(Update 5/17/15 - The left hand crux gaston crumbled off, so the line is a bit harder. See comments below)Fun pulling on painful crimps. With great feet through the difficult moves, it's really a hand-beta challenge. Find the answer that makes the most sense for you!Start on low jugs just right of tree stump, pull up through painful crimps to crux triangular flake above head-height. Gaston up left and finish on jug above the big horizontal shelf, or continue through to top.

Firecracker Crimps

Decode

Spectacle

Re-decode

Roadside Warmup

Roadside Warmup Ledge Top Traverse

Spectacle Direct

Mad Max

Quahog the Clown

Heaven (Roadside Direct)

Recode

Tricycle (Roadside Traverse Right)

Dell's Lemonade

Ding-a-ling

Tall fun jug haul that is steep and long enough to make a great warm-up. 

  Head up the wide hand crack in the right facing corner near the left side of the crag until you can follow good holds out over the smooth orange face to the right to gain a sweet rounded juggy angling flake.

Sit start with hands on opposite sides of the large block, right on a good edge and left in the crack. Pull up and establish on the two triangular peaks at the top of the block. Crux is getting the right hand pinch up on the arete and hiking the right foot high in order to get a really good (no hands needed) knee bar. From here it isnt too hard to get a good but sharp left hand crimp on the face and finish with a big move up to the juggy top edge of the arete. Easy top out to the left.

The left departure from the Tricycle/Heaven sit.   

  Move right Hand up onto the sloping lip, keeping left down on underclings until you get too spread out.  Pop up to a shallow dish deep in the break, match, move left on improving edges until you can reach the sharp jug/block at the top of Firecracker Crimps.

Kind of squeezed between decode and recode but think it's good enough to have it's own page.  Start as for decode/recode, move left hand up to sharp gaston crimp, get high right foot and lock off to reach right hand to the decent crimp in the middle of the face (the left hand before the lip on decode).  fun movement, watch out the left hand crystal crimp is crumbly

A contrived little traverse to get the blood flowing. The shortest little wall at the crag, and the first one you come to.

 This micro-route is redeemed by the outstanding quality of the holds, which are universally well-shaped, open handed, and high-friction. 5 or 6 moves and gently overhung. You can do various versions of the traverse, short straight ups and eliminates.

A slightly longer traverse that uses only the top for hand holds. Sit start at the far left using a selection of top holds all similar in size. The feet are bigger but the two larger low shelfs are off. Topout once you reach the arete. 

The direct version of Spectacle, and probably the better of the two lines. Start sitting to the left of the original start with your choice of hand holds, I used a quartz undercling for the left hand and a sloper jug with my right. Stand up into the undercling and dead point to the first crux hold on Spectacle. Pull the crux on Spectacle and once you get to the pinch, top out straight through the roof utilizing a unique 4 finger pocket and a side pull crimp rather than traversing all the way left into Firecracker Crimps. Significantly harder if you're 5'8" or shorter, significantly easier if you're taller. 

Sit start and gain the bottom of the big flake. Move left a couple moves on the angling seam and before getting to the big rest hole, head straight up the face using horizontals, a rounded crimp and a reach with the left to a good edge. Keep it together and top out.There is a positive side pull for the right hand for bringing your feet up near the top.   This is a really fun route.

The most logical and exciting line at the crag; goes directly up from the common start with Tricycle and Spectacle.Have fun finding your way to the big blocky pinch/sloper. Once you're there, flag under to gain the horizontals and enjoy solid moves up excellent flakes to the easy highball finish.

Start as for Decode ("Sit start with hands on opposite sides of the large block, right on a good edge and left in the crack.") and move left to a set of crimps roughly at waist height. Get your foot up on the huge ledge as for decode, using toe-hook/cams move straight up using a vertical seam for the right hand and a several crimps on the left hand side leading up to a slot. Match up on the slot and continue on up to the juggy topout.

Traverse right on nifty slopes, edges, and pockets until you reach the bomber "handshake" jug with your right hand.  Head up into the horizontal seams (left is better) directly below the beautiful right-facing flake left of the notch.  Follow the flake up to the 5.5 topout.   

  Alternatively, since there is no longer a tree blocking the way, keep traversing right as long as you wish.

It was before he started selling computers. 8 feet right of the triple trees (stumps now), sit start at an orange flake. Pop right to a layback hold in the seam to the right, or skip it, than again to a good flake. Move up and left to a kneebar in the hole and then slightly left again to top out the high face. Staying right is more tenuous and harder.

25 feet right of the triple trees is another tree. Make a low sit start between the tree and the big undercling flake on the left, left hand on a sharp undercling in the hole. Pop up to an edge with your right and use pockets to gain the top of the big flake. Head straight up to a pocket and a crystal edge on the upper face.

This is a great spot for an after work session, being two minutes from the car and facing southwest so it gets great lighting at sunset. Some of this ledge is seriously highball/solo territory, so a short rope may be a good idea, especially for checking the cleanliness of the top-outs, but usually the highest ones ease off as they finish. This orange and gray wall is overhanging in places and fairly long.  

  On the left side is a short block with the Roadside Warm-up traverse and a couple contrived but fun routes on good holds, then the highest part of the main wall, with it decreasing in height as you move right. 

  Further right is an overhanging section covered with chunky holds where you can contrive lots of routes, but it currently needs a serious cleaning.  

  Continuing right, after a breakdown, is more of the nice orange rock with half a dozen somewhat broken up routes and variations on overhanging, comfortable jugs and slopers. Not a bad spot to warm up.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in RoadSide Wall