Around the corner to the right of

Warren Piece

is a crack system that starts with parallel cracks at the bottom (crux).

Antithesis

Caucasoid Corner

Lick Crack

Warren Piece

Fat Finger Frenzy

Poloroid

Caucasoid Wall

New Shoes

Sedated Racoon

Petting Zoo

Bonzoid Corner

Fall is in the Air

Young Wretches

Face Full o' Bush

Caucasoid Crack

Peeled and Deveined

This is left of

Antithesis

.  It goes up the left side of the bright green stripe.

This goes up the inside corner to the right of

Polaroid

.  It goes up the corner where you can get a couple fingertips in.  Be careful to stay right of

Bonzoid Corner

, it is not necessary to use that crack for this climb.

Right of

Face Full of Bush

is a narrower crack.  Climb up this crack using face holds in addition to the finger/hand crack.

To locate this route, look for the first, large south-facing wall at the Zoids, coming from the north.  There are large blocks beneath the right part of this wall and the wall that makes up the corner.  FFF is the obvious overhanging finger crack at the left (west) end of the wall.

The route is pretty fun, but some of the rock is crumbly (needs a little cleaning) and the pro to start is not that good.  This is why it gets the R rating.  The rock quality at the start is not too good, and I don't think a cam would hold very well.  At the undercling, a reasonable cam or two may be placed, but this is it until you've made the first crux move.

The only other spot to place a bit of gear before the crux is needed for your hand to jam.  Moving into this sequence is really fun.  If it seems harder than 11b moving up to the bulge, you're missing a hidden, mini-jug.  There is another crux moving past the bulge.  Before cranking this crux, there is an opportunity to place some more gear.

Since the whole route is overhanging, it is a little pumpy, but you get a break at a ledge before the last little boulder problem.  Getting started at the end is a little insecure, but pro is easy to place at your head.  You get some nice exposure to finish up.

In the middle of the Zoids, between the Falls Wall and the Projects, is a bolted arete.

The climb starts off on a lower tier left of the yellowish arete, leading to a ledge and the arete. The crux of this route is getting to the first big ledge/ clipping the first bolt. The start is a good boulder problem in itself leading to easier climbing (despite a cactus) on the arete with obscure holds.

Eds. This is a combination of 2 submissions for the same route consolidated to avoid confusion.

Climb the face left of

Caucasoid Crack

.  Don't give in and use the tempting hole left of this route.

Climb cobbles to a rest ledge, and pull the final roof approximately eight feet right of the chimney.

Left of

Fall is in the Air

are two black streaks.  The far left streak is Sedated Raccoon, a face climb.

Left of

Fall is in the Air

are two black streaks.  The right streak is Petting Zoo.  See the photo under

Sedated Racoon

.

Start on slab right of

Poloroid

, go up to crack 3 feet left of left-facing, inside corner (

Caucasoid Corner

).

Find the climb to the South of the obvious downclimb between the Falls Wall and the Zoids.  The crack is a striking clean crack in a dihedral.  Start the climb by going up an easy slab to the base of a hole.  Climb the dihedral, stemming to the plentiful face footholds.

Climb up the face left of

Face Full o' Bush

.

This route is on a northwest facing section of the Zoids.  Look for the crack with a bush growing in the middle of it.

Go up a terrace to the start of the route.  The climb is short but has good trad moves with a few face holds also.  Be prepared to get a face full o' bush!

The climbing stays to the right of the crack, which is only used in one spot with the left hand. The line parallels the crack to the right, and it is really a face climb.

This entails cobble pulling up some steep stone. It has a 5.12a start, and the last moves to the top are maybe 5.12b.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Zoids