An extremely peaceful highball! Go up the arete and shift over to the left face once you are towards the top. I fully encourage taking a deep breath and almost having a meditative experience with this climb, it’s very peaceful with the ocean crashing behind you and just the overall easy movement and wonderful surroundings of this Boulder.

Sea Shanty

piece 0-cake

Flake Out

Blade Runner

Borderline

Web Crawler

fun little boulder just around the corner from blade runner.low start in the middle most crack. let you figure it out from there. lots of fun crash pad recomend. the tide shouldn't be a problem low tide recommend.

Sit Start is mandatory for this given its short length.  This short but satisfying route has 3-4 moves that follows the flake on a boulder with a slight over hang. The crux is the second move, getting setup on the flake that stands out on the boulder to the right of Web Crawler. 

  Sticking to just this boulder, the crack is a satisfying mix of face climbing and lay back.

start to the right as far as you can go before the drop into the water, sit start & work your way around the arrete along the little roof and around the corner where you pull to a mantle top out..a pumpy route that has an awesome finger jam. The crux lies on the roof as you have to fall into an over head matched crimp

This route is found south of the lighthouse at the property line of the park.(note the fence post at the top in the pictures) It’s not a super hard wall to Free Climb but the pitch and height definitely get the blood flowing good!null

This climb starts at the edge, overlooking the water, and in a small crevass.  It has some consequence if you fell, given that you would tumble out onto a terrible fall onto sharp rocks. 

  The reason this is even notable, is that it is so much fun, and a great selection of various holds and cracks, and a sustained climb of about 10-14 feet.

In the off days of spotting German U-Boats I'm sure the soldiers of the WW2 era had plenty of time to do some bouldering of their own. This park encompasses some of Maine's rugged coastline with picturesque views of Portland Headlight and Portland. The bouldering here, like any spot on the Maine coast, is a plethora of opportunites to set new routes or climb old ones. There's a few bolted lines here spotted around the parking lot cliffs just to the side of the lighthouse and the main parking lot. Kind of run out and spotty anchoring, you may need to rap to investigate the quality of the bolts prior to hanging on them. This is right on the ocean so keep in mind the tides and make sure your belayer has a good anchor as well so no one goes for a swim :)

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Fort Williams / Portland Head Light