This route was put up by myself and Emily Conway on January 2nd, 2009 with the idea to have a great beginer rock climb with good protection, well spaced but not obnoxiously close bolts that were easy to clip from stances, fun holds, and good rock.  The climb starts by surmounting a medium-sized block to gain a no hand stance to clip the first bolt, and then pleasant climbing up water sculpted grey holds via fun sequences that would be good for a five five leader.  While this route is not world class, it does add an easy climb to a great area and would be a good first lead for the aspiring climber.

You Were Meant For Me

Dancin`  Shoes

Bleeding Purple

My Versailles Guy

Hicks, Hillbillies, Hobos

Louis XIV

Welcome to Shelf Road

Aerial Solution

Loves Me Like a Rock

Overture 1383

Ethics? What Ethics?

Work the jug holds up and left following the short crack up to a ledge (cruxy) that had boulders on the F.A. Follow the generous bolt line up the prow which is sustained to midroute where the grade drops off with nice hand and foot holds to the anchors.

Start by a sidepull with a little stem on top and slap that hole to get the first bolt.  The crux for me was after the second bolt (stay right).

Climb the black slab past 3 clips to the vertical blonde face to the anchors.

Scramble up to C1. Climb near the flakey arête to C3 with some tricky feet. Move up past C4 on big holds to the anchors.

Start just right of

Aerial Solution

. Climb the corner past 3 clips to a spacious stance. Move straight up on the nice face for 2 clips to the chained anchors.

Begin with a vertical, cruxy start on nice rock to big pockets. Move left to clip C3 with some sustained sidepulls, crimps, and tricky feet to C4. Move straight up past C5 to the anchors.

This route is located at the end of The Bank, past the 2150 Wall.  It is the last route on the Bank's southwest face with red hangers.  Follow a crack system with locks and liebacks.  Pumpy moves with poor feet will get you to the anchors.

Aerial Solution is a fun climb between Back to the Future and 2150 Wall, about 100 feet left of 2150 Wall and 60 feet left of the route

Primal Scream

(5.9+ arete). It climbs a wall split by horizontal crack at 1/3 height, just right of short, ledgy, left-facing corner. This fun, powerful for the grade route, climbs with reaches from decent, sometimes slopey holds up to the anchors.

Climb the lefty flakes to a stance on top of the flakes to C2. Then grab big holds with some tricky feet up to the anchors.

This is an interesting route which has a high crux.  The withering stress you put on your knuckles is offset by the delicacy of the footwork.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 09. Ethics? What Ethics?