Miss Money Penny is a fairly new route and a nice addition to the area.  Scramble easily up onto the massive block and clip the first bolt.  Stare at the confounding bulge.  Hurl yourself upward through a dense 12c sequence that requires an odd combination of brutal lockdown strength and cunning technicality.

The first couple tries I didn't know if I liked this thing - it seemed impossible at the grade.  When I accidentally figured it out, it really made my day.  The remaining climbing is considerably easier but really fun, and the rock is cool.

Miss Money Penny

The Flamed, The Pumped, The French

men of iron

surf's up

catch the wave

Chili Dog

Unknown Short Warmup

Best For Your Stick

Promised Land

Mr. Peg Leg Speed Work

Clutching At Straws

Sex Wax

Corn Dog

Dough Daddy

Take It To The Bank

close to the bone

Take It To The Bank is a fairly new route on an old panel. Whoever put up this route (and likely the 2 new ones to the right) did a good job seeing these lines and putting them together. It is kind of a non-typical, harder Shelf route - not a whole lot of heavy crimping or brutal pocket pulling on this one. If you are a boulderer, this should be right up your alley.

Begin up some jumbled blocks to a slightly chossy, right-facing dihedral. Cruise up on easy climbing, with the worst looking block, 'the plank', actually being pretty solid. The dihedral quickly gets harder as it arcs over into an undercling that fades out. Make a surprisingly pesky traverse to a blunt arete of sorts, and get a poor shake. A monster move to a pitbull mini-jug, followed by easier-but-not-cake climbing will get you to the anchors.

If you nail the PMJ, do whatever it takes to make it to the chains - you really don't want to fondle this hold too many times....

Slap up the overhanging arete on generally very good rock and fun moves to a gnarly, overhanging, mantle finish.  I had always wanted to do this route and finally got around to it. It is short but fun.

this route is probably worth doing once, if only for the sake of completely climbing the crag out.  begin up slabby black rock with pockets and dishes to a really, really high first bolt.  you can get some small cams in at a spot or two to help out, but the rock might not be super solid.  from the bolt, make committing moves upward to easier ground.

when i did it there wasn't an anchor on top, so i downclimbed a bit and traversed around the arete to the right to anchors on another route.

this is a really good route, with tricky technical pocket pulling and feature fondling.  if the protection was modernized it would be a 3 star route.

this is the right most of the 3 routes on the central panel.  start up salmon colored flakes, past a low bolt.  carefully make your way upward on holds that are not 100% solid to a really high second clip.  you do not want to come off here - it would be pretty bad.  after clipping the 2nd bolt and getting your ducks back in a row, launch upwards through sustained, tricky sequences through 2 more bolts to the anchor.  superb climbing through here.

this is the middle of 3 routes on the salmon colored central panel at the peg leg wall.  begin at a slight right facing offset and layback carefully up to the first bolt.  from here an excellent sequence of pocket climbing, including one of the sweetest pockets at shelf, gets you through the 2nd bolt, and up to a hard clip at the third bolt.  get this clipped and engage the heady climbing above to the anchor.  this stretch isn't hard, but it isn't easy, and it is a bit pumpy given how far above the last bolt you have to climb.

This is a really good second or third warmup route that will likely be a steady pick for your rotation if you spend much time up here.

Start in the corner and make your way up and left on great holds to get started.  The climbing gets steadily harder, with some shopping for holds on overhanging terrain. Bust over the bulge and onto slabby ground to the anchor. Some of the upper pockets can be muddy after wet weather, but overall the climbing is really fun on this one.

This is a decent little warmup route for the crag. The book gives it 5.7, but it is kind of pumpy for the grade. It is not a destination route, but there is a complete lack of good warmups at the Peg Leg Wall, so we do it pretty much every time.

Begin up well-protected climbing on good, black rock to anchors halfway up the wall.

Best For Your Stick climbs a nice, little panel of rock that is very reminiscent of the rock at the Dark Side.  The climbing is somewhat technical, on tricky pockets and good edges.  This is a really good warm-up.

This route is described in the green Bob D. book as being 'better than it looks', and this is a true statement.

Begin up a funky, soapy, blue/grey/yellow limestone flake that is somewhat out of character for Shelf road.  Be careful with the top of the flake as you clip the second bolt.  From here, the character of the route changes drastically with steep, black, blocky limestone, transitioning to a slabby mantle and the anchors.  It is a really fun route.

This is a superb climb on fantastic rock. With modern protection, it would be 4 stars for sure.

Begin up a beautiful, silver/white face behind the small tree, making long reaches between excellent pockets. A long clip to a high 2nd bolt relieves the nerves a bit. A big reach over the roof begins what feels like a never ending journey to figure out the best holds and sequences on brilliant black rock, sometimes well above bolts, on this bafflingly pumpy slab.

Rejoice when you clip the chains on this completely forgotten classic. This is a great route!

This has great moves on vertical, thin feet and small edges and pockets.  Powerful and sustained moves will reward you with a clean finish to the top.  There is a mini-crux 8 feet off the ground and another crux 3/4 of the way at the top.  Continue past the first set of anchors for a 12a section above for 2 more bolts, or about 10 more feet of climbing.  The anchor on the 12a section is missing the right bolts, so I suggest downclimbing with personal anchors and rappelling off the lower anchors.

This is another burly warm-up at the Peg Leg Wall.  In previous guidebooks ,this was listed at 11a.  It is harder than

Best For Your Stick

but considerably easier than

Corn Dog

.

Begin from a table-like ledge (I recommend stick clipping first bolt), and make barndoor-ish moves up the face and arete, past many pockets and a couple more bolts to the anchor.  It starts out a little bit steep and ends up on lower angled terrain.

There isn't much chalk, so expect to spend some time figuring out which pockets are good and which ones are not.

Getting started is just the beginning of the problems on this short, fierce, little route.  Power up past 2 fairly spaced bolts on harder-than-it-should-be pocket and edge climbing.  It is kind of a heinous warm-up, probably one of the hardest 10c's at Shelf.

Begin up the left face of the dihedral and out to the arete past a low first bolt. The last moves getting to the high second bolt aren't hard, but the rock isn't great and you don't want to fall here. I had a foothold break up here, and there was some swearing....

Get past the 2nd bolt and up to a committing clip off a spooky, albeit apparently solid block, beneath the roof. Fire over the roof (trying not to break holds...) and up easier ground to an awkward clip at the anchors.

Overall, the climbing on this is ok (probably 1 star or so), but after breaking a bunch of stuff on this thing over the course of several ascents, I had to agree with my wife that it is kind of a pile. I think she put it best - "I don't want to climb this thing again, and I don't really want to belay you on it again either." I cleaned a bunch of stuff off of it, but be prepared for more loose rock.

this is another great route at the peg leg wall.  start up a flat face on long reaches between good pockets, with each move seemingly increasing in difficulty.  this culminates in a cruxy section through a bulge and a high reachy clip at the last bolt below the anchors.  a few more fun moves and you are at the chains.

the rock on this is pretty sweet - some nice black stone with cool features.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Peg Leg Wall