Climb cool slab moves with bolts for protection to a horizontal break between the 3rd & 4th bolt which takes a ~.5 inch cam well and makes the crux feel much safer.

This section of rock between the 3rd and 4th bolt is definitely the crux and may have crumbled a bit in the last few years. I climbed this in 2012 and it felt spot on for 5.9, I climbed it in the early summer of 2018 and it felt slightly tougher and again in July 2018 and I backed off because it felt super thin and sketchy. I'll admit it could have been the heat but It still seemed like holds were a bit smaller and harder to use.

Dirtbag Direct

Barbie Mud Flaps

Armed Forces Crack

Ragweed

good for nothing

Right Angles

Six Digits in the Hole

Earthmover

Janetors of Justice

New Frustrations

Climb the face past two bolts and a patch of grass, to the dirty corner below the roof.  Clip some more bolts while skirting the roof on the left, and finish up the crack above.

Crux is thin face climbing and arete slapping after 2nd bolt.  rest of climb is much easier, but still fun.  After clipping last bolt, move up and right to shared anchor.  No stars in guidebook, but certainly deserving of at least 1 or 2.

Obvious splitter hand to finger crack on right side of crag.  Starts out easy, steps left to excellent left trending finger locks, finishes with crux thin face moves after crack pinches down.  Save a small cam (red C3 size) to protect crack prior to crux face moves.  A bit soft for 10b.

Also known as Air Force Crack.

This climb shares the same start as Barbie Mud Flaps at the base of the arete.  After a few feet, move right and follow a line of bolts up past a few cracks where you can place gear.

Good for Nothing is actually good for something, a fun route with some tricky moves, mantle, horizontal crack, face climb up to ramp leading left to anchor

Start low on side pull and crimp, hit the sloper and climb the left facing rail.

Gear protected mid fifth climbing leads to 3 bolts on a prow.  Climbing is consistently 5.9-5.10 past the bolts, with crux near the third bolt.  A marginal TCU can be wiggled in above the last bolt to "protect" the exit.

Climb the big dirty corner, then make two fun leftward traverses under roofs.  The finish bumps righward over another small roof, to sparsely protected face climbing, and then the chains.  Watch rope drag, and don't get lost.

This route would be excellent if it were cleaner.

Thin face climbing past 2 bolts and a fixed pin leads to a small puzzle at the roof.  Pull up into the solid crack above and climb up to a leftward traverse around another roof.  Finish by pulling right over a smaller roof, to a sparsely-protected face and the chains.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in JY Crag