This is a relatively short but dicey sport route that has decent hands, but it will sketch out all but the most ballsy. [Find] it about 25 yards to the north of the gigantic roof. [This] can be [top-roped], via two bolts at the top.

Gun Control

The Good Bad and Dirty

Snowdens Intro

Chimney

This is a classic Castlewood hand and finger crack that has seen many aid ascents.  Approach via the Cave Trail, then turn left at the base of the cliff, pass under a large block leaning against the cliff and  locate the obvious hand crack about 15 feet right of the "cave." This nice line has three cruxes with the last 10d crux at the very top--a memorable climb.

Start on a block to the right of the line, then move up under a small roof for the first crux.  A #1 Friend can be placed below the roof in a pocket, and if you reach high, the #0 Friend (or TCU) can be fiddled into the thin crack.  An old fixed pin has since pulled out (since the guidebook publishing), but the micro cam was pretty solid (technology, baby).  Crank this first roof (9) using face holds up to a large ledge.  An old 1/4" bolt is on the ledge for extra security.  The second crux (9+) comes in moving off the ledge.  The rock is undercut so no good footholds help you get established with a good jam.  Anyway, jam (thin hands) to get off the ledge, then move into the meaty part of the route--a nice hand crack.  Use a #3 and #4 Friend through this section until you're established below the final roof.  A decent armbar rest is possible while you shake out the pump from the jamming below.  A good #3 Friend can be placed high in this roof to protect the final moves, which are exciting and exposed.

The anchor on top can be made in a thin crack with small-medium stoppers and a #9 hex.  Downclimb via a 4th class ledge system to the North.

From the southern (left) end of the cave wall, ascend the lower tier by a nice hand crack in a left-facing dihedral.  This is one of the nicer cracks I've done at Castlewood.  If this were a climb by itself it would be three stars.  However, the upper part is not as aesthetic, but I still give it two-stars.  At the ledge, ease onto a slabby ramp that begins the second half of the climb.  Up above climb up a right-facing dihedral.  A few jams lead to a wider part in the crack where you must reach into, get your feet and jam the protruding fist crack.  One last chimney/ twin crack move gets you to the top.

Scramble up to the top of the Cave Wall right above the cave.  There are two chimneys.  One is wider, and if you look into it, you can see light.  This is the one you want.  Drop a rope down it and belay from the top.  Once down, check out all the graffiti.  Not cool at all!  Chimney your way back up.  Look for features in the rock.  This is recommended as a beginner chimney climb as it can get wet in there.  Pretty cool.

Description

Protection

Routes in Cave Wall