This long climb starts out with a tricky move down low with continuous technical face climbing through a roof mid way.  The finish is a incredible Gunks style roof with huge holds.

Rap with two ropes or use the mid anchors on the 5.12.

Climbing on the Brain

Gecko Simulator

Cruising Black Stone

The start of this route is a strenuous, right trending slabby boulder problem. In your face straight off the ground. When I climbed the route I found two bail biners, likely due to people confusing it with its neighbor to the (climbers) right, Climbing on the Brain. Fight your way up 12 (or so) bolts to a chain anchor. Really fun route.

This route is not in Grahm Doe's Shuteye Ridge guidebook.

This is a good warm-up route for the area, since the climbing is mostly continuous 5.10 until the crux roof finale.  This is a beautiful long route with interesting movement. Do it!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Black Streaks Wall