's easy as you trend up and right.

This route is phenomenal, a must do for sure!  Climb gently overhanging rock for about 45' and try and conserve your energy.  The crux comes a little past halfway where the angle kicks back a few more degrees and the holds get smaller.  If your super pumped after the crux then watch out or the next few moves might get you.

From the no-hands stance at the anchors of The

Twelve Tasty Donuts

, continue up on steepening rock to some worse-than-they look cruxy holds at the lip. Better holds above the lip lead to the anchors.

Climb slightly less than vertical rock past a large, volleyball-sized cobble to the fourth bolt (it looks almost like you could sit on the large cobble).

Continue up more difficult, somewhat overhanging rock through another couple of bolts; the angle eases before the chains.

Face climbing followed by stemming on less-than-vertical terrain, followed by some exciting stemming under an overhang (it's hard to call it a roof because it is so rounded.) The chains are just above the overhang.

There is a fair amount of loose material on this route and we liberated several baseball-sized stones as well as a number of marble-sized pieces. The loosest section is runout about fifteen feet; fortunately the climbing through the section is fairly easy stemming. The only anxiety arises from looking down between your legs and thinking that you're getting kind of far from the previous bolt.

Fun, on-your-feet climbing up a very blunt arete of sorts. Hard to see/find holds make this a bit pumpier than your standard 5.9. A fun bulge encounter on big holds at the tops leads to anchors way off to the left.

Long, slightly overhanging route on the left side of The Matrix.  Crux is about 3/4 up where the grade steepens and you have to work out a technical sequence of crimpers and small side-pulls.  Take advantage of the marginal rest before the crux - you'll need it!

Straight forward climbing up dishes and cobbles to an obvious downward-facing "molar cobble" at the bulge. Pull bouldery moves over the bulge on relatively small holds to bigger holds to the top.

The route is new as of early June 2018 so use caution on suspect holds and expect it to be a bit dirty for a while.

Forgettable start leads to a fun mini-roof pull. Holds to make it past the roof stump a lot of people, but they're there.

Climb Sounding the Klaxon 10b into the 13th Donut.  Equally fun alternative start instead of starting with Twelve Tasting Donuts 10c, although use it’s anchor to start into extension.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Matrix