This climbs the left-leaning corner/crack on the far right side of  the North Face.

Circus, Circus

Icy, But Not Too Dicey

Nutcracker

Anniversary Special

False Prophet

Black Ice

Circus

Event Horizon

The Ayatollah

Bush Eviction

Bush League

Retirement

Space Odyssey

False Lieback

Horror-zontal Terror-verse

Lil Squirt

Thin Ice

Originally rated 11a on TR, this fine route is in the middle of the "amphitheater" on the upper north face. The climb begins as a thin crack that tapers to a seam where the first of three closely spaced bolts occurs. Powerful tips liebacking and high steps lead to the top. Clipping the bolts is tenuous / strenuous! Great rock - three out of five stars.

Start in the same spot as

Black Ice

and

Thin Ice

, on top of a 20-foot high bolder than leans against the main cliff. Step up onto a ledge about three feet off the large boulder (as for

Black Ice

and

Thin Ice

). Climb up and right along an easy, left-facing flake to its top. Make some unprotected friction moves above the flake to reach the summit.

This climbs a crack to a chimney about 20' right of "Event Horizon".

This a good quality, somewhat runout thin face route.

This climbs the thin flake to the right of "False Lieback".

Very short 1 bolt climb, approx 20 feet right of False Prophet (uses same start).

This fun, easy crack is on the northwest corner of the rock, below the cap.

Descend to the right, 3rd class. Alternatively, rap from rings next to Ayatollah. Walk to the top of the formation, continue along the ridge passing the anchors for Ayatollah, and look to your left for the rap station.

This climbs the left edge of the Northeast Face, past horizontals and face past a bolt.

Left of False Layback, start up a crack system immediately left of the dihedral. A combination of side pulls or fist jams can be used on this route. Once you reach a horizontal crack, use balance move to stand on it, then go up the large flake. Once the large flake starts getting thicker, make your way right again for more fist jams. Continue until you reach a small roof, traverse left and back to the rock face and go up a few feet. Large ledge on top. Optional variation (5.10c) if you start on your left side, directly underneath the large flake.

This is a Direct Start to Bush Eviction.  Begin about 20 feet right of Nutcracker and climb past a bolt to reach the crack of Bush Eviction.

Climb a thin crack to the left of  "Nutcracker", then up past horizontal cracks and face with a bolt.

Climb the first crack of "Nutcracker", then up the face past a bolt.

This climbs the big right-facing corner  on the Northeast Face.

This unique route traverses the amphitheater-like feature on Cap Rock. It starts on the left and follows a seam up and right past a bolt. It finishes with a steep exit move at a vertical crack below the "cap" of Cap rock. The gear is PG, not as bad as the name implies.

Short slab climb. Starts off a very thin flake up to 1st bolt then moves left on the face to the second bolt then up to easier face climbing. There are bolted rap anchors on top set way back that you can use if you extend them.

Start in the same spot as

Black Ice

, on top of a 20-foot high boulder than leans against the main cliff. Step up onto a ledge about three feet off the large boulder (as for

Black Ice

). Climb straight up the black face directly above, keeping about 10 feet right of

Black Ice

and 6-8 feet left of

Icy, But Not Too Dicey

(the easy flake to the right).

Description

Protection

Routes in Cap Rock - North Face