Similar to 'Unknown New Route' to its left, a crux at the 1st bolt followed by easier climbing capped off with a lower angle run-out to a hidden anchor.

Right of Unknown New Route

The Gambler

Glitter Grind Sister

Sweet Pain

Pain in the Neck

Pain Relief

Sour Pain

Sister of Pain

Unknown New Route

Glitter Gulch

Lee Press On

A-Cute Pain

[Redacted]

2 new routes to the far right of the Sweet Pain wall.  They're not in Jerry Handren's guidebook, or here on mountainproject.com. 

  The second from the far right is probably 5.7.  Lots of holds, great beginner route.  The holds are still a bit friable as the route is new.  Well bolted except for a bit of easy runout at the top.  Crux is getting to the first bolt but it's 5.7 max. 

  We didn't do the first but guessed it would go at 5.9 or so, and it has it's own set of anchors at the top.  However those are not rap anchors and do not have chains.  You'd likely have to leave something up there to pull your rope through it. 

  If the folks that put this up would like to add comments, and route names, that would be great!

"Bolted by  Richard Harrison, Lisa Harrison, & Michelle Locatelli, The Gambler is a memorium to John Rosholt, a.k.a. The Gambler. This route gets better with each ascent. F.A. by Richard ,Lisa & Michelle early Oct., 2005"

Link up starts on Glitter Gulch for 3 bolts then moves right into Slave to the Grind for 3-4 then finishes on the last bolt or 2 of Sister of Pain. We clipped a long sling on the last bolt of Slave then stepped down to do the final traverse.

The namesake climb is pretty good (and soft for the grade?)... climb up very steep rock past some sharp incuts.  Fun moves.

This route may have been named for the difficulty in getting to and clipping the first two bolts. 

  Near the far right end of the Sweet Pain wall there is a big rounded bowl inset into the wall. 

  Climb up and into the bowl of rock, clipping one bolt. Reportedly this route can be done at 5.10a by moving right, up and then back left to the second bolt, but this seemed broken-up and less of a natural line to me. As well, I watched a 5'2" partner try to pink-point the route this way, and she was unable to get to a good stance to clip the second bolt this way, eventually electing to pass the crux, then clip it below.  

  Climbing up and left for the first few bolts felt like insecure 5.10c, but was a better and probably safer line. Climb past 3 more bolts on easier terrain to the fixed anchor on top of the route.  

  This is not a good line to push your limits on.

A nice combination of delicate balance, powerful bouldering, and edgy face climbing, all in the first three bolts. After that the climbing eases considerably. 

  The crux is getting above the second bolt, which you should high clip with your feet in the bowl, since getting much higher than this before clipping the second bolt would mean a potential ground fall.

Climb up to and then follow the flake, before moving right to finish on the crimpy headwall.

A couple of hard moves right off the ground lead to some slab moves. A no hands rest on the diagonal ledge, then fight the pump on the overhanging wall above.

Begins on a ledge...first route on the left on this ledge.  Sweet Pain is about 40' to the left.  Big holds lead to the first bolt.  After that, small holds get you to the second bolt.  After the second bolt it's big holds, great feet and super-fun steepness.

This one has gotten harder over the years as holds have broken off. A crimping nightmare. After you finish this one you will feel like you just pulled on razorblades.

At the far right end of Sweet Pain Wall lies this short system of a few bolts and a left-leaning crack in the middle. It is the easiest route on the wall.Climb up and right past a bolt onto a right-leaning crack. Follow this briefly (moderate climbing) until you can step left to juggy holds and another bolt. Pull onto the steeper face here and continue up past another bolt to a set of fixed anchors up top. 

  If you place gear in the crack a longer sling will keep it from walking or creating Rope Drag.

Immediately right of Glitter Gulch, Slave to the Grind starts with a long reach to a rail.  Steep face climbing with a tricky crux around the third bolt.  Climbing eases towards the top.  Although given an 11b rating in the Brock guidebook, I felt it to be closer to 11c.

Characterized by its swath of overhanging 5.11 climbing the Sweet Pain Wall is one of the gems of the second pullout and oh how sweet it is!. Though not as sheltered from the elements as its nearby cousin The Black Corridor afternoon shade makes for a pleasant outing year round (especially in the summer). Usually sought out for its stellar harder climbing more recent route development has opened the door to a handful of climbs easier than what one would historically find at Sweet Pain.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sweet Pain Wall