Badman takes off on overhanging jugs, crimpy pockets, and under-clings for three bolts.  The first crux is an amazing, desperate, dynamic problem from a good undercling to a nasty two finger pocket (clip in the meantime), then a powerful pull from the pocket to another two finger pocket gaston.  Once you have the second pocket, move your feet up, maybe gaston with your right hand, and get set for the exhilarating throw to a big flat jug.   

  The moves flow more amicably from here until you hit a second crux: reach out left, finger-lock in a small, sharp (foot)hold, step high with your right, and snag the sloper.  I consider this the second of three cruxes, but maybe others don't share that opinion. 

  For the final crux, establish on the powerful underclings, boldly trust the feet, and stab high, with your right hand, into a positive two-finger pocket.  There is shitty sloper-crimp-thumb-catch that works for an intermediate, but I wouldn't expect much. While significantly more powerful than the first crux, it doesn't require a dyno, so it is higher probability for me. 

  From the pocket, dance up through a delightful series of huge pockets, with long reaches in between.  This gives those big muscle groups a workout, and lets the fingers rest a little.  

  Expect 5.11 climbing for a couple of bolts, and then a couple bolts worth of medium/hard 5.12 before you make it to a rail that leads to the anchor. These moves are actually quite technical and sequential.  The toughest moves involve locking off on a right hand pocket (awkward for me), grabbing a crappy left hand duo, and working the feet up high to double drop knees.  Bear down on the beloved triangle hold with the left hand, and then shimmy yourself over to the right to grab a good hold.  You'll have to lock this thing off to your hip, so get your feet high, and stab your left hand into a tight two finger pocket that feels miles away.  It's hard to say, because I'm wrecked by that point, but the headwall could be 12d.   

  As hard as each of the problems is, the hardest thing is that there aren't any rests until you hit the big pockets at sixty feet.  At that point, you still have thirty feet to go.  Rhythm is everything.

Badman

Scene of the Crime

Wedding Crasher

Feet of Clay

Majestic Pigeon

White Wedding

Repeat Offender

Toxic

Badass Mother

Seasonal Effectiveness Disorder

Ghost Rider

Drunkorexia

Lucky Pigeon

The Quickening

Soul Crusher

Aggro Monkey

Spewing

Villain

Skinny Sweaty Man

Planet Mechanic

Delinquent

Up for Grabs

Highway to Hell

Kiss Fight

Scrotal Avenger

Mama Daucus

Crankenstein

Disposable Heros

The Assassin

Pouch Whisker

Crime Wave

The Burl Master

Kill The Hate

Monkey Boy

Climb the entire lower panel of Badman, including both cruxes.  Pull the small roof onto jugs and move up and left to the furthest left hueco.  Clip a shoulder length draw on the bolt up to the right (10th of Badman). From the hueco, move straight left, directly into the meat of Mama Daucus, executing a couple of tricky moves to reach the "Basketball." Fire through the crux of Mama Daucus and finish that route as normal.

Despite its quality, this route sits somewhat neglected near the top of the Aggro Gully, due to a difficult mono move.  Locals claim the crux one-finger crank is harder than any move on White Wedding, and still others say that if you have fat fingers, you won't be able to  fit your middle finger in the pocket at all. 

  However, if you have the finger strength, this will be a quick tick.  The climb starts with a tough boulder problem, then a sequential rightwards traverse to a good rest before climbing up to the crux.  Grab a decent crimp with your right, then stuff your left middle finger (or ring) in the pocket, rock up on your right foot, and stab (with your right hand) for a good 3-finger pocket.  More sequential pockets and crimps lead to a final pumping section and the chains.  

Cool linkup between the first part of Badman and the end crux of White Wedding. Put a runner on the 6th bolt of Badman to cut right into white wedding. A little bit awkwardness to get into the start of the crux of White Wedding. It's fun, and very sustained. Hard for the grade.

Approach the first bolt of this route with an easy leftward traverse on creaky flakes.  The technical crux awaits you at the second bolt where you must decipher some tricky arete moves.  Once passed the arete make your way up right through some committing moves on overhanging jugs.  Enjoy the fun exposed moves!

Another great route in Aggro, this provides a nice contrast from the crimpy Planet Mechanic. Start on a juggy flake and head right to the first bolt. Good holds head up to bolt 4 where great pocket climbing under the roof. A tough move to a resting pocket allows you to catch your breath before the roof. An exciting and largely skin friendly sequence takes you over the roof to the anchors.

Steep, powerful 5.11+ climbing on positive huecos and pockets leads past the first three bolts and brings you to the first rest.  When you feel focused and composed move into the most technical part of the route- an insecure sequence revolving around an almost nonexistent vertical seam, and a bunch of very small pockets and pebbles ending with a dynamic move.  From here traverse left, and get psyched to skip the eighth bolt and commit to the slightly runout, off balance redpoint crux.  After clipping the ninth bolt, try to recover some energy for the final boulder problem and the extremely pumpy lieback section that protects the anchors.

Very bouldery! Rarely repeated testpiece at the entrance of Aggro Gully. Start on Highway to Hell and bust left at the third bolt. Boulder through a  severe panel of tiny crimps and slopey pockets (v11/12 boulder problem?!?!) into a good undercling rest jug. Go up 3 more bolts and head right to finish. As more people get on it the rock quality will only improve.

Toxic is short and sweet.  It's probably the steepest moderate climb at Smith Rock.  While the crux is somewhat height-dependant it's a dyno for virtually everybody.  The holds are enormous and the fall isn't bad at all, so fire with everything you've got! 

  The large jugs are a welcome change from the crimps and pockets that are found on most routes here. 

  Toxic can be found at the far left end of the left side of the Aggro Gully.  Belay from some large boulders at the base of the route.

Some technical moves at the start lead to an enjoyable crux bulge with jug holds.  Finish on a somewhat easier slab.

This is an old route that was bolted with Lag bolts in the late 80's. I recently re-bolted it and added a new anchor as well. The crux comes at a bulge near the top of the route. Very bouldery crux. Opinions vary as to the grade, 12b/c seems to be a good rating. Some loose rock is to be expected as it has not had many ascents. Enjoy!

A bouldery start on large huecos leads to easier terrain. Not quite a one mover, but close. Worthy excursion if you're trying Burl Master.

Same start as White Wedding. Begin in a steep section utilizing large incuts. Clip the 4th and make a large move to a decent slopper 11+. Rest and enter the crux, a series of delicate pockets to some serious pebble pinching 13-. At the 3rd pebble move up and right to a good slot just above the roof, match and move your way up the second tier. After clipping grab yet another pebble and high step and scum your way to a nice slopping 4 finger pocket, stand up and grab the huge jug, rest. Make your way back left and finish out on the pumpy rail system, roughly 12b from there. Endurance and crimp strength are key to sending this rig.

Amazingly this is one of the easier lines up the incredibly burly Agro Wall. At .12c with two distinct cruxes, a pumpy finish, and even a mantle, this route gives you full value. There are a few hollow-sounding jugs towards the top so be careful when you're yarding off of them during the final sprint to the chains.I found the lower crux to be more strenuous than the upper one but locking off and stabbing for the pocket on the upper becomes pretty difficult if you're getting pumped. Well-bolted and clean falls.

This is the route just a few feet to the right of Toxic.  3 bolts of easy climbing eventually force you onto jugs on the face where you clip the fourth bolt and are then met with a very well-protected, straightforward, and difficult crux.   

  A few huge cranks on pockets lead to the next bolt and then finish up on some edges and crimps to the anchor.  The top looks relatively bare from the ground, but there are more than enough holds to get you through.   

  The climbing is very unsustained and the crux is quite short-lived.  I didn't find it to be very pumpy, but in my experience, the move was fairly low percentage.  

  It is quite close to Toxic and I even ended up using one of the same holds, but IMO this didn't seem overly contrived and I didn't feel like it detracted from the route.

After conquering The Quickening it's time to move on down to the serious stuff on this wall, and Aggro Monkey is the next logical step.  It's steep, it has some big lockoffs with desperate stabs to pockets, and it's always got quickdraws hanging enticingly. 

  This is what the Aggro Wall is all about-- pumpy, thuggish, and powerful moves with gorgeous position on good rock.

This thing is totally worth doing! 

 Wade through some brush at the base and climb delicately on fragile rock to a no hands ledge at the 3rd bolt, then tackle a fun and powerful boulder problem through the steep section. The headwall is moderate but pretty good, with some easily avoidable choss mixed in.

 I reinforced all of the important holds through the boulder problem so it should be good to go for a while. Get on it!

Power endurance. Start on a juggy traverse into a giant undercling. There is a weird move into a couple good holds. After that, climb a 5.13- to two incut crimps. Then, grab four very bad slopey pockets and hold on until you grab a positive pocket. Rest, then finish on Lucky Pigeon. Solid in the grade; the boulder problem is four moves of v10 or v11. 

  Remember to either a) Stick clip the second draw instead of clipping the first, or b) Reach back and unclip the first draw after clipping the second.

Short roof at beginning gives way to easier climbing to anchor. Not a bad climb but the hike doesn’t warrant the trip unless your headed up there anyways. Heads up belay to the first and second bolt.

Shares the first bolt with Up for Grabs and then moves right.  Great route with power crux in the lower half and fun moves to the anchor.

This route tackles two distinctive cruxes: the start of Villain and a somewhat reachy, technical panel in character with everything else on the wall. Serves as a nice, short intro to Aggro Gully savagery. Climb the horrible start of Villain. At the 5th bolt, just before the Villain crux panel, head right to the anchor of Highway to Hell. 

An excellent line that starts in the middle of the left wall of the Aggro Gully.  A somewhat height-dependant crux comes at the top.

Highway to Hell follows long pulls between slopey dishes and thin edges up a slightly overhanging panel of marginal rock.  The climbing is a bit off-balance as the line leans left, and the rock deriorates quite a bit near the top.  There are many better 5.12a's around, and this is likely the worst 12a in the Aggro Gully, but if you are desperate for morning shade, this doesn't see the sun until 2pm or so.

This is a fun line if you enjoy thin/techincal movement.  I've heard it called 12c, but I found the crux to have generally better holds and easier movement than any 12c you could find on the front side.  (Doritos, Dakine Corner, Last Waltz, Full Heinous, Karate Wall, et al.)  It's also basically a 10' boulder problem, so it's over quickly.  I thought it was like an advanced version of Planet Mechanic.Start out climbing up some hollow flakes to the right of the bolt line and then step left to the hanging slab below the bulge. (stick clip recommended, but not required)  Easy moves gain a horizontal crack after which the business starts.  Do a somewhat powerful move over the lip followed by two closely spaced bolts of progressively thinning movement that culminate in a technical sequence on sidepulls and nubbins.  After this point the route is over and you can surf up good holds to the chains.

This is a fun pitch.  Reasonably straight forward vertical climbing leads into a powerful reach and a technical finish.

Really fun route for the grade, with almost no painful holds or super hard moves.  Working this route you get to repeatedly do the lower Aggro Monkey crux which results in finally learning the correct beta and actual enjoyment of the lower roof.  

  From there, you get a great rest and then up and right for about 20 feet of really fun climbing (11 plus/12a) with ending with a really fun big move off a left gaston to latch the "basketball" hold with your right.  The "basketball" has a great curved lip for both hands and you clip here and try to get a quick shake before the crux. 

  The crux is grabbing poor left hand, setting feet on two bad holds and dyno for a big four finger pocket that is very soft, but hard to hold. If you latch the hold, do the "jump on your kitchen counter top move" to get your left foot on basketball, then balance up and match on a really slipperly sloper.  You are standing on a huge foothold so just hold on very gently and gingerly bring right up to good foot and quick pop to good holds.  Clip and very fun big moves/big holds to anchor.   

  I've fallen off this route a lot and its really fun, send or no send.

Clear the bulge at the beginning then some good reaches to anchors that come shortly after you begin.

A good flow route with moderately difficult movement throughout. It begins by climbing the overhanging section of The Quickening, where you must traverse left on pumping jugs. You wont encounter a single stopper move, most plummet near the top on relatively decent holds.  

  You'll be tempted to climb to the right at the top, into The Quickening. Do not do this. Locals lower down in the gully will sneer and invalidate your ascent.

Links the crux of Repeat Offender (5.14b), and Villain (5.14a), before cutting left to White Wedding (5.13d/14a), and climbing that from the crux to the chains.

This is a fun, "thoughtful" route.  The moves aren't hard, but they feel insecure, which adds to the entertainment.  Anchors appear to be glue-ins without epoxy?

It's worth doing, but usually has no chalk and not fixed. It starts up the ramp maybe 20' from Aggro monkey. Tackles a couple tough v6-7 boulder problems before joining Scene of the Crime right before the mono crux. I would recommend lowering down off of Scene of the Crime to chalk and brush holds if it looks like it hasn't received attention lately.

The Burl Master is a major test in power endurance, with every move from start to finish being both athletic and strenuous.  This route could serve as a stepping stone to the more notable hard routes at Smith.  This is probably the funnest 5.13 at Smith, but youll have to deal with a little crumbly stone, unsightly epoxy, and a grueling 10 minute hike to the top of the gully. 

  Start the Burl Master by summiting a two foot pile of cheater stones.  Reach up to some good holds on the roof, cut your feet, and launch in to a short dynamic boulder problem.  Top out this rather pointless boulder problem and get a full recovery before you enter the meat of the route. 

  Traverse left to the fifth bolt and execute a controlled dyno to a big slopey jug.  Clip the sixth bolt and battle upward past a bad crimp with the aid of a mono intermediate.  Try to shake out at the seventh bolt before embarking on a technical leftward traverse. 

  After the final draw is clipped you are basically just making your way up the wall on a series of good horizontal holds.  One last left hand dynamic (crux) move gets you to a good jug and the route is in the bag at that point.  There are several alternatives to doing the huck, but they are all hard, and probably not as fun or rewarding.  So pound a couple red bulls and get psyched to commit to the last move.

This is a fun power endurance problem.  It starts out with big moves on good holds through a steep bulge, enters a crimpy over-hanging boulder-problem, and finishes with some more jug wrangling on the final bulge.  The moves are fun and athletic, and the holds are comfortable, but don't appear to be excessively manufactured.

Monkey Boy features fun overhanging pulls between great jugs.  Its surprising that Crack Babies (12b) receives so much more traffic than this route.  If youre in search of an easy 12c, like big moves on good holds, and closely spaced bolts, then this route is for you. 

  Start by scrambling up a series of ledges to the first bolt.  Next climb a short funky slab to a bulge.  Then the jug hauling is on for about 15 feet.  Clip the final bolt and commit to a long left handed lunge to a one inch edge.  Thats the crux.  This route is tons of fun, and worth a try if you find yourself climbing Toxic. 

  Note: The Watt's guidebook indicates a hard to clip bolt.  Perhaps the bolt has been moved, because none of the clips are strenuous. 

Home to many burly steep routes.  Testpieces like White Wedding (5.14a), Badman (5.14a) and Villain (5.13d) can be found on the gully's right side, and a handful of slightly easier but still very steep routes such as the classic Toxic can be found on the walls on the left.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (d) Aggro Gully