Finding this classic route is trivial: hike the trail till you see the 2-foot etching of a climber in the rock. Route starts on left side of the etching. Route offers perfect pro all the way. Stem and jam a 1-inch crack (10-). Crux hits about 30-40 feet up as the stems run out and the finger jams become very shallow. Going eases somewhat just above as some wide stemming again becomes possible. Note the cool hand holds just below double bolt anchors.

Morning Star

St. Paddee's Day

Mantra Extension

Mantra

Morning Star Extension

Johnny and the Mellonheads

Cry of the Gerbil

Left Wing

Dark Star

Lethal Dose

Turning Point

Freon

Neutron Star

Last Days

Levitate

Daytime Drama

Extension for Morning Star.  Continue up to the right past the Morning Star anchors.  Follow a thin crack for 15 ft then traverse left and up through the final steep section.  Easier climbing to a large ledge just below the rim.  Use a 70 m rope to lower to the ground.  Tie a knot in the end of the rope a 70 just reaches.  (planning on moving the anchors down lower at some point....)

Mantra Extension stacks 50 feet of overhanging terrain atop the existing classic, Mantra.Sometimes grainy and a little spicy, it has adequate gear and breathtaking position.This is likely the steepest 5.10 at Smith Rock.  It deserves way more repeats than it gets.

Face climbing on some interesting rock leads to a fun finger and hand crack. Bolt anchors at the top.

All the pins have been replaced with bolts. A new anchor has been added instead of sharing anchors with Neutron Star. The new finish is longer, a bit run out, but the difficulties ease quickly. There are a few 5.12 sections on this route. One comes low on gear, the other comes at the first bolt.

This is a super techy route. Sustained climbing through out the entire pitch. Well protected and thought provoking climbing.

This is a really good warm up. Start up the finger crack on gear until possible to step right. Climb over the crux roof(bolts) and continue up the slab to the anchor.

The crux comes at mid height with some typical hard gorge stemming.

Another killer stem line in the Lower Gorge! Thin, but doable moves open things up after which the difficulty slowly builds. The crux comes high on the route moving past a flare protected by bolts followed by a wild move to a jug.

Makes a great top rope from Mantra with a directional piece.  Pretty hard moves for .11a.  The guide book makes it sound like a POS, but you won't be disappointed with a Top rope.

Climb the sometimes awkward wide cracks to the fun (if short) corner above. Move left to the anchors on Mantra or right to the closer anchors on Levitate.

Another forgotten gorge 5.10.   

  This Route had a complete makeover including scrubbing and bolt additions in 2014.

Awesome gorge climbing, a typical "innie" between Dark Star and Morning Star. Begin with funky stem/smear moves and a high hand-foot match protected by small gear to a good stance on a rail. Clip the first pin, breath, and fight crimps, locks, and smears to a slopy block at the bolt. Finesse and power your way through a deadpoint crux and play find the kneebar. Clip three more pins as you fight through technical smears and awkward bulging slots. Try to catch your breath at the last pin before a flared handjam and sidepull sequence gives way to easier climbing.

A great route with solid gear.  Most of the route is simple laybacking, jamming, and jug hauling, with only a few tricky moves at the start.  

  Watts recommends moving right to anchors, but the anchors to the left worked for us, and were chains instead of ratty slings.  Also, we had the chance to tr Levitate, which is worth a few minutes of your time.

Technical and bouldery climbing up the bolted arete(crux) to a rest. Finish up the right-facing dihedral on gear ( 10a ). Best to lead Last Days and then hang draws on the way down. Consider using a long sling and quickdraw on second and third bolt for easier/safer clipping.

Technical and varied climbing on a column past eight bolts leads to the upper crack section of Morning Star. The crux comes between bolt #3 and #4. Reaching bolt #8 is somewhat contrived because you have to consciously avoid using the Morning Star crack on your right. The climbing quality, however, is excellent.

The full-height left side of this wall is home to some of the most classic difficult cracks in the gorge, including the classics Dark Star (5.11d/12a), Neutron Star (5.12a), and Morning Star (5.10c).

Description

Protection

Routes in (4) Star Wall