Enter the dihedral, and float up using feet and holds on the left to the base of the crack, 10c.

Jam the crack, at the wideness. Use a hidden foothold on left side, and if you are tall, a long reach to foot on right with additional right foot higher up. Gain the top of the crack on the left side by pinching the the horn 10c with tape, harder without tape.

Past a stance, continue with traverse in a right-leaning crack, a #3 or #2 Camalot is a nice addition here. Continue traversing the crack a short way until the crack starts to go around corner & offers a good sinker. Place a good Alien or similar, find small feet/smear, and using an undercling, walk upir feet up high until you can slap the horizontal feeling around for the crack that you will want to put another Alien into. Step left to gain this ledge, 10c. Continue up short crack on left using large out of sight flake on the right to 2 bolt anchor.

Swat Team

Middle Earth

From a ledge, go up easy, broken blocks until below a corner and crack system and a small roof. Below the roof, the crack is incipient, so you must start on the arete on the left side, then traverse back right to the crack. Continue up the crack to a 2 bolt anchor.

## Caution, there is a 1'x 1' block on ledge below anchors that is loose but LOOKs totally solid ##.

For pitch 2, go up to roof on left, then traverse out right through cracks in an airy traverse. After about ~25', you will be able to go up a dihedral* with some cracks in it for gear, 10b. At easier ground, find the 2 bolt anchor 20' up.

Or continue the traverse for another 15' into the head wall and find the tight crack in the dihedral above your head. Put good gear in this crack and launch up with good heel or toe hook on the left to gain the ledge, 10d or 11a.

One can also pass the tight crack above and enter wide crack 5' further to the right that goes straight up, we did not climb this one as the wide gear was used up.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Palace