Climbed 7/18/70. Per the Hill guide, scramble to a notch on the middle of the west face and climb a grassy ramp. Climb a steep gully to the ridge proper and continue to the top. Guide rating is 5.5. Summit note from the FA says “Some aid used on two pitches.”  Aid section is about 10+, not 5.5. 

Upper South Ridge

Crujida de la Reina

Crujida Puta

Crujida Fria

Tihs is the obvious wide crack up the left side of the blank face of the lower part of the Castle. The climbing is fun and of a wide character. There is no rap station at the top of the crack, so either build one or continue up the ridge to the top of the Castle (best option).  

  This is a reasonable way to skip the 5.11 climbing of the direct line of Crudija Frio.

Climbed Fall of 1976 per the Hill guide. Look for the longest crack splitting the face of the Castle. From the base of the face, you can see a piton about twenty feet up and right. Head for this pin and then stay in the right most crack.  

  Climb for about 120 feet to a nice stance at two good pins, about level with a small pine tree. Move about fifteen feet left to the crack with the pine tree and then climb to the top.

This route climbs the first 100 feet of Crujida Puta and then continues up the face for 120 feet of independent climbing where it joins the South Ridge to the top. It is a grand adventure, from the terrific and scenic approach to the final wild exposed ridge that finishes the Castle.  

  Pitch 1 is fantastic climbing on featured rock with crisp (though sometimes fragile looking) edges and cracks. It stops at an OK stance with two good pitons. 10+ or so.  Escape left to the tiny tree for the aid climb. 110 feet.  

  Pitch 2 continues up the face with intricate but good protection. The difficulty increases as the face steepens. The climbing is very fun and techy rather than powerful. Belay on a great ledge. The pitch is about 11b/c. 125 feet.  

  Pitch 3. Steep and engaging climbing takes you through a sticker bush about 30 feet up, then back right to the ridge proper. Belay at the base of the final headwall at a nice stance. 5.8, 150 feet.  

  Pitch 4 goes straight up the head wall, passing a fixed nut. About 60 feet of steep climbing, then 4th class to the top of the formation. About 10+. The climbing is fun and the protection is good but requires a little thought after the fixed nut.  

  Pitch 5. Traverse along the top of the Castle ridge. Difficulty is low 5th class. Be alert for loose blocks and be careful. Despite a little looseness,  the exposure and position of this pitch make it a lot of fun. 200 feet to a nice tree, then walk off.

The Castle is a prominent rib off of the ridge that separates the Chimney Canyon complex from Mummy Canyon. The smooth face with two prominent cracks is obvious from the La Luz trail.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Castle