You start on the arete as low as you can possibly can, and then you move right and go straight up the crack to top out.

The Nutcracker

Rumors Right

Rumors Roof

Beginner's Route

Happy Hooker

Afterburner

Levitation

Block Direct

Beginner's Arete

Balls

The Groove

Chode Route

balls is directly to the left of nutcracker, it starts as low as you can on the arete. from there you work your way up then make a small traverse in the middle, then top out.

In the middle top of the cliff you will see a large V slot. Rumors Right starts at the base of the cliff right of this V slot and trends up left and exits through it.

Starts a few feet left of Rumors Right, stays left then merges with Rumors Right and exits through the V-notch

Follow large edges up the face to a small tree at the lip. I have only bouldered/soloed this. It is easy, but committing, not one you can just hop off of.

Happy Hooker ascends the steep face on the far left side of the crag. The true line (although somewhat contrived) does not use the large block to the left but stays exclusively to the main wall. After a bouldery start, big moves between large holds make up the middle section. Make a few technical moves towards the top to finish it out.

This is the second route on the wall if counting from the left. Afterburner starts on large jugs and trends slightly right up overhanging rock to a mediocre rest about halfway up. Make a few moves to go nearly horizontal. The crux move is a long reach over the lip of the roof. After sticking the crux, finish through the top on big holds and ledges.

This route shares a start with Rumors. You'll climb straight up and move to the right of the small roof. The crux is next to the roof, Its pretty crimpy here. There is a left hand cross over here which is pretty tough. Once you're done with the that section you just glide up to the top. If you fall you'll swing out pretty far and have to start over the route.      This route can be done trad, but i wouldn't recommend it. I've seen a couple of people do it this way, but with the route being so short one piece failing could mean you hitting the ground.

Starts off the block on the left side of the crag. Traverse out to right then up via same line as Happy Hooker.

Start on the ledge to the right of Beginner's Route, working upward keeping the right hand on/around the arete. Optionally traverse left at the crack near the top to stay closer to your anchor.

Starts under a little block.. Get around this and into the slot/squeeze. Follow this feature to the top. Good warm up for the overhanging routes.

Starts crouched in the right side of the cave by "The Groove" off a jug out a small roof to a finger crack then straight up the face left of Beginner's Route

Short blocky over-hanging cave like cliff found behind the historical Allenbrook house. It only has a hand full of routes but they are fun to toprope, and better than going to a gym(some might disagree). The routes are pumpy and sustained with few rests.The routes can be a little muddy after a heavy rain or during the off season due to low traffic. I've never seen or heard of anyone leading these routes, but anything is possible. There is also some bouldering on top of the cliff and south down the river.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Allenbrook