The opening few moves are thin.  A little higher was a strech move to gain the only bolt at about 20 feet up. Climb easy ledges to the crack another 20 feet up and sink some gear. Bring a sling and you can equalize several cams. Climb easy knobs and ledges above, merging with "Ankles Away", sharing the same anchor. (Note: This is how I climbed the route. I didn't see anchors for this route specifically, though the Croft/Lewis book shows anchors.)

A good spicy challenge in the otherwise heavily bolted hills.  Take great care not to break holds to avoid long falls.

Original Route

Holy Shiite, Muslim!

Escuche Vaca Heard

Leonosphere

Lafayette in America

Ankles Away

Hoodgie

Voie des Grenoblois

High quality face climbing that is well protected.

Wide crack that is a little loose in spots.  Still worth the effort.

From the top of the crack, step right and climb a face past the last 2 bolts of Ankles Away to a bolted anchor.

Start by laybacking to the left a short flake.This opening move is the physical crux. From there climb up to chain+ring top anchor shared with the sport route to the left. To enjoy the easier fun stuff above, without first struggling through the difficult start, one can access the route by aid or by climbing Leonosphere, then  lowering down into this route to just above the layback flake.

Start through the obvious round hueco  about eight feet left from the left edge of the north face. Climb up over the hueco, then diagonal right to the ridge  between the east face and north face. Continue climbing up the ridge curving slightly right to a chain anchor.

warning: Since this route is new as of 2016, expect loose rock and breaking holds. The belayer or other persons should not stand anywhere near underneath the route.

Excellent, steep face climbing at a moderate grade.  NOT a sport route--only 4 bolts protect the route.

Contributor's note: I have NOT led this route.  It is possible to traverse right from the anchor atop Ankles Away (easy 5th class) in order to set up a top-rope.  Don't miss this high quality route!

Chipped footholds and larger chipped handholds near solid positive flakes. This route was reportedly previously soloed by locals.

Description

Protection

Routes in Hoodgie Wall