Boulder problem on lead (and I agree that the start seems harder than 5.10). Smear on nothing and crimp on close to nothing with very compression style climbing moves to get to the first bolt. Climb the overhanging pump-fest after clipping the second bolt. Finish on either of the three variations. Style points for not stick clipping, but STICK CLIP RECOMMENDED!

Three variations after the second bolt.

1) Stay left of the second bolt and left of the small arete for the hardest variation and then climb straight up to the anchor.

2) Use the small arete but continue climbing left of the arete for a slightly easier variation.

3) Climb right of the bolt onto the same finish as Between The Betwix.

All fun variations to do. If you are top roping get in your last days burn and try all three finishes in a row with either the Two Step (harder) start or the Between The Betwix (Easier) start.

Two Step

Playing In The Lemonade

Golden Overhang

Psychotic Reaction

Electra

Pink Flamingo

Respirator

Chim-Chimney

Caterpillar

Energy Czar

Golden Shower

Instant Karma Direct

Temporary Tradition

Handle With Care

What Else Is There To Do?

Castle Corner

Rediscovery

Fourplay

Rocky's Roof

Sadistic Rhythm

Between the Betwix

Instant Karma

Butcher of Baghdad

Start cliff left of the two sport routes in the crack system that leads to the roof.

Wes Love and Doug Reed were ballers and I've learned that they were pretty tall. I can usually onsight most 5.10's but I've been shut down on their 5.9+ routes (Sadistic Rhythm). Due to height and reach difference(but probably mostly because they were ballers) most of their routes I have to upgrade. This route is no exception.

After struggling for about twenty minutes to try and get the onsight. I fell. The gear is subtle, creative, not straight forward. The rock quality is mostly good but the cobwebs are evidence of this route not being frequented often.

I was informed by my belayer that he believed the route connected to Two Step at the roof. Examining the topo, it does seem to connect but I'm talking to Wes Love to find out if they went Direct like I attempted and later finished (not ground up yet, next time) or if the topo is correct.

Regardless, jump on this route on top rope by using a directional on the anchor for Two Step and Between The Betwix.

***Great end of your day burn. On top rope, climb Psychotic Reaction, Two Step, and Between The Betwix back to back. I almost did it clean. Have fun!****

Direct start to Golden Shower. Same start as Golden Overhang, climb cliff right to the small seam parallel to the Electra (5.10c) bolted line.

Follow the crack system past the Electra anchor all the way to the top.

Use the Electra anchor to break this route up into two pitches or bail from less traveled traditional climbing.

A 70 meter rope will allow you to rappell from the tree at the top or walk off from Davids Castle Backside.

Top rope this route from the Electra(5.10c) anchor.

The not often climbed Golden Shower (5.9) starts on Electra(5.10c) and then trends left onto the natural seam running parallel to the Electra line.

Golden Overhang(5.10) is the left variation start to Golden Shower(5.9).  I'm not sure if it has been done before but more than likely it has. The crux to this climb is the overhang near the bottom and the gear is tricky through out the whole route.

Climb it in two pitches or one long awesome climb but be careful near the top the rock is less traveled.

The bottom half of this route can be TOP ROPED from the ELECTRA anchor.

Technical moves on a steep face take you past a flake and a small overhang to anchors.

Start right of the arete. Follow the path of most protection to the two bolt anchor.

Start just left of Handle With Care (5.6) underneath a small seam that leads to a right facing overhung flake. Keep trucking past the overhung flake and the climbing mellows. Top out onto the first ledge and then continue up the next fun easy section of climbing to tope out or walk off.

The overhanging right facing flake is the business, so study it well before you venture into tricky gear territory. Otherwise pretty mellow climbing if you can keep it together mentally. Protects well before and after the flake.

A great top rope for introductory climbers but a natural anchor will be necessary.

Choose either start to What Else Is There To Do?

1)A "5.7" finger crack that felt much harder while having to plug protection into.

2)A "5.8" hand jamming crack that felt much easier due to the bomber hand jams while plugging in gear.

3)I'm pretty sure you can scramble up to this ledge from the Pink Flamingo chimney for an easy way to bypass the harder starts.

Once established on the ledge (removing the briars on this ledge took 20 minutes... not fun). Climb the chimney feature cliff left of the 'What Else Is There To Do?' slab.

This feature protects well with straight forward gear placements scattered up the chimney. You'll arrive a a ledge with a huge boulder and tree where you can set-up a Top Rope or continue on to the top of Davids Castle Wall.

I recommend topping out but you'll have to set up your natural anchor just below the top out. Don't use any of the DEAD TREES to anchor from.

Grunt your way up the splitter chimney. Feel the exposure as you worm your way past overhangs, teetering close to edge of the chimney. As you near the top, you can either roll out left onto the steep, sharp face and head up to a small tree (better for toproping), or continue to tunnel your way up the chimney to the top.

Start right of the large obvious chimney.Climb the steep corner to an overhang. Continue up the face to anchors at a ledge.

Start on Electra (5.10c). After the second bolt traverse cliff left on to the seam that runs parallel to Electra (5.10c). Follow this crack system all the way up to the top of Davids Castle towards the big pine tree. Build an anchor to belay your second up then scramble off or rappel off of the OOGA CHOCKA rings (if no one is on the route).

Options -

1) Shorten this long pitch into two shorter pitches by traversing right to the 'Electra' anchor. Rappel from here to avoid having to walk off but you are cutting short this long sustained route.

Start on the crack/face that leads to the left facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral to the ledge under the small overhang. Climb the technical crux leading past the small overhang to mellower climbing. Climb past the aged rusted anchor.

OPTIONS-

1)The most common option is to climb to the Energy Czar anchor. A top rope set-up will require a directional. Keep your anchor short for less rope drag over the ledge.

2)After climbing to the top, I truly recommend it. The rock is less traveled but the gear options are bomber and abundant. The climbing feels 5.7 and there is a great wide vertical crack for a bomber natural anchor. Bring up your second and walk off or use a 70 meter rope for a top rope set up.

I feel the anchor should be replaced. Since most people stop at the Energy Czar anchor, the replacement anchor should be moved to the top of the cliff! It could then be an easy access Top Rope set up for INSTANT KARMA DIRECT, TEMPORARY TRADITION, and CASTLE CORNER. The rock would clean up after more traffic. A win-win for everyone.

Do a hard boulder problem up to a bolt, followed by an aging fixed pin. Climb tenuous face to the Energy Czar anchors.

I was pleasantly surprise by this route. Look for a small left facing crack/dihedral with a sweet jug ledge on it's cliff right face.

Crack climb or lieback on this well protected start that leads to four more sections of casual, exposed, traditional, climbing on less traveled rock. Although the climbing is casual the rock quality is less than ideal. The protection is good for Crowders standards, if this route saw some top rope action it would clean up well.

Build a natural anchor for a top rope set up. A great climb for introductory climbers.

A fun corner towards right end of David's Castle Wall.  Climb the short face to the dihedral, then follow it to the top, where you pull a small roof to a tree.  Walk off to right.

Climb the left side of the flat wall/arete combo. Really long traditional climb for Crowders. Low overhung crux and a high slab style layback crux near the top. The rest is fun sustained climbing with a lot of small gear options.

I highly recommend this route for the experienced trad climber who doesn't mind exposure.

According to the old school locals, this route was scampered all over on back in the 80's by the original FA crew but it was never documented. Considering the quality of the climbing minus a rotten band at the lip of the roof, it is hard to believe the route never made it into any guidebooks. It was most recently rediscovered, cleaned off and nick named.

Climb the crack 5' left of Rocky's Roof. Continue up the right facing corner and then on the orange face up and to the right of Stupid Roof. Cut left over the roof through steep jugs with feet just above the lip of the roof. Climb up and left until over the center of the roof. Scramble straight to the top just left of the two small shrubs. Many cracks and pillars can be protected / slung to set up a natural belay anchor at the top. If rappelling or TRing, a 60m rope will barely reach the ground depending how high or low you set your anchor.

climb friable rock up through the "4" to the top.

Less traveled climb due to the reputation that Crowders trad lines have received.

Pretty amazing route when taken to the top. The hot spice is pulling the roof near the ground but then you have two more distinct sections of different styles of climbing. A fun route for the adventurous traditional climber. Old school 5.10 traditional route so maybe stout by modern ideals. Don't take my word for it, you be the judge!

Locate the wide, right leaning, diagonal crack and follow it out onto the face.

More information soon.

This route may be the easiest of the three short routes under this roof.

A boulder style start stands between you and the first bolt. Recommend stick clipping the first bolt. Pull the roof at the second bolt. The anchor is located on the fat ledge above the roof.

Start in the Instant Karma Direct corner.  Step out right across a pocketed face to the arete. Continue to the Instant Karma Direct shared anchors.

'The Butcher' rarely sees any repeats because of it's sustained, sharp crimp, face climbing style.

Start on 'Energy Czar'. Trend up and right after the third bolt. Two options here.

(5.12)- Staying right of the bolt line was the original intention of this reachy crimp option.

(5.11+)- Staying slightly cliff left of the bolted line yields a technical, crimpy, but less reachy alternative to the (5.12) variation.

Originally this route shared an anchor with INSTANT KARMA DIRECT(5.10d) but this anchor is in need of some repair. Climb up to the ENERGY CZAR(5.10c) anchor located on the big ledge.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 04. David's Castle Wall