Scramble through a tree onto a ledge and peer up into a double crack system leading through some scary looking rock to the top of a spire. Climb moderate crack and face stuff being careful not to pull anything loose off. Place pro in both cracks to protect, but beware of loose stuff. We knocked as much as possible off, but will have to do more when we return. The wide section looks daunting, but protects well with a #4 and #3 placed in the back. My #4 was walked for about 10-15 ft during the FA as I only had one. I'm sure a #5 or 6 would be welcome if you've carried one in for "Throatchoker -- we didn't). Good face holds help get you through the wide crack. Continue past the first ledge to the top of the spire. Currently you can single line rap off webbing and a quick link (early Dec. '15), which I'll replace with proper LDE style anchors as soon as I return.

The Coop Scoop

Touching the Coop

Chicken Cordon Bulge

The Last Chicken

Coop du jour

Free Range

Going Out Of Chicken Sale

This climb is not on the Coop itself but rather on the tower immediately west of the Coop.  The two towers are connected by a natural bridge formed by several blocks.  Touching the Coop is on the northeast arete of the second tower.  It's necky 5.10 but the thrill is worth it. 

  While the natural bridge is well away from the route, we still respect its mass!  Therefore, we broke with tradition and installed a "clip and lower" anchor at the top of this route rather than making the leader top out.  Please check the carabiners at the top before lowering.  Note that the carabiners are part of the anchor, please do not remove them or your ropes (and everyone else's) will be badly twisted when pulled. 

  Start by scrambling up to the left side of the arete, placing gear in a crack.  Clip a bolt, move onto the arete, and climb up a few moves (5.10).  The gear is good but tricky and a bit spaced out in places.  Some committing moves and a second crux lie just before the second bolt.   

  This climb is for a solid leader at its grade.

Fun route starting in the right leaning crack on the east face of the Coop. Start on The Last Chicken, clipping it's first bolt, continue on moderate terrain in the prominent crack to a ledge. Continue up the north face, pulling an airy bulge. Finish up the crack system on the northeast arete.

A very good, challenging route on the east face of the Coop.  Start in the wide V shaped slot near the middle of the face.  Clip a bolt, then head up and right in the main crack until a thin, discontinuous crack leads straight upward.  Follow this crack until you reach a bulge with a bolt.  Pull the bulge and head straight up to the anchor.

Two cruxes, both are protected. A bit sustained. And, a bit spicy near the top (the climb lets up considerably; A long fall is possible, but it my opinion the fall would be safe).

Free Range follows the thin crack system directly under a huge wedged block on the west side of the Coop. 

  Belay at the base of the formation to the right of the climb.  Start by scrambling up 20 feet up 4th class terrain to the base of the route.  Clip two bolts to gain the intermittent crack system.  Follow this feature placing tricky but solid gear and clipping two more bolts.  The anchor is just below the wedged block.

Very fun, moderate traditional line. Start in the left most crack system on the east face of The Coop. Continue in the crack, placing a wide range of stoppers and cams to the crux ~2/3 the way up. Step left toward the wide slot near the top. Belay at summit. Rappel The Last Chicken (single 60m).

A 90' tower south of Entrance Tower. Routes are on the East face. The climbs are often shaded and the rock quality is among the best in LDE.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Coop