Roadside is a really fun beginner trad line that is just a couple steps off the road winding up Mount Scott - and it’s a solid (tape measured) 49’ from the belay ledge (that is a short 12-15' scramble) from the ground to the top.Along the way you’ll have a mix of fingers, thin hands, cups, crimps, stem, fists and the gear placements are bomber and a new leader can place every body length or choose to run it out to their comfort level.very good mixture of positioning, crack techniques and gear placements from 0.4 - BD4. Newer climbs might want to bring two #2s or two #3s.While a 30m will handle most Wichita shorties with extra length leftover, a 30m will be right off the belay ledge on rappel. With rope stretch you’ll touch the ground.***A route matching this description was documented in SUMMIT 1986 and called "ROADSIDE" but described as 85' and 5.7. The belay ledge is about 12-15' off the ground adding to the effective height.The article describes it as a great climb on good rock in a dihedral right off the road, which is very true. It also states you wish it went on for 200' which is also true. Curt Fry, James Stuberg, and Kent S. Kaden (spelling?) share the credit for the climbs and article. Please climb this great route and if you think it hits at 5.7 please update my estimation.***

Roadside

Saggy Windows Corner

Potamus

Wears Them 7s On Her Sleeve

ICE CREAM MACHINE BROKE (Sorry)

Marshmallow Juice Arete

The Juggy Roof V2 ™

Wears Them 7s On Her Sleeve is a fine direct crack line of mainly 0.1 micro cam and tiny stopper size with a couple finger pods making it possibly a high level boulder for the campus crew that knows crack techniques.7s goes clean on secure thin gear mostly with a few spots of iffy nuts followed by bomber cam placements.if climbed on pins a few times, the boulder line would open up to be a definite line that goes without huge lunges devoid of feet.If it gets climbed on pins it will surely change from C1-C1+ to C0 in time.Multiple natural raps exists on the shelf above. 30m rope is just right for the climb and rap. 30m is also perfect length for Radioactive Crag Mouse (Roadside 1986) just to the west 50 yds.Easier lines exist to the left. A harder crimp and credit card feet line may go at high grade to the right in better temps.

Saggy Windows starts on the inside edge of the Arete for your right hand and on and undercling rail for your left. Use any part of the 2’ Undercling and 2’ Arete sidepull to start. Fun starting move leads to a slap and pully topout.

Sit start with left hand on side pull hold and right hand on low incut hold. Continue straight up and exit. The crux is the start and first few moves. The separated stones beneath the start are x'ed in the photo. They are not on.

ICE CREAM MACHINE BROKE is a very unique blend of good holds and two blank walls. Use boulder bro power moves or tech your way up the face with the few options available.Start with hands on crimps under a roof to the left of the dihedral. Figure out feet and lift off. Achieve the box crimp jug in the joint of the dihedral less than halfway up. Blast off doe the sharp jug or use creative footwork to get there.  This problem is infuriatingly long for someone with a 70” wingspan but if you’re 6’ or taller this will likely feel smooth. The pedestals to the left of starting holds are not very useful but I'm sure someone will ask if they are On. FA did not use them and they are awkward as hell to use anyway.

Marshmallow Juice Arete starts on a left sidepull jug and a point right sidepull jug on the Arete. Find feet lift off and take the natural line that turns the corner and goes up the Arete for a satisfying mantle. Pad should really be inline with the Arete facing SE.

The Juggy Roof V2™ Starts on a jug sidepull rail with both hands and feet in the blob rail below. Get the glorious incut jug and work the roof directly to enjoy the experience. Jam out for a secure topout. 

Little Willies Wonder Wall is one of the shortest approaches around and has V0-V7 established and definitely harder lines to be developed. Good holds and incut crimps on solid rock. Will have good shade mid-afternoon to sunset as the wall faces SE. Trees nearby offer morning shade.

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Routes in Little Willies Wonder Wall