Climb up the first section of mediocre rock to a stance under the roof. Throw in some more reassuring gear and pull over on good handjams. Once established in the crack above the roof, cruise up easier terrain for the remainder of the route.

Tsefnaeb

Mangas Coloradas

Chokonen

Edge of Worst Fear

This is a great line just right of, and sharing an anchor with, Mangas Coloradas. Although it doesn't climb the dramatic feature of that route, it is in many ways a better climb as it is more consistent at the grade and lacks the "crouton filter" start. 

  Climb a few liebacks past the first couple bolts, then move slightly left and continue up the steep, featured face to a bolted anchor.

Described in the Kerry guidebook as one of the best dike climbs in the East Stronghold, Mangas Coloradas indeed climbs a dramatic red dike system that forms enormous flakes (and jugs). The climb is fun and wild, but is marred by much easier climbing following an extremely difficult start as well as the dike itself which is hollow in places and rather scary.

 Begin the route by climbing up a dead tree that appears to have naturally fallen into position (though it could be climber-engineered). Clip the first bolt and perform a difficult move (5.11). Without this tree, the first 15' of climbing are surely much harder. Expect a long run between the third and fourth bolts (though the climbing is easy), and again between the fourth and fifth. Fixed anchor.

 The route is unusual and fun, but I couldn't quite call it great. So two stars - but worth a trip if you have a short day up at Rockfellow.

 Mangas Coloradas was an Apache chief and warrior who suffered terrible injustice and ultimately death when he met with US forces to negotiate peace and was promptly detained, tortured, and executed. His body was then mutilated and never returned to the Apache people. He was also Cochise's father-in-law.

Two and a half stars and stiff.Start up the left leaning chimney with three bolts and then follow the arete and face up to a thin crack to the chains.

These three areas are all in close proximity to one another and are found near the top of a steep drainage that rises to the north of the main East Stronghold trail. As you're hiking up towards the Rockfellow Group, look to the right well after passing Stronghold Dome and you'll see the drainage; alternatively, it can be seen directly below/beneath Waterfall Dome which in turn has an obvious, low-angle, featured water streak on its southern aspect that leads almost directly down to the trail/main wash. The most obvious, and largest, of these formations is Worm Dome which is distinguishable by long roof systems and overlaps along its west face - it is very identifiable from high on the main trail near Waterfall Dome looking down and back to the North. The other formations sit just above Worm Dome at the top of the drainage.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Worm Dome, Tsef Naeb, and Murray Canyon