Start just right of Jungle Blues From Jupiter. Climb up to a short right-facing corner and then follow a series of bulges finishing with some sustained face climbing. An excellent pitch.

Description from

vainokodas.com/climbing/cor…

used with permission.

The Caterer

Be Here Now

Rock Odyssey

Interzone

The Host

Killing in the Name

Divination

Freedom

The Vaino Step

AAArete

Weenie Roast

Standard Route

Drop Zone

Hunky Monkey

Time Traveler

Lost in Tradslation

Take the Power Back

China Doll

Autumn

Podophobia

Dyno Arête

China Doll's Voyage (Link up of China Doll P1 into Earth Voyage P2)

Archangel

China Doll (P1-2, free)

Knowoneness

Strange Cargo

Naked Lunch

Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route)

Shunyata

Fright Grooves

Outta This World

Earth Voyage

Rush

Primal Cinema

Technical Remote Viewing

Divination Direct

Jungle Blues From Jupiter

Boy's World

Life on Mars

Long Dong Dihedral

Disneyland

Raise the Titanic

Awakenings

Crazy Wisdom

Zentropa

Wide Crack

Spiders From Mars

Dynamometer

Shape Shifters

Rage Against The Machine

Variation to Hunky Monkey (last 2 pitches of Only a Dreamer?)

Light of Day

Long Dong with Zentropa Finish

Night Grooves

Signs of Life

This is a worthwhile trad pitch, with a little more climbing than its partner,

Jungle Blues

. While these pitches are fun, they probably did not provide commensurate challenges for the highpowered FA team.

Climb the initial corner of

Jungle Blues

which someone on this site calls 10a while Rolofson calls it 11a. If you want to do this short climb in one pitch, back clean the gear below the roof and set up a bomber directional for the second above the roof. Once above the roof, traverse right easily until at the base the prominent, right-facing SFM corner.  Rolofson recommends belaying here, but I recommend continuing.  The move getting into the corner involves passing a somewhat tricky small bulge with micro pro.  From here, the corner steepens with a crux about where you'd expect it.  There is good gear through the crux.  Above the corner, surmount a pedestal, briefly contemplate with dismay the licheny, vertical, blank face above you, then step left into the easy left-facing exit corner of

Jungle Blues

.  After about 20', step right onto a ledge with rap bolts.

This route climbs to the right of

Time Traveler

.  The easiest way to start is to rap 100 feet to a ledge below the anchors at the bottom of T.T.  A 200 foot rope will just make it - knot the ends of the rope.  Head up the slab and follow the left bolt line (2 bolts) to a corner system found above.  Jam this crack until it is possible to pull up onto the slab on the left.  Follow more bolts (2-3) through the thin slab until you reach the bolt anchor of

T.T

.

Warm up on P1, then think laterally on the next couple of interesting, tenuous, challenging  pitches. Combine P2 and 3, belaying at a couple of 1/4 inch bolts, before heading around the corner. The  final pitch is slightly manky, a one-move wonder which can easily be yarded through (I should know!) But  pretty cool working through the big roof. Can rap down

Divination

with a single 60 meter.

Begin this route at the top of the pitch one of

Rock Odyssey

(at the ledge). Just left of

Awakenings

pitch two, sling a horn and climb just right of the arête and follow a vegetated system 5.7 to the right side of the obvious roof (or climb

Naked Lunchs

10- pitch to the belay below its crux pitch). Jam out and right of the roof and stem up the steep dihedral (crux). Where

Naked Lunch

joins in and busts left, continue straight up the next hanging system. After the difficulties, step left and belay at the anchors atop pitch 5 of

Naked Lunch

or continue to the top.

Begin about 10' right of

Rage Against the Machine

and 15' left of

Jungle Blues from Jupiter

. There's a better photo of the route under the entry for "

The Vaino Step

." Follow a line of 5 bolts up a moderate .10b face toward an arete on the right. The 6th bolt is drilled into sloping ledge under a large roof. Undercling the roof, then clip the 7th bolt from a chalky, 3/4" edge. Stretch or dyno from the 3/4" edge to a left hand jam in an abrasive crack (strenuous), and work your feet up crystals until you can reach a fin on the right. Clip the 8th bolt (a difficult clip with ledge-fall potential if you skip it), and struggle over the lip of the overhang on mediocre holds. The anchors are a few feet up to the right. Lower 60' from links.

The 15' of climbing from the ledge to the anchors is sustained with several moves of .11c or .11c/d. Tape or a spider mitt will save some skin on your left hand.

This route is all the way to the left side of Wake Up Wall.  Start near a wee little tree.  The belay is perched on a hanging slab, so it's not a bad idea to build an anchor for the belayer with the big cams you don't need on the climb.  Balance up, clip a bolt, then pull through the crux bulge.  Then another bulge then some flaring stuff to the two bolt anchor.  This seems much easier than an Eldo 5.9 (say Emerald City for example...).  Decent climbing though, with options for more close by.

Start just right of

Autumn

. The first bolt looks high, but the route actually starts by traversing in from the right, a mellow proposition for anyone capable of climbing the remainder of the route.

P1. The first  pitch is the best - excellent and sustained, with several small roofs. At about 100 feet, a somewhat uncomfortable belay provides a rest.

P2. The second pitch climbs up and left, then back to the right, with only  one difficult move.

P3. Third pitch is more of a scramble, and pulls an awkward roof.

This is a reasonably nice 10a midway up Lost Angel wall. Start halfway up the trail as for Dyno Arete. Crux  move is probably 10a, dihedral a 9-9+ish and the remainder pretty easy.

The climb starts by stepping over a few small bushes, pulling up on some easy stuff, and then stepping up onto a nice little point. Then you sidepull and make your first clip about 15 ft. above the ground to the left. Don't go too far right (the holds disappear). Now for the one move wonder crux move. Slap around left until you get reasonably solid (no good feet here). Move a little left, slap again and you'll get a good hold. Then move on up. Next clip is above and to the right. Proceed up the dihedral generally bearing right. If a clip looks to be far left, it is (that's Dyno Arete). All the clips for this are to the right. Work up the dihedral for about 3  clips and then make a beeline right. 4-5 more clips along a gradually ascending right-hand traverse.  Tops out to two hangers above a 12. You can rap back down/lower here. It's hard to clean the route since it makes almost a 90-degree turn from the dihedral.

You can continue with Escape from Freedom (works up a large flake with a single bolt -- 5.5/5.6 easy climb) and then across a traverse with no pro (you can slap a #1 Camalot in above the traverse). Then work your way up to the slab after the traverse (nasty nasty when wet).  A small Alien might fit in the crack here. I got one or two in. Then just walk up the ramp for very easy 5.5-5.6 trad climbing. Pro off to the left. Finish for this is above Zentropa I think. You can also make a left-hand turn up to another set of hangers (#2 protects this well) and then lead a nifty sport 5.10c up to your right. Or you can climb the gully to the left for super simple 5.0 style trad and top out.

Start on the arete just left of the right-facing corner (Jungle Blues From Jupiter). Stick clip the first bolt and make a series of difficult moves to join The Host.

Description from

vainokodas.com/climbing/cor…

used with permission.

Climb the clean arete just left of Boy's World.  Sustained delicate face and slab climbing.  Fun moves, airy position.  A great addition to this area!

This is another little trad line on the right side of Lost Angel.  Weird name...till you go when it's too warm.  It's submitted due to a clarification effort on this area.

Follow a right-facing dihedral to the right of Disneyland past a couple steeper bits.  You can belay at 90 ft. Continue up to the point where you can go right (easier) or left (steeper) crux with good jams.  Best to face right.  A bit scratchy.  On the lighter side of a star. 0.83 stars.

Start on a ledge about 50' right and up from Boy's World.  This is about 20' uphill from the big pine tree next to the rock.  Climb past some steep overlaps, then angle left and up to the anchor.  A thin slab move by the 5th bolt is the crux.

Drop Zone is located on the Wake Up Wall of Lost Angel. The route follows a fun arete on great rock with good pro.  Begin about 15 feet to the right of the obvious dihedral of Jungle Blues.

Start with a tricky move on steep rock (crux), this will be safer for tall people who can clip the 1st bolt before commiting to the move. Cruise on up the arete moving to its left side and making some slab moves. Near the end of the route enter a shallow dihedral and make a move up and left to the anchor at 90'.

Hunky Monkey starts out of the bank of the creek in the right-facing dihedral right of the first pitch of

Autumn

and just left of the first pitch of

Divination

(more specifically just left of the direct start to

Divination

).

P1: climb a right-facing dihedral to ledge (.10d, 12 bolts - ~ 90').

P2: go straight off of belay up into short, right-facing dihedral to large, left-sloping ledge (.10d, ~6 bolts - ~ 50').

P3: continute up the large, left-sloping ledge to black-streaked bolted headwall, climb intricately up the headwall to hands/fingers crack, go over the headwall into a scoop, and make delicate face moves above to anchor on the prow (.11b/c, 9 bolts - ~ 90').

P4: strike out along a prow to left-facing dihedral and onto steep headwall above (.10d/.11a, 6 bolts - ~60').

A 70m rope is questionable for a rap.  It is better to bring 2 ropes or walkoff.

Presently, it needs further cleaning on upper pitches.  After some usage, this will be a Dream Canyon classic.

This one is the third farthest left route on Zen Garden Wall (or second to the right, just right of the shiny bolts of Night Grooves.  Zen Garden is the far left and upper part of Lost Angel, which you access from up high: scramble down gully to large tree with 2 bolt anchor opposite the tree. Cruise up the perfect hand/finger crack as it gets smaller and turns to seam above...then to blank face with 2 bolts until you reach anchor (~60 feet). You can TR 5 other cracks to the right of this one from the anchor...fun area to practice jamming and slabs....

Begin in a right-facing corner about 15 feet left (downhill) of

Signs of Life

. Follow cracks up to a roof which is turned on the right (awkward; good gear). Finish with the last 20 feet of

Signs of Life

(2 bolts) to its anchor.

The start is one way to begin

Zentropa

to the left. Roughly the middle third of this route was previously unclimbed.

This is an enjoyable pitch just to the right of Killing in the Name, and on a par with that line in difficulty.

China Doll IV 5.9 A3+ (nearly C3+)

The exact details of the FA are unknown to me, but I believe this line is as described below based upon the fixed equipment on the route and the information from Rossiter's Dream Canyon/Boulder Canyon guide. This is an obscure but compelling aid line up the middle of Lost Angel. It follows the prominent, right-arching dihedral. Apparently attempts have been made to free some, if not all, of this route. Bring at least a gallon of water if done in the summer. It comes into the sun about 1pm.

Likely this route will go clean.

We were only 2 pins away.

IF YOU DON'T WANT BETA, PLEASE READ NO FURTHER. Otherwise, here's the poop:

P1. There are probably at least 3 possible starts for the first pitch. You can follow the most direct line up the first pitch of Earth Voyage past 5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. This requires a brief bit of 5.9 climbing to the 1st bolt, then a cam or two and a hook move about mid pitch, and high-stepping the bolts to reach a small ledge. Alternatively, you can do a bit of free climbing with the 1st pitch of Archangel 5.9 past 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor just R of Earth Voyage's 1st anchor. Finally, a line of more traditional features lies between these starts and can finish on either anchor,

C2

. 50 feet.

P2. This pitch can be combined with P1. Start up the prominent R-facing dihedral reminiscent of Yosemite. Use a tenuous hook move early and then small cams to .33 Alien, Lowe balls, fixed bashies, a fixed pin, modern bolts, stoppers/RP to gain the modern, Fixe, 2-bolt anchor with ring plus old 1/4" bolt anchor at a semi-hanging belay. This is a pretty pitch,.

C2+,

50 feet. There is a possible cam hook placement attempted that blew about 1/3 the way up this pitch.

P3. This pitch continues up the same dihedral sans modern bolts. The crack in the dihedral widens a bit. We used a #3 and #4 Camalot to start; however, a wider cam (#4.5) might fill the crack tighter. Then smaller to mid size cams, Lowe ball(s), a bashie, a hook move around an awkward bit leads you to where Rock Odyssey crosses the route out a roof. Here we used a knifeblade just before the buttonhead and Star-driven 1/4" bolt with single-biner-hole-Leeper hanger semi-hanging belay, A2+,

nearly C2+

, 80 feet.

P4. This is where the route gets significantly more funky and feels like a traverse. The roof overhangs the dihedral significantly here and keeps the rock from getting cleaned. The slab below the dihedral sheds exfoliative flakes. The rock in the corner has a much wilder feel to it. High-step up off the belay (gotta trust those tiny bits of metal) to a #0.5 Camalot placement, then sigh a bit at a medium wire placement. At that point, there is a flare that blew a #1 Friend placement and prompted us to utilize a LA in crumbly rock. Aid masters may find obvious clean placements that escaped us. Then, utilize the roof crack with a #1 Camalot and then a smaller cam. Then tie off the fixed partially driven LA. Hook here to gain small cam placements. Then move right with 3 cams on top of a large rounded flake. Here, excavation of 4 hook placements yielded tenuous edges at the crux here. It may be possible to free climb here for those desiring the switch. A few more cam placements bring you to a cramped, pigeon-like belay with 2 good #3 Camalot placements. Wires and other cams may reinforce this belay, A3+ (

nearly C3+

), 70 feet.

P5. You see the exit here just before the guano! The dihedral here traverses to a roof crack. Use cams, a possible red tricam, wires, and a fixed Leeper Z pin to gain the lip. A 0.5 Camalot placement just past the roof gives you a view of the modern, Fixe, 2-bolt anchor with rings 9 feet past the lip. This is an awkward semi-hanging belay stance. You can rappel to a modern, Fixe, 2-bolt anchor with ring anchor (2nd belay of Rock Odyssey) and rappel again to the ground,

C2+

, 60 feet.

P6. An optional pitch from here goes up moderate free ground to the top.

All in all, this takes a longer day than you would guess from below. Cleaning P4 and P5 is taxing.

This route begins at the farthest left portion of dry ground (at least, during low water) on Lost  Angel. Some tricky moves off the deck (crux) lead to easy 5.10 climbing up a black-streaked headwall.

The second pitch climbs up and left, tackling a small roof at mid-height, and reaches a belay after 70 feet.

Third  pitch is somewhat tricky and not very sustained. One can either walk off or rappel.

Podophobia is a cool pitch if you like techy slab climbing. The grade is an early guesstimate. It might feel easier if you're a tech master, or harder if you've been hanging out at the gym too much.

Edit 1/25/15: I've decided to upgrade this from 12+ to 13a. Seems like people are finding it significantly harder than Arch Angel, and I suspect more folks will be interested in trying it if it's rated 13a.

Solo up a dirty 5.7 seam to a high first bolt just above the obvious ledge system that splits the wall, or climb a cleaner 5.9 slab with one bolt to the left. A few bolts lead up into the obvious roof feature. Undercling rightward on somewhat flaky rock, until it is possible to pull over the roof (this happens a bit farther right than you might think). Here things clean up. Follow techy slab climbing up and right, with a cool finishing sequence at the second to last bolt. Eventually gain the 2 bolt anchor shared with the

Arch Angel

extension.

Apologies for the schizophrenic bolting. This section of the wall had some random exploration bolts, and I felt it was better to leave what was there and add what was needed rather than drill more bolts just to make very minor adjustments. I'd recommend putting long slings on bolts 3 and 5 to help alleviate the issue, and also ignore the second two black bolts in the roof. (I'll try to remove these at some point.)

Enjoy!

Dyno Arete is one of the stranger routes on Lost Angel. It is distinguished by a single crux move  that is weirder than all hell, and is otherwise quite mediocre. Rossiter rates it 11a, but it's more of a boulder problem on a rope than anything... and probably not even that hard, once you commit to the move. Bizarre.

Start as for Freedom, then traverse left to the arete (crux), and up to the top.

Begin with P1 of

China Doll

, which has 5 bolts with 2 distinct cruxes at bolts 3 and 5, clip the P1 anchor of

China Doll

with a long runner. Now go up and left using 2 connector bolts to the top of P1 of

Earth Voyage

. Clip one of the anchor bolts and then launch into the mega 2nd pitch of

Earth Voyage

. There is no real rest once you leave the anchor of

China Doll

, so the rating goes up to 12b for the enduro factor on this pitch. It is really sustained and really amazing! Using long draws on the

China Doll

anchor, and the connector bolts can help with drag.  There are 17 bolts total.

The route climbs up an obvious, arching, right-facing dihedral to the right of

China Doll

. Residual dirt and tiny loose crystals can still be found in places, but all the crucial holds are solid. The line has moves somewhat similar to those on

China Doll

and IMO provides a good warm-up/training for later.

I suggest linking P1 & 2, if you are comfortable pulling 5.11a moves above a small ledge.

P1. Climb short 5.9 to a small ramp with a 2-bolt anchor.

P2. Follow bolts past dihedral, get over the ceiling and continue underclinging to chains.

This route climbs the obvious spectacular right-leaning crack in the middle of Lost Angel Wall.  The first pitch features technical stemming with a boulder-problem crux in the middle.  The business of the second pitch is about 25 feet of sustained cranking up the thin arching crack.

Pitch 1 - climb a short 5.10ish bolted pitch to anchors where the crack begins.  Continue up the crack either placing gear or clipping bolts on the right and finish at a 3-bolt anchor (5.13b/c).

Pitch 2 - do a couple of easy moves where the crack is wide. Come out of the offwidth, and grovel with thrutchy lieback moves and finger/tips locks for about 25 feet of super-pumpy rock climbing. At one point, a glued-on hold was utilized here to avoid the difficulties. After running it out for the last 12 or so feet, pull into a scoop where you can rest.  Keep going up the crack, and finish with tricky 5.11ish climbing to two hangerless bolts on the right.  Stop here or continue up for about 10 feet, then go left out the roof clipping two bolts that bring you to Beauty and the Bolts (11d).  Top out Beauty and the Bolts or traverse left to anchors and go down (5.13+).

The rest (P3-5) of China Doll apparently has not gone free.

On Zen Garden Wall, either rap 120' to bolts from the top anchors or 40' from the anchors at the lowers belay ledge at Time Traveler.  From the bottom belay bolts, climb straight up through a roof past three bolts, and up a 4" crack just right of Be Here Now.  Either follow the easy crack to the top or join the bolts of Be Here Now for a slightly more challenging finish.  120'.  Double rope rap back to the belay bolts, or 70-80' to the ledge for Time Traveler, Be Here Now.

Strange Cargo is the first route on the left side of the base of Lost Angel - the start is often underwater in the spring and summer.

The first pitch climbs a dirty face section to a 3 foot roof (crux) and belays just above. ~50 feet.

The second pitch, which can be easily combined with the first, climbs up and trends rightwards to another 2 bolt station.

Per

Benjamn P

: this climbs left and up.

The third pitch (the best on the route) heads up and right to a beautiful, exposed arete which goes at 5.9. No rap station is currently installed at the top of this pitch, necessitating a walk-off descent down the gully. [Eds. a 2 bolt anchor without chains has been added to the top of P3.]

An excellent outing on the wall between Rock Odyssey and

Awakenings

.  Note: except for one easily avoided move on P3, this is all Dream Canyon 5.10.  Don't miss the fourth pitch which culminates the route with a nicely exposed roof.

Start in the same spot as

Rock Odyssey

and

Awakenings

, but scramble up a 3rd class ramp rightwards for about 20 to the first bolt.

P1: 10d (~7 bolts).  Slabbing w/ a crux bulge @ the 3rd bolt.  The first pitch of either of the other two routes could be substituted if looking to add difficulty.

P2: Actually starts at the

Awakenings

belay, so might be best to relocate here.  Follow about 7 bolts up slabs (5.10) to a ledge with anchors.

P3: Step right, then slab up the extremely well protected crux.  5 bolts to the anchor but linking w/ P4 makes sense.

P4.  Follow bolts up and left (don't go right, unless you want a rude awakening) with fun vertical moves to the finishing roof.  A nice transition from slab to steep. 10d.

Rap the route w/ a single 60m, combining pitches 3 & 4 where one has to watch out for the ropes running through a notch in the roof.

The ratings are consistent with most Dream Canyon and Boulder Canyon sport climbing, but ...

Digital Dilemna starts ~10' left of

Dyno Arete

through a blocky bulge and runs up the slab to a scooped dihedral (2 bolt anchor).  Established by Johnny and Stella Adams, the 55 year old retirees from England, the route is characterized by its variety of necessary techniques. It is a fun route with a devious crux.  "Yes, your foot will stay on it ...."

Nothing to write home about, approach this as for Knowoneness on Zen Garden Wall.  From the lower belay bolts, follow the ramp about 20 feet right past Knowoneness and another bolted 5.11 route, to a solitary bolt.  Pull a cruxy move then climb the crack as it eases to the top.

This route climbs an insignificant little crack system left of

Night Grooves

. It isn't very good and is kind of dangerous.  I felt like climbing it though after doing all of the other routes in this spot so many times.

Begin left of

Night Grooves

on easy terrain.  Staying left, clip long runners to the 2nd and 3rd bolts on

Night Grooves

or  opt to place a very poor yellow Mastercam at your feet around where the fun begins.  After veering left of the 3rd bolt on

Night Grooves

, head straight up thin lichen seams for quite a healthy runout.  Just before making the last moves, it is possible to get a small, DMM, offset, brass nut in and keep it oriented with a 0 Mastercam.  If you fell and this small wire blew, you will likely hit the ledge 40 feet below.  Avoid this route if you are not comfortable doing easy but dicey moves on suspect gear.

Belay at a tree at the top of the route.

This variation links the upper corner of

Jungle Blues From Jupiter

into the dihedral (and crux) of

Spiders From Mars

via a wild roof crack traverse (11d). The 12a rating comes from

The Vaino Step

start, which I thought would provide the least amount of rope drag, plus it's the hardest of three logical starts (

The Host

,

The Vaino Step

,

Jungle Blues...

). The other two starts yield an exciting 11d.

Stick clip the first bolt, pull a hard boulder problem, then clip two more bolts (skip the second one that's too far left) with long slings before merging with

JBFJ

. Decipher the perplexing traverse that leads straight into the crux of

SFM

.

Finish as per

Spiders From Mars

: top out the thin corner, step left to an easy corner (crippling drag unless you're careful) for about 20 feet, and move back right to a two-bolt anchor.

This route begins just left of China Doll (the obvious 5.13 dihedral) on the center of the Lost  Angel formation. 2 variations of the first pitch exist, the one on the left is recommended and is a VERY stiff  12a or 12b. If you feel ok on this pitch, you'll do fine on the rest of the route. The 2nd pitch has a few moves of 12a, then some sustained slab climbing to another anchor. The final 2 pitches are 5.11 slab and excellent.

Rush is the sister route to the left of

Rage Against the Machine

on the sunny Wake Up Wall of Lost Angel. Approach via the South Trail (see Rossiter). The Wake Up Wall is the first obvious wall on the right as you descend along Lost Angel towards the creek. The right side of Wake Up Wall features the deep but short, right-facing corner of

Jungle Blues From Jupiter

, which is capped by a 45 degree roof. Left of that is a comfy ledge with a few small trees below the ceilings of

Rage Against the Machine

and Rush.

Start at the base the rightmost vertical crack that leads up from the ledge. This crack is

Take the Power Back

(5.9). This and the two climbs left of it, Crack in the Wall (10a) and the

Killing in the Name

(9) are nice looking trad climbs.

The first bolt is just off the ground and is shared by Rush and

Take the Power Back

. Move right and up onto some big crystals to the 2nd bolt at a steep wall. Move up to some positive holds and clip the 3rd bolt. Pull over the bulge (crux) either by reaching or lunging to buckets up and right (ugly) or by pulling left into the crack. There was a lot of chalk on the crack, but climbing the crack directly looked much harder, although perhaps necessary if you are below a certain height.

The 4th bolt is on the wall of the short right facing corner through the ceiling. The ceiling is rated 10d on the Rossiter topo, but felt about 10a (or 9+?)to me, and fun, with good feet and hands.

Above, you can move either left or right and run it out about 25 feet up easier cracks (5.6 or so) to anchors. The left crack is a bit harder than the right crack, and perhaps longer. A couple of hand-sized cams would be a good idea if you're not comfortable climbing unprotected at that grade.

Between the two finishing cracks is an obvious moderate-looking finger crack over a small bulge. Why doesn't the route continue up this crack? Perhaps Rossiter wanted to keep this a sport route and didn't want to bolt the crack.

I'm rating this 11b as per the Rossiter Boulder Canyon guide, but for me, it felt hard 10 based on the trad ratings I'm more familiar with. It is definitely easier for me than

Rage Against the Machine

.

Primal Cinema links the first pitch of

Strange Cargo

to the final pitch of

Autumn

. The entire climb is either three or four pitches long depending on your choice of belays. It's worth considering if you've already climbed

Strange Cargo

,

Autumn

,

Divination

, and

Zentropa

and want to do another moderate sport route on Lost Angel. 1 star for the independent pitches; 3 stars for the entire route.

P1. Climb the first pitch of

Strange Cargo

.

P2. From the belay, climb a slab on the right and then move back left into a large, right-facing corner. The first bolt is 15' or so above the belay and difficult to spot from below. After a few .10a moves in the corner, diagonal up right following a series of weaknesses in the steep wall and belay on a narrow ledge. The rock on this pitch is friable and loose in places. Be careful.

P3. Pull over a .10b bulge just left of the belay ledge, and then climb up and right to the rounded arete on the third pitch of

Autumn

.

P4. Either continue up

Autumn

or, to minimize rope-drag on its insecure finishing moves, down-climb roughly 15'-20' to the belay anchors before beginning

Autumn's

third pitch. (Rossiter's guidebooks suggest a pendulum to reach the

Autumn

belay. I thought the slabby downclimbing was reasonable. Your second can protect it by leaving the rope clipped into the second bolt on the arete before descending.)

Start 25' right of Boy's World, by a big pine tree next to the rock.  Climb up to a small roof, traverse left, then over the roof (crux) and up a slab to the top.  The crux involves a long reach to a thin crack above the roof; easier if you're tall.

This should be a comment on

Divination

, but we'll highlight it as its own route.  3 bolt direct entrance to

Divination

, climbing out of the creek 8 meters right of

Autumn

, discarding the long, uninteresting traverse in from the right.  The delicate moves bump the grade of

Divination

up to .12a we figure.  Hope you enjoy it!

This route is on the far right side of Lost Angel, in the Wake Up Wall area.  It starts 10 or so feet to the left of Drop Zone (the rightmost bolt line behind the large pine tree), in the large right-facing dihedral.  It follows a thin crack up one overhang (approx 10a?), goes up the face for a short distance, then continues up through another overhang (10c?).  Continue up the lichen-encrusted face and either go up until you can walk off to the right, or traverse right and rappel from the bolts at the top of Drop Zone.

Take short but nice V-slot dihedral (the one on the right with a pine coming out of the  bottom....it's much cleaner than the one on the left) straight up and exit left or right on top for belay.

It's possible to belay or lower from the 2-bolt anchor atop AAArete just to the left, or continue a bit higher and set a gear/sling anchor around boulders, then walk off to the right.

This route climbs the corner and crack system about 15' left of Killing In The Name.  Start below the shelf on the left side of Wake Up Wall, at a big left-facing corner.

Climb 30' up the easy corner to a bolt, and stem up to a big shelf.  Clip the second bolt and climb the steep inset corner above. The crux is at the 4th bolt.  Fun moves in the upper corner.  [Eds. the bolts may have been removed.]

Heads up left leaning dihedral/ramp on easy but exposed terrain to 2-bolt anchor. Pitch 2 heads up short, steep corner (crux) and then takes long easy corner to top of wall (between the South summit and  main summit).

The 1st pitch of Disneyland follows a line of bolts directly up the face below Lost Angel's South Tower. The 2nd pitch ascends a beautiful arete and face to the summit of the Tower.

DISCLAIMER. because I rarely on-sight .11d, I found the protection at the crux unsettling. Afraid that I'd swing into a block if I took a fall, I stood in a sling, clipped the last bolt, and lowered to the stance at the bolt below before continuing. Better climbers may be more comfortable with the placement of the crux bolts.

Either follow the base of the cliff uphill from

Autumn

, past

Zentropa

, to the

Long Dong Dihedral

or hike down the Wake Up Wall approach gully to the corner of the South Tower, turn north, and descend another 50 yards to

Long Dong

.

P1. Start up the

Long Dong Dihedral

, then follow bolts up a technically interesting face to a stance below a bulge ending in a right-leaning dihedral. Struggle over the PG-13 bulge into the insecure, cramped dihedral, clip the last bolt, and grope for good holds out of sight above. Belay at a 2 bolt anchor below a ramp, .11d, 100', 13 bolts.

P2. Climb easily to the ramp, make a dicey traverse left around the west arete of the South Tower (extend 1 or 2 clips to reduce rope drag), then climb a steep, sustained wall just left of the arete to a 2 bolt anchor near the summit, .11a, 80', 10 bolts.

Rap the route or descend the Wake Up Wall approach gully.

Basically an alternate first pitch to Strange Cargo (it's to the left), distinguished only by a more  difficult move at the initial roof and lower quality rock. Can be used as an approach to some of the far left  Lost Angel routes which normally require a rappel.  5.11 slab and excellent.

Warm up on P1, then think laterally on the next couple of interesting, tenuous, challenging pitches. This is another route that I've only done the first pitch of. It shares the first 2 bolts of

Rock Odyssey

, then it heads up and right to an independent anchor. The next 2 pitches look good, but I haven't gotten around to doing them.

This route is located on the Zen Garden Wall of Lost Angel.  Find the 2 bolt anchor at the top of the Zen Garden Wall.  It is probably best to rope up the first time.  Rap 100ft to the set of anchors to the left of the 2nd pitch of

Strange Cargo

, 5.11b.

Another great first ascent by Rossiter in this area.  Angle up and right,  clip two bolts as you setup for the crux roof. Funky sidepulls and good footwork will get you over the roof.  Then enjoy the perfect finger and thin handcrack above.  Join

Be Here Now

(5.8) for 3 more clips.

Begin about 200 feet down and left from the high point of the approach ramp.

P1. Start at a bolt or climb a hand crack ten feet to the right. Gain a finger crack that leads to a short headwall with three bolts (crux). On the last bolt, place a long sling, climb up and right along a ramp and gain a two-bolt anchor.

P2. Climb the second pitch of Long Dong Dihedral (to the left) and belay at a two-bolt anchor after 50 feet.

P3. Follow seven bolts and a finger crack (Stoppers) up through the middle of the NW face of the south tower. (10c 80 ft.) The bolt on the summit is bent so you'll need a few pieces to anchor on the summit.

The first pitch provides 5.9 trad, and great 5.11 sport.  The last provides solid 5.10 moves with great exposure.

Locate the start of the route Freedom.  Walk back uphill to the right about 50' and look up into a hand-to-fist crack in a left-facing dihedral.  After about 10' of dihedral, this becomes and 'inset' which is to say that there is an opposing right-facing dihedral to stem to.  This crack begins about 30' up, above some trashy, shrubby stone.

Start in from the right of the shrubs, clipping a few bolts of the neighboring sport climb with long draws or slings until you are about 25' up.  Work left and put in a 1.5" cam in an initial crack.  Move up and left into the main crack and jam and plug away until reaching a large ledge rising up and to the right.  Once on the ledge, clip what is the final bolt for Freedom, then move up and right to belay from the freedom anchors.

Rap from the freedom anchors, a 50m rope will do just fine.

Moe put this great route up a few years ago. It is between

Divination

and

Earth Voyage

. This is one of the best climbs in Dream Canyon. It is sustained, varied, and asthetic.

I only did the first 2 pitches.

P1. Start between

Divination

and

Earth Voyage

, and move up to the line of bolts between them. There are two cruxes on this pitch - reachy with gastons and layaways (12c to 13a, ~12 bolts).

P2. Go up and slightly left from the anchors and follow the bolts. It is slightly easier than the first pitch (11d, ~12 bolts).

P3. Per

Patrick Hardy

: join the last pitch of

Divination

(10a, 6 bolts).

Crimp strength and fancy foot work will pay off big on this stellar route.

This climb starts with the first 20 feet of

Time Traveler

.  Head up the hand crack of

Time Traveler

until it is possible to reach to the right and clip the bolt at the bottom of the Shape Shifters crack. Downclimb a few feet and do foot traverse to the crack on the right.  Make some fun lieback moves and finish on the thin slab after the crack dies (2 more bolts).

This route is located on the south-facing Warm Up Wall on Lost Angel. It is left of the double dihedrals of Jungle Blues and Spider. Rage goes through two large roofs, the second via a splitter hand crack angling up and right. The anchors are visible from the ground and so are the three bolts on the first roof. The crack through the second roof is very obvious.

Start with some steep moves on good holds through the first roof. A small nut between bolt 1 and 2 will reduce your  chances of hitting the ground. After the third bolt, there is a difficult mantle and long reach up to a good hold. This will be very difficult for short people.  After the mantle move, continue up an easier shallow dihedral for 10 feet to a good rest at the base of the crack. This is where the business starts.  Plug in some good gear and jam small hands up and right through the wildly overhanging crack with very little for the feet. After about 20 ft. of very strenuous jamming, switch into a left-angling crack on good holds and swing up and left to the anchor. Rap or lower off.

Note: The description of this route in Rossiter's Falcon guide shows five bolts and a topo that does not fit with the route very well...??

This is a great but much harder finish to

Hunky Monkey

.  Do the first two pitches of

Hunky Monkey

, but instead of going up and right on the ramp for the third pitch, go LEFT and climb a short bolted headwall that goes at 11b.  The fourth pitch is amazing and is rated 11d.

The 11b pitch has a crazy pull up and mantle move to get started which is followed by nice but easier climbing.  The next pitch is excellent and involves steep and difficult to read face climbing.

If you don't feel like clipping bolts all day but are lacking the guns to try

China Doll

, this multiple-tiered dihedral system provides a nice all gear alternative to reach the anchors for

Rock Odyssey

. Surprisingly interesting climbing and some good finger locks make this a worthwhile little pitch.

Climb first pitch of Long dong dihedral and continue past bolts and crux corner/crack to another 2 bolt station at base of beautiful line up south/west face of the South tower.....slab climbing past 2 bolts to a finger crack (stopper/small cam).....follow crack up to blank section with 2 bolts, turn small roof by sidepull and layback up and right on phenomenal rock past a few more bolts to the summit.  Sustained 5.9 with the 10c blank section (2 bolts) for spice..... very good pitch and much better finish than the Long dong dihedral 2nd pitch.

Night Grooves is now the farthest left bolted line on the Zen Garden section of the Lost Angel Wall. Scramble down the gully in between Dream Dome and the Lost Angel wall, and turn left down a 4th class gully to the good ledge left of the large tree, or alternately rap down from the anchors atop

Time Traveler

(exposed).

This route starts about 15 feet left of

Time Traveler

on the obvious ledge. It is a thought provoking slab climb with very thin crimp features and thumb mantels characterizing the main crux moves which come early, and then the route stays consistent until around the fifth bolt with fun moves onto the upper slab to the anchors.

Signs of Life starts about 15-20 feet right of

Zentropa

and is a bolted face climb with red hangers.  The route is great. It starts with a hard move pulling over a sort-of roof with a long stem and a sloper. Then easy face climb to a fun roof and above to the crux. A fresh rock scar with chalk behind it makes it seem like the crux was probably easier before, but who knows. The crux involves another stem left and a move off a tiny sloper. Then some more easy face climbing to a 2-bolt anchor.

Description

Protection

Routes in Lost Angel