The main crack system west of the Crescent Crack climb is The Great Chockstone.  It is obvious because of the monster "chockstone".  The 1st pitch is about 75% chimneying, and not many chimneys are too enjoyable, so plan on blood and frustration.  After the chimney opens up, you can attain the belay ledge, right above the chockstone, by climbing very easy ladder-like ledges.

The 2nd pitch has no chimneying, but it does have a slightly overhanging section that seemed to climb more at 5.8 than 5.7.  It climbs up and left of the main crack system attaining a gritty but easy slab that you traverse across for the finish.

Once you reach the main sandy ledge, the exit is up and west.  Continue west and down, until you pass Hand Jive, and then Crack in the Woods.

Enjoy and bring the band-aids.

Great Chockstone, The

Lazarus

Final Link

Unknown left

Razor's Edge

Rotert's Rooter

Crank in the Woods

A Kat That Grumps

Crescent Crack Direct Variation

Missing Link

Back to My Roots

Journey to the Moon

Who's On First

Unknown right

Crack in the Woods

Lunge or Plunge

Ross Connection, The

Hand Jive

No Jive Arete

Kutcorner

Fairweather Variation

Crescent Crack

Slam, Jam, Thank You Ma'am

Multiplicity

If Looks Could Kill

Waterslide

Mexican Crack

Grunting Gringos

Ross Route, The

Spanish Fly

3 Amigos

Interplanetary Voyage

Short Corner

C.P.O.S.

Less Than Zero

Closet Lycra

Paraplegic Ward

The initial section requires some pretty thinky chimneying and is blank at times with tricky pro, so don't pass up a placement when you have one. Gain the crack and bring your Off-width boots for this moon-landing! Chicken wing, arm bar, heel-toe and pray your way up to the 1st belay in an alcove. Pitch two ascends the obstacle-course of chockstones and chimneying to the top. Very physical and dynamic climbing. That's one small step for man, one giant step for Wasatch-kind.

P1

: This pitch starts the same as the first pitch of the Great Chockstone. Stay outa that squeeze! 5.6 and fairly easy if you stay on top, outside, rather than go for the tight squeeze.

P2

: From the top of the chockstone belay, instead of heading left as for the Great Chockstone, head straight up then right past some awkward undercling corner moves (5.8 crux). Climb up to the slanting ledge, then head left to a short crack that gains a nice belay stance at a slung boulder. This pitch can be broken into two if rope drag is a bummer.

P3

: Climb up the slanting, low angle, but awkward corner. Belay at a multi stalked scrub oak. (5.7)

P4

: Originally, I think the climb went straight up the cruddy gully, or, across the top of the Crescent Crack Buttress face (no pro, very shallow ledge catwalk, 5.7ish). But, you can head up and right, placing pro in the undercling crack for a short distance, then face climb to the last two bolts on the Final Link, which makes a great finish to this fun route.

Full value old school classic!

Stem up through the spike from the Crescent Crack Direct variation and clip first bolt.  The crux here is to not pull on the draw and do the cool mantle onto the slab.  Clip next bolt then set up belay at the two bolts.  Beautiful slab that wanders a bit left and right.  runners could be helpful on a few of the bolts to reduce rope drag.  If done as the finish to Crescent Crack this route has it all.

In-between the Waterslide and the sport climb on the far right is a fun route on small edges, thin cracks and a little slab. Climbs up to one high bolt, then chains.

TR can be set by rappelling the Crescent Crack/Razor's edge rap route.

Like Thomas Hobbes said, "nasty, brutish, and short".  Pump out right on imaginary smears, then power up the lieback to wobbly jams to top out.

This is a tough climb!  I'm not sure how the fa duo started it, but I found a thin and reachy sequence up the slabby face below the roof. Turning the roof is definitely the crux, but stay psyched for the runout above.

Approach this via first climbing Mexican Crack (or after rapping Hand Jive).  This is two cracks right of Hand Jive (in between is a rightward diagonaling hand crack).  Climb the ricey finger crack passing two bushes en route.  At the second bush, traverse left to the anchors for Hand Jive to rap.  One 60m barely gets you to the ground - watch the ends of your rope.

The direct variation to Crescent Crack is a good way to finish  the topout of Crescent Crack, or as an approach to the bolted slab, the Final Link (5.9).  Instead of traversing down and right at the sloping shelf on top of pitch two, continue up the dihedral (thin, 5.9).  Pass a piton on the left, then work up through an awkward section to a ledge.  From here, Final Link works left with a hard mantle and a bolt, or finish by heading right and up.

This is a great route that doesn't seen enough traffic.  You start by doing the first pitch of the Great Chockstone and belaying on top of it.  The second pitch is the business and is a bit scary getting to the first bolt.  The climbing's not too hard but the pro is kinda sketchy in flaring cracks - don't fall.  Once you clip the bolt, you continue to the small roof which you traverse under to the right.  Use TCU's or small nuts but leave room for your fingers.  The crux is pulling out right and getting established on the arete where there's a thank god pin.  Then more spicy slabbing past two bolts gets you to a nice belay.  The third pitch is more face fun at 5.9.  After passing a few protectable cracks you end up on the Final Link slab which you can join half-way up and continue on to the top. From here you can wrap down to the Coffin with a single rope.

Stem the tree till your in the groove then continue up dirty but perfect hand jams. Either traverse out left and up a 5.8 crack or finish on the last bolt of multiplicity.

Just to the right of

The Great Chockstone

, is a steep bolted face with some grooves.  Climb the bolted line on the left up some nice smears.  When you achieve the ledge, prep yourself for some thin liebacking to the top.  I believe there is an optional extension of the climb that clips 1 more bolt on the way to the base of the offwidth on

Crescent Crack

.

This is a good warm up for Multiplicity. Along the trail to Crescent Crack you first pass a wall on the east side of the canyon (the same wall where Waterslide 5.9 and Easy Corner 5.6 are located). The route on the looker's right passes two bolts and then continues up the top of the arete, passing bolts not visible from the ground. Climb to the first set of chains, or continue traversing another 10 or 15 feet to chains above waterslide and easy corner.

Keep walking uphill from Crescent Crack past Mexican Crack until you see two chimneys and a couple of bolted routes.  To the left of the chimneys is a 60' finger and thin hand crack - this is it.

Climb a few feet up an easy chimney, and then climb the steep but bomber thin hands crack over a small bulge.  Mostly 5.8 with a couple of harder moves.  There are chains at the top, or better yet continue up Hand Jive.

Just right of Crescent Crack, is a thin crack/seam that doesn't protect well.  It requires thin fingers and teeny tiny toe jams, until well... you Lunge or Plunge.  Watch the flake near the top as it seems like it is going to come down soon.

In the gully that The Great Chockstone starts in, are 3 routes on the right wall.  First, from left to right, is Who's On First a bolted slab route, last is Multiplicity, a bolted arete climb.  The Ross Connection is in between these two, climbing right along a ramp to a set of flared grooves.  These end on a ledge and allow you to start a second set with better gear.  End at the anchors.

Pitch two climbs off the anchors right past the tree and down-climbs a bit of Crescent Crack until you can traverse into the thin crack with maybe one good piece (Blue Wild Country), and maybe a second (Yelllow Metolius).  Work up this crack/slab until you can get to the chicken-head, traverse right to the pile of jumbled boulders, and set an anchor.  Nothing after the 2 pieces is possible, so if the second falls, he could get bloody on a slabby pendulum.

The book calls this a 5.10c.  We felt it was easier, 9+ or 10b depending on who you ask.

The book also gives this an R/X rating.  We both felt a flat R was better, if you use the tree.

Hand Jive is generally approached by climbing Crack in the Woods first, or you can climb the chimney leading up to the crack.  It is the appealing-looking thin hands crack above and right of Crack in the Woods.

From Crack in the Woods, downclimb into the chimney and undercling out right into the crack system.  Liebacking and jamming leads to a bolted rap anchor, which will just barely get you to the ground with one 60m rope.

This pitch felt harder and more insecure to me than Crack in the Woods.  I'd give this 8+ or 9-.

Great route with tantalizing slabby face climbing.  A tenuous start protects the awesome arete.

Historical trivia: I think Kent put this up the morning of his wedding day.

This chimney is to the right of the 2 left-most bolted routes on Crescent Crack Buttress.  It's only use is to approach  Paraplegic Ward, and A Kat That Grumps.  Ugly climbing that finishes even worse.  Still better than sitting at home---barely.

slab with 2 bolts and a peg in the crack. feels a bit run out above the 2nd, but probably only cos its dirty ( bring a wire brush) . Dont be tempted to escape R to the arete, go straight up on inclusions, you know you want to!

Lower off the tat/mallion around the suspicious chockstone.

This is a pretty great route on the verge of being two stars due to a kind of lame traverse on the last pitch.  However this can easily be remedied by the Crescent Crack Direct Variation plus or minus Final Link (although this increases the grade to 5.9).  Overall I still give the climb three stars as the rock and moves are just so good for a relatively easy climb and it puts you in a great position to finish the climb in a much better style.

When you hit the buttress from the trail hike left until you come to a well worn dirt "platform" below an angling groove gully.

Pitch one:Climb left up the chimney in the gully through to some trees.  There are some great easy crack moves here, very well protected.  Probably 5.6 climbing.  If you only have a 50 meter rope you may need to belay at the trees as I am not sure if it will reach the chain anchor above. (This would cause the climb to be three pitches.) A 60 meter rope will reach, so continue up past the trees to the belay anchor.  There is a move of 5.7 perhaps as you pull a bulge reaching the anchor.

Pitch two:Climb the crux offwidth above the chains (5.7), kind of hard to protect.  I don't want to give the answer away, but there is an easy way to climb this and a hard way.  See what happens.  This only lasts 10 feet or so and then you are on an angling crack moving up and right.  You will come to a point where you will have the opportunity to traverse down a sloping slab to the right. BE SURE to protect the second here as you traverse down.  Belay at the big ledge.

Descent:Scramble up right and then down the gully.  It is a walk off.

FYI: To put this climb in perspective, the first time my partner and I roped up to climb this classic we were joined by a guy who was soloing the route at the same time.  I think he lapped me about 5 times while I methodically climbed the 2/3 pitches.  It was impressive, and I am sure he was doing laps before we even got there.

I gave this route two stars out of four, but I have a feeling that many would probably give it one star or less.  Sure, it's short, has some crumbly rock, a loose block or two in the crack, a few spooky gear placements, and a fair amount of awkward moves.  But it's also a pretty cool, steep line that requires both endurance and finesse.  I'd also give a couple stars to C.P.O.S. (located just to the left), so if you hate that route, you'd probably hate SJTYM too.

Here's the route description:

Start by pulling into a shallow right-facing flake, move right into a right-leaning groove, and then do a committing bellyflop/mantle to gain a small ledge with a fixed pin.  It looks like you could also gain this ledge via easier ground to the right.  Climb the left-facing flake/crack above.  Getting into the flake/crack is pretty tricky, and a little scary with that ledge right below you.  Follow the flake/crack to a bolt, and do a few balancey face moves to top out on a large slopey ledge.

This climbs the prominent arete between Crescent Crack and The Great Chockstone.  A fun romp up this arete.  It starts on a thin ledge then moves up with some finger moves.  Continue up the arete, using a couple of mantles.  Pop over the really thin moves before the large ledge.  Then the final 2 bolt-stretch requires creativity and a good eye.

Just east of Crescent Crack the climb is a face with two bolted lines, this is the left line.  Very thin friction is the story here.  Continuous, and thin.  The 1st bolt is high and not easy climbing.  There is 1 nice chickenhead on the entire route.  Enjoy!!!

On the east end of the Crescent Crack Buttress, is a 1-bolt route.  This is a short delicate face climb that uses the ripples well.  The crux to me seemed to be getting to the 1st bolt.

Mexican Crack is located toward the west side of Crescent Crack Buttress.  It is the obvious left slanting crack seen from the road.  Usually crowded.  Start in dihedral up to jugs and pull onto face, delicately run up the seamy cracks to the leftward turn, smear feet below crack with hands in the crack to the chains.  Good foot work saves the arms for the top of the route.

This is the route on the arete to the right (15' and east) of the start of Mexican Crack. Start the route with large holds on the arete next to the trail, that eventually become balancy.  Clip a fixed pin, and commit to a balance move.  Clip a brand new 1/2" bolt then finish the route.  This route joins the 3 Amigos Crack to its anchors.

After completing The Ross Connection, you are below a slab with two routes.  The left route is The Ross Route.  It starts with a bit of unprotected but easy mantling followed by a ledge traverse left.  Clip the one bolt (which is a bit low for my taste, and get to and complete one heinous mantle.  If you fall on the mantle, the ledge could cause injury.  After the mantle, it traverses left into a wide but easy crack.  It ends at the anchors for Razor Edge, just below the finish of Crescent Crack.

Solid jugs and pro get you started, keep traversing on good holds until getting too the first bolt, get your "highstepping" on and you are through the crux and too the second bolt. the remainder of the climb is featured and engaging.. would recommend bringing a brush

Thanks to several recent ascents, this has cleaned up quite a bit.  The rock is still gritty and sharp, but it isn't chossy.  The vegetation has been removed, making for a more pleasant experience.  Climb up the finger crack systems on the right face of the corner.  This is a technically challenging and interesting section that can be made easier towards the top by chimneying in the corner.  Once safely established on the ledge, sink two pieces before making your move on the heady crux.  After all, you don't want to break your ankles.  Once in the midst of the crux, you're ankles are in jeopardy, so have your TCUs handy (my ankles are grateful).  Lieback, barndoor on a sloper up to a stance and reach for a jam.  You're practically done, so hike through the remainder of the crack to the anchors above the bigger ledge.  Don't despair if your head won't let you attempt the crux, you can lead up the corner and try the safer top-rope alternative.  This route is best climbed in groups of three.

It's really a wonder that this line gets a star in the Ruckman guide--what a flog!  Begin in a brushy corner just uphill and to the right of Slam, Jam, Thank You, Ma'am.  Climb the slabby corner up and into a squeeze, then wriggle your way out and along a flake until it's possible to pull back into the slot above, which is gritty and features loose rock.  Oh, and I almost forgot--the moves getting into the initial squeeze can be wet--and loose.  But, perhaps, I'm just a bit biased--I did get throttled by the thing, so you may just want to go find out for yourself...  Giv'r!

On the East end of the

Crescent Crack Buttress

is a 1 bolt route.  This climb is the corner to its left.  It is short which detracts from it, but otherwise it isn't too bad.  It starts as a hand crack and then a weird traverse under the roof, using chickenheads, then it works up a finger crack, until you can traverse right over the "groove"y face and up to a chain anchor, which is set far back on a ledge.  Watch the rope drag.

Classic Piece Of Sh#! is just that A classic that will ever bring up frustrating and grueling memories. The route lies just around the corner  to the right of the mega classic Mexican Crack. It starts in a left facing dihedral above a slabby ramp. It's steep, pumpy ,and very sequencial.  The lower section climbs an easy crack with juggy flakes to the left. There is a shared bolt with the very cool Less Than Zero. After this point the climbing is in your face. The Crux is a left handed jam with a right hand crimp high in the crack.and move your feet on to a bulge in the crack. Taller guys will be major scrunched and every one will be wiggin out. I've blown it many times here, pulling gear and falling a lot farther than expected Woot! woo! Keep hold of the crimp  and slide into another left hand jam. A good stem is to be had witch allows for a moment to collect your thoughts for the move around the arete. Feel for the nubbins and commit to the other face. From here it's smooth sailing to the chains following a finger crack.

Short pumpy route with fun moves up a steep wall.

Just right of Crescent Crack the climb is a face with 2 bolted routes that share anchors.  Closet Lycra is the right-most.  The seam is the obvious weakness with which this climb starts.  This, however, provides a decision making process.  Do you put in the brass which will interfere with your fingterips, or not.  Going from bolt 1 to 2 is the crux, however the traverse to bolt 3 still holds your attention finished off with a fun mantle on the arete.  From here the climb eases considerably.

This is the large off width crack, to the left a little and up from Kutcorner. Using a 70M rope, we used the anchors on top of Hand Jive to toprope this climb. This crack looked easy on rappel but climbing it was a whole different matter. We didn't climb Kutcorner, but started from the very bottom and climbed this weird chimney to the left, up to the Kutcorner chains. Once you are up there it is obvious why the Falcon Wasatch Guide labels this as a 5.9 A0 or 5.11. From the chains you'd have to make the thinnest little friction moves to get to the crack. We both took the rope swing. A bolt has been placed above the chains to make the aid swing but because it is straight up, swinging from the bolt might be difficult.

Description

Protection

Routes in Crescent Crack Buttress