The cruxes are getting off the ground and about half way up. A nice direct route, well equipped. Will clean up with use, still a bit flaky.

This route was originally bolted by a couple from Europe in the 90's but was chopped by the park ranger because it was put in without a permit.  A new permit, submitted by Dave Bingham, was approved and the route was restored in Aug 2016.

Return of the Bumblie

Fifty Feet of Fun

New York Is Not The City

Brass Monkey

Bumblie Takes a Tumblie

Miki's Six

Bumble Pie

Flight of the Bumblie

Too Much Fun

Another fun route on this wall, with a bouldery start and the crux between the 5th and 7th bolts.  A great lead for the aspiring 11a climber.

Located on the far left side of the Bumble crag.  Scramble up 30 feet of class 5 huecos placing one or more cams before clipping the first bolt.  Use a variety of face holds, stemming positions, and laybacks to gain the third bolt. Make bouldery moves right and continue to a stance to clip the 4th bolt.  Run it out or place a #2 cam to gain the chains.  This route is called "Fifty Feet of Fun" in the newest city of rocks guidebook. Dave Bingham?

Also, the description says "could place some cams". This should be specified. "Bring a 0.5 camalot for before the bolts, and a #2 camalot for after the bolts"

A fun route with a bit of easy runout to start, then good moves all the way up.  It is possible to toprope the next route to the right, Flight of the Bumbliee, also 5.10a

This is a mostly gear protected line just to the right of “Too Much Fun,” which preceded "Brass Monkey," by many years.

It joins “Too Much Fun” on the final slab; you will clip the last few bolts , and use the anchor for “Too Much Fun.”

1) You will need two ropes for the  descent  from the Too Much Fun anchor.

2)

Brass nuts or other micronuts are highly recommended to protect the crux.

Directly to the climbers right of Too Much Fun, you will see a ramp trending rightward, below a light colored face. Ascend this ramp easily, and gain the obvious crack, which initially protects well. Ascend to where the crack narrows down to finger size, and the feet become problematic. This is the crux, and it protects reasonably with brass nuts. Persevere through a few feet of thin hands and feet, and the crack opens again to hand size, the angle eases, and footholds reappear. Avoid temptation to stay in the crack, which opens to chimney size.

Ascend the final slab and clip the last few bolts of “Too Much Fun,” to the anchor.

One of the better routes at it's grade,

Miki's Six

busts up a short, smooth slab and joins a long, left leaning hand/fist crack.

Start on the far south side of the buttress next to a tree for the most casual way to gain the crack, or begin directly below the crack on a thinner, more trickier, full-value face. Either way, the crack is the real reason you're there.

Climb a little over fifteen feet to get to the crack, plug a piece and let the fun begin. Follow the slowly widening break up and left towards a huge hanging flake. Using jams and face holds climb the relaxed route up to a troublesome area around the 3/4's mark. Work you way through this and finish wide at the large, crisp, flake.

A relatively short face climb, with nice clean edges. Climb through a short overhang and follow a series of balancy moves until you cut right onto headwall.

Flight of the Bumblie

is a primarily traditional route that climbs huge patina edges to a blank spot which then follows a hand sized crack to a set of chains.

Start steep on big edges running it high and slightly left towards a bolt. Pass this section (crux) and follow a shallow crack through a steep bulge passing placements towards the

New York is Not The City

anchor.

Long and fun, with an exciting opening sequence.  Best to belay from the top, and there is a good ledge.  Two ropes to rappell off.  This route is in the first big turn off along the path along the base of the wall. Enjoy!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bumblie Rock