One of the best at Safe Harbor. Granted it is short, but there is no fluff on this route. 

  Start at the base of the crack and diagonal up and left using underclings, laybacks and the occassional jam to a pair of cold shuts.  

  Use caution getting to the second bolt. From bolt 1 to 2 the climbing is mid to hard 5.11 and you could hit the ground if you blow it.

Blood Sugar Magic

Copperhead Road

Blood Sugar Magic Direct  Start

Bomb Free Harbor

Start directly under the second bolt of Blood Sugar Magic (a crash pad is nice). Climb straight up to 2nd bolt on small edges and sides pulls. Do remaining route of Blood Sugar Magic

If only this was longer.  Start in a mini dihedral and follow a seam toward some horizontals near the top.  Moving toward the last bolt is the crux

Bouldery start to the second draw, then pull the ledge and finish at the anchors underneath the bush

Climbs around the difficult Blood Sugar Magic (5.12a) in Safe Harbor South.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in b. Blood Sugar Magic Sector