The late, great Derek Hersey considered King of Swords one of his favorite rock climbs.  The climbing is unrelenting, overhanging, strenuous, and intimidating, yet it also is varied, aesthetic, interesting, and memorable.  It is one of only two free climbs on the right side of the Diamond (so far), the other being the much more difficult The Joker (which, incidentally, is named after Derek).

The tenor of free climbing on the right side of the Diamond is noticeably different than the left (i.e. Yellow Wall) side.  Rock quality in the middle stretches is often fair to poor at best, with a decomposing, rotten nature, although there is some very good rock higher.  The wall is much steeper than on the Yellow Wall, and hence the climbing tends to be very strenuous and taxing, and the "feel" intimidating and exposed.  There can also be considerable seeping from snow melt on the higher pitches.

From North Chimney head right on Broadway and locate the first crack system right of the first major pillar (i.e. the Green Pillar; the dihedral is the start of the Dunn-Westbay).  KoS is identified from below as the crack system which crosses the right side of the obvious "S" shaped roof a third of the way up (although the route starts in a system left of this).

P1: Climb this 5.9 crack for 125 feet to a sling belay.

P2: Continue up until the crack ends and traverse right (5.10-), then up and right to a belay on the right side of a ledge. There are 2 fixed pins at this belay- these are the last fixed anchors on the route. It would be very difficult to retreat from above this point since the route is so steep, and all anchors would be your own gear.

P3: Step right and climb "The Torture Chamber", a rotten, poorly-protected 5.11a slot (the worst rock on the route- it crumbles in your hands); or climb the original line (slightly harder though better-protected) moving out of the slot and onto the wall to the left.  Set up a hanging belay 10 feet below the S-shaped roof; have several pieces up to 2.5" to make this anchor bombproof, and since it's hanging consider a butt bag.  A lead of the Torture Chamber has been described as a "Rites of Passage" pitch.

P4: Now tackle the strenuous 5.11- fist crack above (liebacking may work also), moving out of the crack right, then back left, up corners, to below a clean right-facing corner.  There may be slight variations to do in this pitch.  Belay at the highest possible stance directly below an impressive, clean R-facing corner (the Gilbert variation) at some bomber gear (1.5F, 2.5 F, large stopper).

P5: Climb the crux corner (this is the Gilbert variation)- certainly 5.12a if you stay in it at the start, but you can climb a wee bit left for 20' before entering it.  At the top step left to the top of the column and belay.  Or, climb the original line, the left side of the column, at a slightly easier (5.11d) grade.  If this climbing were on Castle Rock, it would be more like 5.11c, but up there...The Gilbert variation is one of the top 3 classic ".12a" pitches on the Diamond, the others being the crux leads of D1 and Ariana. It may be wet in places due to drips from above.

P6: Now proceed directly up the 5.11 thin hands crack above, through Table Ledge (an overhang here), up 30 more feet of .10d to an inobvious, wet .10 traverse left to a stance- another long pitch.

P7: Climb this crack to the top- wide, wet, and hard 5.10.  Luckily the gear is good on this pitch (some fixed pins, if you can find them under all the slime).

This is a great adventure climb, and folks with a better-than-average tolerance for poor rock could argue for a 3-star rating.  In 1995 this climb was linked with the Diagonal Super-Direct (V, 5.11d) on the Lower East Face in just under 11 hours.

King of Swords

D7 Variation

Casual Route

Bright Star

Beethoven's Honeymoon

Full House

Curving Vine

Black Death

Dunn Westbay

The Free Grand Traverse

Dunn-Westbay Indirect

Full Dunn-Westbay (aka Dunn-Westbay Direct or The Direct Dunn-Westbay)

Forrest Finish

Black Dagger

The Honeymoon is Over

Ariana

Pervertical Sanctuary

Eroica

Gambler's Fallacy

The Obelisk

Yellow Wall

Hearts and Arrows

The Full Dunn-Westbay frees the original

Dunn-Westbay

aid line. Josh Wharton had freed about ½ the route in 2011 at 13-, avoiding the 5.14 and 5.13- crux sections of the aid line by traversing over into Gear and Clothing. The original aid line follows one perfect crack line to the summit, and the Full Dunn-Westbay free climbs this system ledge-to-ledge in 4, 80m (80m rope required!!!) rope-stretching pitches.  It is the most continuous splitter route on the Diamond. No bolts were added for protection on any of the pitches. The immaculate rock, ample protection, sustained climbing, and spectacular position makes it truly one of the best multi-pitch climbs in Colorado. It is hard to believe things like this exist in the alpine.

Note: It is possible to split the crux pitch into 2 pitches by belaying (hanging) at the end of the 5.12 section on the crux pitch, it is unclear whether this changes the grade. Doing it as one mega-pitch certainly adds a mental crux. The proper route should be done ledge-to-ledge as Tommy Caldwell envisioned.

Climb the first 2 (or 3) pitches of

D7

(5.9-5.10) and belay about 15 feet above the left side of Crossover Ledge at some fixed pins.

1) Climb a steep section that goes up and left via fingers and face, past a couple fixed pins and a few fixed wires.  Gain the right-facing, left-leaning corner/ramp (easier climbing but a little awkward) and follow this to a 2-bolt anchor which is part of the rappel route (5.11a, 110 feet).

2) Climb the steep, right-facing corner above, which varies from hands to fingertips for about 90 feet, 5.11b.  Traverse right on a sloping ledge to rejoin

D7

above its crux headwall, and continue via the 5.11 crack above for another 50 feet or so to a sling belay at some fixed gear (5.11b, 140 feet).

Finish with the last pitch of

D7

(5.11a).

The Casual Route is an incredible climb at high altitude on the most famous wall in Colorado. This is the easiest route on the Diamond, but that doesn't mean it's not world class. The route includes incredible climbing with awesome exposure and high alpine weather. Although I have heard the route described as both stiff and easy for the grade, I think that the published ratings are quite accurate.

P1: Start in the middle of the wall at a less than vertical broken pillar. It is not hard to find. Pitch 1 is 5.4 up broken ground to the bottom of an obvious crack.

P2: Follow the steeper crack at 5.9 to a hanging belay 2/3 of the way up.

P3: A 100 foot 5.7 traverse with about three pieces of pro, two of which are fixed pins. This pitch is spectacular and has dangerous fall potential, although the climbing is easy.

P4: Climb up a dirty 5.8 crack and chimney to a belay about half way up the route.

P5: May be the best pitch of the climb. It leads up a steep 5.8 dihedral with a handcrack tucked in the corner. Belay halfway up the dihedral on a stance and continue up 5.8 to the Yellow Wall Bivy Ledge. The exposure hits you right here for the final, and crux, pitch.

P6: Climb up a really thin 5.9 crack with fixed gear to a 5.8 squeeze chimney. Trying to squirm your way up the chimney at 14,000 feet is about as strenuous as it gets. From here pull out of the chimney and perform the crux move, a well protected reach over a bulge on thin holds, 5.10a, and you're on Table Ledge.

P7: One last 5.7 traverse pitch leads to the exit onto

Kiener's

or the rap route.

Bright Star is a hidden gem and one of the more sustained 5.11+ routes on the Diamond. The climbing is high quality and offers some very unique face climbing throughout the entire route. I would say that Bright Star is much better than

D7

or

Ariana

.

P1. 5.11+ R. From the left side of the Broadway Bivouac Cave, start by climbing steep jugs to obvious, thin crack. Bust some 5.11 moves to gain an obvious ledge, this section is a bit spicy. Easy climbing leads to a piton just below an obvious, thin splitter. Spicy 5.11+ laybacking leads to easier 5.11- terrain to a nice belay ledge with fixed slings on a block.

P2. 5.11. Varied crack climbing and face climbing with good protection, steep and very fun 5.11, lead to a fixed belay just below a bolted traverse that trends left.

P3. 5.11+. Amazing, left-trending face climbing protected by old bolts gains a steep flake system. At the top of the flake, an easier 5.10+ ramp trends left. Keep your eyes out for the final 5.11 traverse back and right to a fixed belay on a good ledge.

P4. 5.11+. Spicy climbing above the anchor in a offset crack gains more juggy, face climbing. Near the top of this pitch, trend back to the right to a two bolt anchor on a sloping ledge.

P5,. 5.11+. Clip two copperheads above the belay, and traverse right to more old bolts. A very cool crimp rail leads to a thin crack that splits the wall. Burly 5.11+ laybacking in a right-facing corner, dealing with all the vegetation, adds to the overall experience of this pitch. Belay on a big ledge,

The Casual Route

shares this same belay.

P6. 5.10. The "slot pitch" on

The Casual Route

that gains Table Ledge. Belay at the ledge on pitons and cams.

P7. 5.11+. Climb the plum line just above the belay with varied sizes. Weave left on face holds, and climb to the left side of the huge roof. Belay above the roof to the right on a comfy stance.

P8. 5.11. Cracks and corners lead to the summit.

Although essentially a link-up, with approximately only eighty feet of previously unclimbed terrain, this is a fantastic route, and probably the most accessible 5.13 on the Diamond. It should become deservedly popular for people looking to up the ante from Diamond 5.12s, but finding The Honeymoon is Over and Gambler's Fallacy a bit much to bite off, and the frequent wetness issues on the Dunn-Westbay Indirect problematic. The nature of the climbing, with short lived, well protected cruxes, makes it an excellent candidate for no rehearsal, ground up efforts.

Begin by climbing the first five pitches of Eroica. (Possible in four if you link the two opening pitches.) After the crux of Eroica's fifth pitch, face climb right across jugs, passing another bolt en route to a two-bolt anchor at a small stance.

P6: 12a 50' Move left off the belay into the base of the obvious wide flake. A cam, or two leads to bolt protected, strenuous lay backing up the gaping flake, and a small ledge with fixed anchor. In comparison to the old school Eroica ratings, this pitch may be rated a bit softly, but it's fairly pumpy, especially if you're not well acclimated. Important: approximately ten feet into this pitch, and just to the left of the giant flake's start, there is a loose rail/flake feature. Resist the urge to grab it, as it could fall into the Casual Route. If by some miracle you find yourself with the cirque to yourself please trundle this flake.

P7: 13a 70' Undercling right off the anchor and join The Honeymoon is Over. Climb up another fun layback flake to a steep, bouldery bulge, and easier, but still tricky climbing to a fixed gear belay at Table Ledge.

P8: 12d 100' Continue as for The Honeymoon, but above the first bolt, avoid a difficult bouldery section by staying right in some fragile flakes, before underclinging back left into The Honeymoon, ten feet higher. More awesome underclinging, and lay backing leads pasts several rests to a heartbreaking long move near the end of the pitch.

P9: 12b 120' Traverse left off the belay past two bolts, to gear protected climbing up seams. A boulder problem finale, guards the very tippy top of the Diamond.

Notes:

It is possible to avoid sharing terrain with the Casual route by climbing the right side of the D1 pillar to a right facing corner/roof system located to the right of the Casual Route’s second pitch 5.9 finger crack. This helps avoid any issues with crowding.

The once spicy fourth pitch of Eroica now has several fixed pins and wires, and is very well protected.

After the

Casual Route

and

Pervertical Sanctuary

, this is probably the most "straight-forward" Diamond Route, although the free climbing rating is rather stiff (5.11c or d).  The crux is short and protects well, and is easily aided.  Climbers who find the

Casual Route

jammed, and don't have enough big gear for

Pervertical

, should consider attempting this at 5.9 or 5.10 C1 (or free), but plan on a longer day if you aid much (the entire climb is still strangely popular as a clean aid route). The climbing is generally clean and solid, with many relic fixed pins set as reminders that in its heyday, this was the most popular route on the Diamond (FA: Dalke, Goss, Hurley 1966 at 5.6 A2). D7 is also the unquestioned favorite for those few demented souls who climb the Diamond in winter.  The descriptions in Rossiter, Gillett, Wadman and Dumais are all accurate, but if you do not have access to these what follows is a brief narrative describing the route.

You have survived North Chimney.  Now locate the bivy cave up and left from the top of North Chimney and

Casual Route

. Traverse left and low (below the loose ledge leading to

Yellow Wall

start) to an exposed, 4th Class or lower 5th Class step which leads to the second prominent left-facing corner system from the cave (the first being the 5.11 start to

Yellow Wall

).

Climb several pitches of finger and handcrack (5.9) in corners and around small flakes to a short wide section of low-end 5.10 (a couple of pieces to 4" useful here) to a good ledge and a fixed anchor. If aiding, this wide section may be the crux. Climb the right and smaller of 2 right-facing corners directly above to a continuous section of stiff 5.10 and belay.  The free climbing crux looms above, a bulging section of white rock with parallel finger cracks splitting it (a fairly obvious feature).  Launch upwards, then strut your stuff on the pumpy-to-protect 15 feet of technical pulls where the angle steepens- classic, clean, and exposed climbing.  Belay on a small ledge, then climb a short difficult section (5.11a) leading to easier climbing and "Almost" Table Ledge (rap anchors).  Climb the easier rock above to Table Ledge and traverse slightly left to anchors (start of the rappels, which are "climbers left" from the route) or further left to

Kiener's

and the North Face Cables descent.

4 to 8 hours climbing time, although aid parties may take much longer- consider a bivy on Broadway.  There are several variations to this route (Soma and D Minor 7 are the major ones)and much opportunity for "mixing and matching" (it's even possible to head into Hidden Diamond or Curving Vine at one point), but really, D7 takes on the most compelling and recommended line between

Pervertical

and

Yellow Wall

.

Belay at 2 pitons, an old button head bolt and a slung flake at the top of the North Chimney.

Pitch 1:  Climb the first 30 feet of the Queen of spades in an easy gully.  After about 30 feet, traverse right 20 feet on a ramp.  Place some gear in the crack (reachy) and climb the vertical crack for 25 feet to a sloping ramp belay (5.9+, 80 feet).

Pitch 2:  Head up the fun hand crack for 180 feet, passing an old bolt belay at 90 feet, climb through the 2 foot wide gash on the left side of the green pillar and end on the most comfortable bivy ledge on the Diamond (5.10-, 180 feet).

Pitch 3:  Climb from left to right up a ramp for 20 feet, and than step back left into a steep right facing finger and hand crack for about 50 feet.  This is the left and cleaner of two parallel crack systems.  When the crack ends at an old bolt, climb a few feet to the right passing 2 new bolts via steep face climbing and liebacking.  Mantle up to a sloping ledge and a new 2 bolt belay (5.12, 100 feet).

Pitch 4:  Lieback and stem the corner to the left of the belay past a piton and through a small roof.  At the stance 20 feet above the roof, clip the abandoned belay and traverse left into a wide crack with some sugary rock.  Climb up the wide crack for about 20 feet until you are level with a new bolt at climbers right.  Clip the bolt and traverse right into the large left facing corner system clipping a second old button head on the way.   Belay on a decent pedestal with 3 fixed pins (5.11 60 feet).

Pitch 5:  Climb the amazing overhanging left facing corner system for 180 feet via thin hand jambs, liebacking, and offwidth.  Belay at a hanging belay with a old bolt and fixed nut (5.11+, 180 feet).

Pitch 6:  Climb up the wide crack for about 25 feet until it becomes possible to climb the crack system a few feet to the left.   Climb the hands crack up to table ledge (which is a series of roofs on this part of the diamond).  Climb though the Table Ledge roof via liebacking and insecure finger locks.   After getting established above the roof, climb up another 10 feet and over to the next crack system to the left.  Belay at a small stance on a flake (5.11+, 120 feet).

Pitch 7.  Climb up the crack system to an old bolt and pin belay (5.11, 100 feet).

Pitch 8.  Climb straight up from the belay through overlaps to a right-facing corner and up to the top of the Diamond.  (5.11- 100 feet)  The last three pitches are a half grade harder when wet, as was the case for our ascent.

Curving Vine is a quality route. It's not as popular as other Diamond routes and may be a good choice on those busy days.

I.e.

Fri., Sat., and Sun., and somtimes Mon., Tues., Wed., and Thurs.

P1. Find the start just left of

D7

and crank up the steep corner. not the best pro off the deck at .10b/c. continue up to two huge belay bolts (part of the

D7

raps).

P2. Climb out the left side of the roof and up a great, left-facing corner. Step left (10.b) at a pin and belay at a mess of old webbing and pins.

P3. Climb up and step back right. Follow this nice crack to the 11a crux just before a good stance. Belay here.

P4. Start up the crack on the right and do the annoying reach past a chunk-o-vegetation (5.10). Then continue up great 5.8/9 corner until it's possible to traverse left to

Pervertical's

4th belay. An incredible, exposed traverse and 5.7 to boot! There are two possible traverses here. Make sure and take the 2nd!

P5. From here, you're on

Pervertical Sanctuary

to the top. It's nice to have AT LEAST one #4 Camalot for this beautiful but sustained 4 inch crack.

P6. Take the 5.9 crack above to Table Ledge.

Keep in mind that you will be joining the quite popular

Pervertical Sanctuary

, so keep an eye on the traffic there and decide if it's better to race 'em or wait for 'em.

D1 is the quintessential Diamond climb.  Sustained and pumpy, some funky rock, great exposure, classic history- simply a great place to be.  The first route climbed on the Diamond, it was freed in the late '70s via a horrendous, wet 5.11 chimney above Table Ledge that may still be unrepeated. The original aid line left of this was freed in the early '80s, and provides a difficult and exciting finale.  The route is obvious, taking the center plumb-line crack system to the apex of The Diamond.

The first 200-300 feet is moderate climbing (5.8-5.9), lower-angle (at least compared to above) and a bit broken.  If you have a pack, it may be efficient to have the second carry the pack instead of hauling.  It is also time-saving to simul-climb the first 2+ pitches.  Stay a bit right on the "D1 pillar" and it is easy to avoid climbers on the

Casual Route

.  After this lower section, belay just below the obvious 5.10 overhang, on the higher of 2 stances.  Climb the overhang, and a stretch of 5.10 above; with long slings down low you can avoid rope drag higher on the pitch.  Near the top of the pitch skip the belay stance at the base of the overhanging handcrack (bail slings here) and continue up 20-25 feet to a small but comfortable belay ledge on the left with good anchors.  Now you can skip the cramped hanging stance (bail slings here) midway up the pumpy hand crack in the overhanging wall and go all the way to the bivy ledge in one long pitch.  Somebody should replace the bolts at the bivy ledge.  From here, one rotten 5.10c pitch gets you to Table Ledge, a cramped stance/alcove at this point.  Have a rain jacket handy, even if the weather is splitter, because drips from the ice plug can soak you at this belay.  At Table Ledge step left (or barge straight up the wet 5.11 offwidth) and tackle a pumpy boulder problem which leads to sustained 5.11 climbing.  This is a long pitch that is waaaay up there.  The final 5.8 pitch may feel like the crux...wet, icy at times, and runout.

Not everyone will agree with a 3-star rating, although some well-rounded Diamond climbers I know consider D1 the best Diamond climb.  It is not quite as sustained as

King of Swords

, but the crux pitch is probably harder than anything on the

King

, and the rock is better.  The crux pitch is among the best 5.12a Diamond pitches, along with the crux pitch on

Ariana

and the Gilbert dihedral variation to

King of Swords

.  Early season (June) D1 is often dry and climbable.

Black Death is the choss climbers' start to the outstanding

Obelisk

. Start on the opening pitch of

Pervertical Sanctuary

, and trend left, towards the obvious chimney (~60m from Broadway). Climb more or less directly up for another ~90m ending with a ramp at the start of the

Obelisk splitter

(~150m total).

Be prepared for lots of gardening, choss, and dangerous loose blocks. There are no established rappel options aside from D7, so one must continue into the Obelisk or adjacent routes.

This is a fantastic aid outing up the middle of the right side of the Diamond. This a real aid route on the highest alpine big wall in the Lower 48. Do not treat it lightly.

The crux is getting all the gear to Broadway. Hauling a haul bag up the North Chimney is NOT recommended because of all the dangerous loose rock. With wall gear, it's probably safer to approach via the Chasm View rappels. After the initial pitches, the climbing is thin and steep, but never too scary except when the ubiquitous thundershowers roll in. Keep in mind the sun leaves the face around noon, so be prepared for heavy weather. On our ascent in early August we experienced lightning, hail, snow, rain, cold temperatures and even a little sunshine.

We climbed the route clean except for P6 where my partner used a couple KBs and LAs. The route has been done all clean since then and it is probably easier to climb it clean on a few RPs than to drag a hammer and pins up and down the Diamond. The clean crux would involve making something stick in the Knifeblade slots, so bring some trickery.

Standard clean aid rack: hooks, cam hooks, 3 sets RPs and Offsets, 1 set Ball Nuts, 3 sets nuts, a few hexes or tricams, 2-3 sets TCUs, 2 sets Friends, 1 big cam (#4 Camalot or #5 Friend). Poop tube - please pack your nasties out!

Once on broadway begin right of the North Chimney on the right side of a large pillar known as the Green Pillar or Dunn-Westbay pillar. Note: Gear and Clothing follows the cracks to the left of the route and King of Swords follows shallow corners to the right of the route.

P1. Leave Broadway and climb up rampy terrain to a large right facing dihedral on the right side of the pillar. 5.8, 145 feet.

P2. Free climb a nice hand crack in a slimy, cold corner to a good stance or throw in an aid move to get warmed up for the dangling and thrashing to come. This would be a fun pitch if it were dry and in Boulder Canyon, but it's not. 5.9+.

P3 More free climbing or gear yarding in the corner. The crack becomes wide at the top. Arrive at the top of Green Pillar. Belay at a fixed anchor with a hangerless bolt. Possible bivy. 5.10, P2 and P3 are about 165 feet of climbing. Also, with a 60m rope it might be possible to just combine P1, 2 and 3 and make the top of the pillar in 2 long leads.

P4. Short pitch. Head off the right side of the bivy ledge on aid. Make a hook move somewhere around here and don't fall. Then follow a flake (cams) back to the left and head into an awkward slot (big cam) and belay at some fixed slings although it is probably better to continue and climb. P5. The remainder of the pitches and belays can be combined in different ways. There are some fixed anchors from retreats, but nothing compelling enough to dictate the location of the belays. It's sling belays to the top either way. Do what feels good and makes sense. C3-, 95 feet.

P5. From here the route finding is easy, take the crack to the top. Isn't the Diamond cool? Head up the crack to a sling belay at some fixed gear. C2-, 145 feet. ??

P6. This is the crux unless P4 was the crux. Nonetheless, this is a brilliant pitch. Get out the RPs and head up the thin splitter crack. Belay at a stance well below Table Ledge crack. C3 or C2+ (new wave) or A3 or whatever. "It's all A1 until you fall." 145 feet.

P7. Make some moves off the belay on small nuts and continue to the roof. Belay at the roof (fixed gear) or climb some of P8. Table ledge crack forms the roof. There is no Table Ledge here! C2 100 feet??

P8. Head out a few feet to the right from the belay and with big exposure climb through the roof. After passing a detached flake, belay. C2, 155 feet.

P9. Keep aiding towards the top and belay at the edge of the Diamond on a ledge. C1, 150 feet. Stay roped up.

P10. Another pitch is required to reach a good unroping point.

Note: Pitch lengths are approximate!

Descend the North Face via 3rd class hiking and rappelling the anchors from the old Cables route. Exercise extreme caution especially if caring lots of heavy aid gear. A slip anywhere along here will land one on "the other side".

This is a high-quality route that is certainly worth doing. Expect a bit more lichen than

D7

, but the cracks that are just as good (just not as polished yet).

The free climbing history of this route is somewhat convoluted. Consult Bernard Gillett’s excellent guidebook if interested. Bernard free climbed the majority of this route, but his toprope inspection of the headwall cracks revealed rotten and unprotectable rock above Table Ledge.

With Bernard’s recommendation, Ryan Montoya and I rappelled into the headwall and cleaned the next crack system to the left (and just right of

Eroica

). We found solid rock, great climbing, and a nice traverse over to the top of the original line (which has good rock at the top). The next day we sent the route in its entirety.

P1. There are three options. See the photo. 1a) original route, 10c roof, a vegetated crack. 1b) this is the route we took: A-frame roof with a bolt, stiff move off the deck (~10a), and trend right, then make a long, rising, leftward traverse. 1c) start in a left-facing corner at the left side of the

D1

pillar. Make a rising leftward traverse (5.9). Belay at some tat.

P2. Climb the excellent corner with good pro. There’s some lichen near the top, but it’s not too bad. Belay where the

Casual Route

traverse joins the crack system, 5.11.

P3-P4. Climb the

Casual Route

to

Yellow Wall

bivy ledge, 5.8.

P5. Climb the slot pitch of the

Casual Route

, and combine this into a traverse ~40 feet right (pass the belay for

Yellow Wall

headwall and a fixed pin) to belay at a very large but detached block. This is the same belay as after the crux pitch of

Eroica

, 5.10-.

P6. Climb thoughtfully above the belay and straight up the crack (not to the left, that’s

Eroica

). Climb the excellent crack to a section of crux face climbing that uses holds out right and stems to the left. I left a couple of specific fixed wires in this section, but you’ll want to place a few more. Continue to a belay stance in some dark rock. This pitch is pretty long and continuous (~50m).

The belay requires 2x #2 Camalot OR 1 x #2 and 1 x #1. See the photo.

5.11+.

P7. The “A3 Traverse” - similar in nature but with better protection than the A4 Traverse on the

Yellow Wall

. Climb above the belay, and then traverse up and right on good rock (a little runout ~5.8) to the base of some flakes. A seam to the left of the first one takes RPs, and the flakes take wires and small cams (fixed wire at the top of the second). Make a committing and fantastic move right into the left-facing corner, and jam to the top of the wall (mostly hands, other pro options), 5.11-.

The original free version of the

Dunn-Westbay

has been largely overshadowed by the

Full Dunn-Westbay

and

The Honeymoon is Over

. That said, when dry, it's an excellent route and a good introduction to 5.13 on The Diamond with great pro, a relatively short crux, and climbing that's a bit easier overall than

The Honeymoon....

To the best of my knowledge, it's only been repeated by TC and Jason Haas. All three of us resorted to Mini-Traction rehearsal tactics, but a ground up, one day ascent would be an excellent and reasonable challenge.

There is a decent topo on the original

Dunn-Westbay

aid route page and a quality description in Rossiter's RMNP guide.

The video from the actual FFA with conditions that were a wee bit "damp." The last pitch is actually a very nice 12a when it's dry:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1lfQyIWMv4

.

This route should probably be added to the database for a variety of reasons.  First, the current description under the

Yellow Wall

omits the last pitch, which is probably the crux of the FF, and second, the

Yellow Wall

is not the FF, and vice versa, as much as we would like to say we've climbed the

Yellow Wall

of the Diamond when we climb this variation (see comments under

Yellow Wall

).

I suggest the

Yellow Wall

entry in the database be revised to describe the actual

Yellow Wall

climb and not just the easiest path up this part of the wall.

Pitches 4-6 of the Forrest Finish involve pretty burly and sustained hand/fist crack climbing.  There isn't any 5.10 offwidthing as stated in the Gillett guide, but it's still pretty darn physical.  It goes without saying that this type of crack climbing is pretty draining at 13,500+, and will probably feel more like 10+/11- if you're not well acclimitized (as is usually the case).

To start, climb the first 3 pitches of

D7

or

Yellow Wall

to the right side of Crossover Ledge, each of which is 10-.  The

D7

variation to FF (called Komito Freeway) is actually the path of the first free ascent of the DIamond by Goss & Logan, though they apparently switched over to

Black Dagger

in the middle of the 6th pitch.

P4- From the right side of Crossover Ledge (with the

Black Dagger

slot looming above), climb up about 20 feet until you can find a rightward traverse that leads over to the FF crack system (5.9).  Climb the crack system to an obvious intimidating flare/OW.  Climb the OW with the help of a crack on the left (5.10) and contnue until rope drag stops you in your tracks and belay (150 feet).

P5- Continue up the crack system through an OW (guide calls 10a but it felt more like 5.8/9).  Rest and then climb the burly, sustained hand/fist crack past some awkward pods (10) to belay alongside the

Yellow Wall

bivy ledge (100 feet).

P6- More wide hands (10) leads to a good rest with multiple options above.  The

Black Dagger

system is the leftmost and looks like it is probably the easier way to go.  The FF takes the right variation and climbs a funky, insecure lieback (10) up into a slot.  Awkwardly climb the slot via a mix of kneebars and face features in the slot (10) up to Almost Table Ledge (150 feet).

The FF continues up from here via 2 more seldom-climbed 5.9 pitches to the top of the Diamond.  The usual option is to traverse left to a short right-facing dihedral where a pin protects a 5.8 move up to Table Ledge.

Descend following the

D7

rappel route (6 raps) to Broadway and then 4 raps to the side of the N. Chimney to the Mills Glacier.  The alternate option, which is probably faster, traverses over to

Kiener's

and follows that, skirting the summit, to the N. Face cables descent.  The disadvantage to the latter option is that you have to hike a grueling 400 vertical feet up

Kiener's

late in the day and that you can't stash your gear at the base of the wall.

From Broadway ledge, follow the first two pitches of

D7

or the

Yellow Wall

to Crossover Ledge. From here, the first pitch of the Black Dagger will become evident as the shallow, left-facing corner.

P1. Climb up the steep dihedral until you reach a splitter hand crack (thin hands). The crack widens to 4" for a series of exhilarating moves then returns to thin hands. 5.11a. 160 feet.

P2. Begin with steep finger jams. After 30 feet, you will reach the base of the Black Dagger chimney (this is the obvious, dagger-shaped chimney visible from Chasm Lake - and I-25 for that matter). The crux is grunting your way through a squeeze / slot that leads from the splitter crack below to the elevator shaft / chimney above (5.11a). The 80-foot chimney is enjoyable 5.7 when dry, but reputed to be wet at times. Belay at the top of the chimney below a large, ominous roof.

P3. Begin by exiting the Black Dagger chimney via the looming roof overhead. Stem your way to the edge of the roof (you will need double-long runners on any protection below the roof). Pull the roof and kick your feet out onto the face - very exciting! Above the roof, you will want a directional as the rope easily becomes stuck in the roof. There are two options from here - straight up is 5.11a OW with a bolt. Otherwise, traverse right about six feet and follow an incipient hand crack for 80 feet. Traverse left approximately 20 feet to Almost Table Ledge.

Rappel to Broadway.

The Honeymoon is Over is one of, if not the, most difficult routes on the Diamond. Although the

Full Dunn-Westbay

is technically rated higher (14- vs. 13c), the Honeymoon packs more of a punch (4 5.13 pitches) than the

Full DW

(1 pitch of 5.14-). I found the Honeymoon to be a generally harder day out mentally and physically than the

DW

, but the crux pitch of the

DW

is harder than any one pitch of the Honeymoon. This comparison highlights the complexity of rating multi-pitch free climbs with a single number.

The Honeymoon was established by Eric Doub in the 1990s, who worked the route for a number of years. Eventually, Eric passed the route off to a young Tommy Caldwell who fired it, practically onsight, in the summer of 2001. Tommy went up one day in early summer to attempt it and managed to free-climb the route through the crux 13c pitch with 1 fall until being forced to retreat due to wet rock. He came back in August and fired the whole route with no more prep in between attempts. Tommy's effort on the Honeymoon is one of the most impressive alpine free climbing ascents to-date given the extremely technical and difficult nature of the climbing and his almost on-sight ground-up style.

I did not have such good style and opted to rappel in over a couple of weekends....

Pitch breakdown:

Approach pitches: climb the first 2-3 pitches of

Eroica

, depending on how you break it down, to the base of the 11c stem corner on

Eroica

.

Pitch 1 (11c): climb the technical 11c stem corner of

Eroica

, and belay at a hanging belay at two bolts where

Eroica

traverses left.

Pitch 2 (13-): continue up the thin corner to a bolt below a small roof/overlap. Traverse right under the roof to a crack out left, and then punch it over the roof to a fixed hanging belay at 4 fixed stoppers (green Camalot backs up the belay).

Pitch 3 (13c): climb an ultra technical, thin RP seem with a 8 inch offset off the belay for 30 feet to easier climbing and some bolts. Follow the bolts to a small overlap and traverse right to a hand crack. Climb the handcrack up to a bolt out left on the face, and execute a difficult face boulder problem to a ledge stance.

Pitch 4 (13-): make difficult moves off the belay left to an undercling traverse, and follow this to a small corner. Climb the corner to a bolted overhanging boulder problem, followed by easier climbing to Table Ledge crack.

Pitch 5 (13-): traverse right to an obvious, hanging flake system with bolts. Lieback up the flake system past a couple of difficult sections to a bolted belay on a ledge.

Pitch 6 (12-): climb the dirty crack for ~130 feet to a small dihedral ~30 feet from the top of the wall. Execute a 12- boulder problem, clipping a fixed pin and a bolt, and then continue to the summit on easier climbing.

Class 4 traverse up and left from below

D7

to new bolts on Ariana 1st pitch.

1) (11a) face to (10b) LF corner, diagonal left (avoids 40+' of hummocks and dirt in right side of the Mitten) to large LF corner/

Pervertical

belay, 130'.

2 )Up LF corner, step right around to RF corner and to top of Mitten 70' (9).

3) Over slot, stem up shaft/LF corner system, traverse left past old bolt/fixed Friend to belay out right 180' (9+).

4) Crux pitch...up  finger crack, move left past shakey flakes, up sustained shallow RF corner/crack, inferior belay out right on sloping ledge, 120'.

5) Step left, back into RF corner, pump it to the top of the pillar and huge ledge 140' (11b/c).

6) Straight up inset, pass fixed pin, end on Table Ledge 150' (9).

Walk right to raps, or top out via

Kiener's

. "An Excellent Outing".

Pervertical is the second easiest climb on the Diamond, but don't let this fool you into thinking it is a cake walk. This is a serious route that can give you trouble unless you are good at all sizes of crack climbing. There are a few loose pitches, but the upper pitches are phenomenal and there is superb exposure. As with all the Diamond routes, it is wise to become familiar with the layout of the wall before attempting these routes (especially your descent route as the rappel anchors can be hard to find), or better yet go with someone who knows the area well. Begin on the far left side of Broadway on the right side of the Obelisk column.

P1. Climb the left side of the Mitten formation, aloose pitch with sparse pro (8, 130 feet).

P2. Climb the crack above the Mitten flake, and belay at a ledge on the right (9, 100 feet).

P3. Continue up the crack and left-facing corner to a bolt (manky), and gain a ledge at the right side of the Obelisk (9, 100 feet).

P4. The crux pitch. 11a handcrack (10c old-school) that will leave you gasping for air. (11a, 80? feet).

P5. The offwidth pitch. This is a four inch offwidth that is sustained but fun if you like wide cracks. Climb a right-facing corner on right side of Obelisk, and belay on top of this pillar (10a, 130-170? feet).

P6. From the right side of the pillar, take a steep crack to Table Ledge (9, 100 feet).

Traverse left to get to

Kiener's

or right to the rappel anchors.

Eroica may be one of the best lines on the Diamond. The climbing is sustained, the rock is incredible and each pitch has just the right amount of spicy to keep your mind engaged. This is an all-time outing and one of the better adventures in RMNP!

P1. Climb the first 5.10 pitch of the

Casual Route

, and belay on a small ledge with 2 pitons just bellow a thin seam.

P2. Thought provoking 5.11 climbing with a mix of thin cracks and face climbing. Belay on a sloping ledge with solid cams about 25 feet below the obvious, right-facing corner above.

P3. 5.11+ stemming in a perfect right-facing corner with some of the best rock on the Diamond! It's nice to have a solid set of RPs for this pitch, as the gear is thin but good when you get it. In the middle of the corner, a 2-bolt station was added for the Honeymoon is Over. Skip this station, bust left around the corner, and face climb up brilliant rock to a fixed piton/bolt anchor.

P4. Climb thin 5.11- off the belay with very little pro options until a fixed piton about 25-ish feet off the anchor. Higher on the pitch, a bolt protects a 5.12- section that trends left. Belay on a natural anchor to the left in a small corner.

P5. Climb strait above the anchor until it's possible to head right into a flared crack system. A bit of a spicy section above the flared cracks leads to an incredible traverse left into the crux sequence (5.12b). It is pumpy climbing with no stopper moves, hang on for the ride! Once at Table Ledge, head right 15 feet, and belay on a small ledge.

P6. Climb start up cracks above and right of belay for 30 meters, 5.11c climbing with good pro.

P7. A long 5.10 pitch with mixed cracks leads to the top of the wall.

Begin beneath

D1

Pillar at a short, left-facing corner about 20 feet left of the top of the

North Chimney

.

P1:

5.6 (65m).

Climb the left-facing corner, then wander up the face on moderate terrain to a small ledge beneath a steep, right-facing corner. The belay takes #1-4 Camalots.

Rack: all gear.

P2: 5.10a (30m).

Stem and jam the corner (p2 of D1) to its top, then tiptoe rightward on a narrow ledge. Face climb up and right, aiming for a large, left-facing corner. Gain a stance at its base, and belay at two pins (back up with small cams, nuts).

Rac : 1 each small cams, 2 each cams to #1 Camalot.

P3: 5.10a (45m).

Jam and stem the hands to offwidth corner to a ledge with a fixed anchor (two nuts, one pin).

Rack: 1 each: RPs, all cams; 2 each #0.4-2 Camalots.

P4:

5.11a (40m).

Ascend the attractive finger crack straight up from the belay until it peters out on ledgy terrain. Traverse left on edges beneath a wave of rock (5.7 R), then meander upward past a rotten hand crack to a large belay ledge beneath the giant corner (fixed nuts plus small cams).

Rack : all gear except a #4 Camalot.

P5:

5.11d (30m).

A tough boulder problem on shallow jams ends quickly at a big, sloping ledge beneath the corner proper. Battle the pump (and cold) up the Winter Wall Dihedral to a two-bolt hanging stance at its top.

Rack: all gear.

P6:

5.13b (10m).

The Sport Pitch. Climb a short ways to a jagged roof, and reach left to clip the first bolt. Work around the arête, then power up the overhanging face past 3 more bolts to gain Table Ledge and a two-bolt anchor out left.

Rack: 2 each #0.75 Camalot (in roof), 4 quickdraws, *a kneepad proved useful on the FA.

P7:

5.12b (30m).

Step right to engage the sustained, overhanging crack (often wet) past a small roof at three-quarters height. Finish rightward to a stance and two-bolt anchor.

Rack: all gear.

P8: 5.13a (25m).

The Roof Pitch. Climb the crack and face up to a bolt, then crank over the roof (exposed!) past a second bolt out left. Follow the seam upward past a fixed nut to a belay ledge on the right with two bolts. Precarious.

Rack: 1 each small-med cams, #2 Camalot, nuts; 2ea #0.75-1 Camalot.

P9: 5.12d (20m).

Work up and right past 3 bolts (thin) to a finger crack splitting the blank wall. Follow this to a large ledge, then go up 5 more meters to belay at the top of the Diamond (one bolt, large nuts and/or mid-sized cams).

Rack: 1 each #1 Metolius - #0.75 Camalot, nuts; 3 quickdraws.

Once you get to the Obelisk, the climbing is four-star, featuring splitter cracks that are cleaner and steeper than usually found on the Diamond. The route is in a south facing dihedral on the left edge of the Diamond.

The Obelisk itself starts about halfway between Broadway and Table Ledge. There are two standard methods of getting from TL to the first pitch of the Obelisk: via

Pervertical Sanctuary

or the Window Direct. Either of these approaches is problematic.

The

PV

approach climbs the first three pitches of

PV

(excellent climbing) then traverses left to the Obelisk dihedral. The traverse, if done from the 3rd belay of PV is said to be hairy -- 5.11R. [Gillett] writes than he once did this traverse in the opposite direction and it was not bad; he believes he probably traversed lower than

PV's

3rd belay. At any rate, this traverse is capable of gumming up the works.

The Window Direct approach, which we did, looks efficient on paper -- two pitches, 5.7 and 5.5. The first pitch starts just right of a huge, right-facing corner at the top of the the menacing snow/ice field which obstructs Broadway below PV; add an extra pitch for dealing with this obstacle. To avoid the snowfield, we traversed on the small ledge system that starts around

Yellow Wall

and parallels Broadway about 20' above it. We followed this easy traverse for more than a rope length until we intercepted a [vertical] crack system w/ some fixed pins (about 30-50' right of the huge corner). We belayed at the end of the traverse. We climbed the crack system upwards and slightly left for about 100', belaying just below a long ledge system of black rock; this pitch featured supspect rock, intermittent pro and was harder than the 5.9 last pitch of

PV

. The next pitch went up to the ledge system and traversed right for 200' w/ some up, down, left and right to the base of the Obelisk dihedral; though the climbing on this pitch might be 5.5 it includes bad rock, scant pro (including some Dolemite [style] fixed pins) and a culminating [vegetated], wet, protection-free slab with horrible rope drag. These two pitches of WD rate a Bomb.

The Obelisk: P1 (5.11a, 100') This 3* pitch which utilizes cracks of the right wall and in the corner is strenuous but not too technical. Extra hand size cams are useful. Belay at a worthless 1/4" bolt and a so-so ledge. If this pitch were more accessible, it might be considered the classic handcrack of the [Front Range].

P2 (5.10a, 30') Continue up the corner to a better ledge the base of the offwidth. This pitch could sensibly be combined with the previous, gear permitting -- a second yellow Alien would help realize this linkup.

P3 (5.11a, 80') A slightly overhanging 5-6" crack in the corner which ends atop the pillar, at a good ledge shared with

PV

. Gear: almost the entire pitch accepts #4.5 Camalots; a #4 Camalot would be next to useless, while a #5 would only be useful at the end. Supplemental gear, ranging from small wires to hand-sized cams, is periodically available in a crack on the left, but placing this gear sometimes obstructs coveted hand holds. Kneepad recommended for left knee. All things considered, this is a very fun pitch; again, if this were at Lumpy or Vedawoo, it would be the classic of its type and grade. Despite the guidebook ratings, I found this pitch considerably easier than

Crack of Fear

("10d") at Lumpy.

P4 (5.9, 100') The last pitch of

PV

to Table ledge, belay about 40' south of rap anchors. This pitch seems like a cakewalk after what preceded it -- if the weather is threatening, you can really motor here.

EXTRA BETA (onsighters stop reading):

P1: Climb the corner for about 10' then traverse into the crack; going straight up the crack is 5.12ish campusing on painful fingerlocks. Extra beta: have a #0.75 Camalot on a quickdraw ready to plug at the end of the traverse. After 30'-40' of solid (if strenuous) handjamming, the crack narrows down, seemingly to thumbstacks; at this point, despair mounts, until you realize it is possible to stem back into the corner and breath a sigh of relief, assuming you have any breath left.

P3: This is probably too obvious to be considered beta, but solid left side knee jams, sometimes with heel toe, can repeatedly be obtained. The right inside wall of the crack contains many hidden edges, particularly higher up. Getting started is kind of tough, but once you're moving the crux is about 1/3 of the way up; at the end of this section there is a a decent foothold on the right face, from which you can rest or at least hang out until gasping subsides; from this point the climbing eases [slightly].

The Yellow Wall was the second route up the Diamond, completed by Layton Kor in 1962 at V 5.8 A4.  Much of the route later went free, most notably the first pitch dihedral by Roger Briggs in 1976, and then later the "A4 Traverse" by Charlie Fowler and Dan Stone in 1978.  This last effort marked the free climbing of the original line in its entirety at 5.11b R, although several variations allow the climb to go free at easier and/or safer grades [Editor's Note: Credit goes out to

Patrick Vernon

and

Bosier Parsons

for their contributions to the Mountain Project database of the most common variation of the Yellow Wall and the A4 Traverse, respectively].

Find the start by following a narrow catwalk up and left from the Broadway bivy cave to the first, obvious, left-facing dihedral.  This corner has a few pins in it and appears quite thin from below.

P1: Hard moves right off the deck, climb the dihedral with imperfect but adequate gear until the corner disappears and turns into an intermittant hand and finger crack splitter.  Follow this to an obvious belay at 150' on some flakes.  5.11b.  Alternatively, beginning just right of the corner, follow a ramping system of flakes up and right, then back left, eventually rejoining the corner at about 75'.  This variation avoids the 5.11 at 5.7, but the climbing up the remainder of the original first pitch still checks in at 5.9.

P2: Continue up the steep crack system via very cool climbing and great rock.  The pitch climbs like a face climb but utilizes the crack for pro.  Also, much fixed pro on this pitch.  Belay on another flake/ledge.  5.9, 150'.

P3: Continue up the same system.  The climbing is very similar but a bit steeper.  High on the pitch there are several fixed pins and suddenly Crossover Ledge becomes apparent 10' to the left.  Clip a high pin and make a difficult move left to the ledge.  It may be possible to continue straight up the crack system, but Crossover Ledge makes a sensible belay.  5.10c, 150'.

P4: Above the ledge the crack system continues up and into Black Dagger.  Climb up off the right end of the ledge, and forego the Black Dagger by doing a wild, exposed traverse right.  Continue up and right to an obvious left-facing, right-leaning corner with a hand crack.  Up above this is the

Forrest Finish

(5.10c), a popular escape from/variation of the original Yellow Wall (climbing the Yellow Wall this way is known as the "Briggs/Candelaria Variation").  Belay about 15' below the A4 Traverse at a small stance; this stance is about 20' up the corner, and above the level of a few old rusty Leeper bolts that appear on the wall way off to the right.  5.9, 100', and a great pitch.

P5: The A4 Traverse.  In order to give credit to

Bosier Parsons

, I'm using his excellent description for this pitch, with some minor edits afterwards to serve as an update:

"This is a description of the A4 Traverse pitch on the Yellow Wall. I decided to add it to encourage those who aspire to climbing it. The pitch is excellent in quality and does deserve the rating given, but it is definitely very doable, and not horribly dangerous. If you've been wanting to climb this pitch but have been afraid of the serious rating, get up there and do it! If you want to attempt the pitch with minimal beta and have more of an adventure experience, do not read on.

The belay at the end of the pitch off of Crossover Ledge can be made at the base of the first wide section on Forrest Finish, or, it is better to climb the right leaning, left-facing corner, via 5.9+ hands to a good but small ledge about 30 feet higher. This is in the middle of the left facing dihedral that begins the A4 Traverse pitch.

From the higher belay, continue up the corner about 15-20 more feet via 5.9+ or 5.10- liebacking. At the nest of webbing with a couple pitons, hand traverse right for a couple moves, then mantle up onto the thin ledge. Once on the ledge, you will find a good piton, then a rurp with a very old piece of webbing. Continue traversing the ledge about 15 more feet to a fixed bashie, just below the crux move. This traverse ledge is very small and thin, but pretty easy to walk across. The bashie protects the crux move and is bomber. Believe me, I tested it with about a 20 footer (with rope stretch). The crux move takes you up into a shallow, left-facing corner, that involves strenuous liebacking with small footholds. This section is protected by one 5/8" angle driven about 1/2 way (but seemed decent enough), and then at the top by a fixed wire. I thought this corner seemed like sustained 5.10+ climbing for about 20-25 feet. At the top of this corner, pull up onto another ledge, and traverse right and up past some more fixed pins to a steep left-facing corner. Climb this corner for about 40 more feet of 5.10 with gear from 1/2" to 3". I placed my #3 Camalot for the exit move from this corner onto the large ledge where the route joins the

Casual Route

(still 40 feet below Yellow Wall Bivvy Ledge), but I'm sure many climbers would not need this piece of gear on this pitch. Belay here or continue up easily to YWBL (190')."

Updates as of August, 2007:  The nest of webbing at the top of the first corner is no longer there.  The pin at the start of the traverse can be backed up with a small cam placed a few feet above it.  The webbing on the RURP looks really bad, as does the copperhead, but a fall from the crux move would probably be safe, albeit terrifying, even if they both blew.  The pin in the second corner (above the bashie), seemed decent and it can be backed up with RPs and a 00 TCU, but the fixed wire at the top of this corner is no longer there.

I thought this pitch had excellent climbing and was well worth doing, although the fixed pro is pretty suspect.  If the gear held, as it did for

Bosier

, a fall would be no big deal at all.

5.11a, 190'.

P6: The

Casual Route's

crux pitch.  Continue up difficult finger cracks to a squeeze chimney to another difficult finger crack and belay on Table Ledge.  5.10a, 150'.

Evidently, most parties traverse off on Table Ledge at this point, but two more, seldom done and dirty/wet pitches continue upwards.

P7: Hand traverse 15' straight right on Table Ledge and then climb a wet, moss and mud choked crack system for 50' before traversing slightly left to a right-facing corner.  Folllow this up to the right end of the huge roof system above.  Belay at a stance.  5.10+, 120'.

P8:  Follow the right-facing corner above the roof via a wide crack up to the top of the wall.  Wet, 5.9, 150'.

Descend via the

North Face/Cables

or by reversing upper

Kiener's

and doing the D7 raps.

Begin beneath the

D1

Pillar, at a short, left-facing corner, about 20 feet left of the top of the

North Chimney

.

P1. Climb the corner, then wander up the

D1

Pillar on moderate terrain to a small ledge beneath a steep, right-facing corner, 5.6, 65m.

P2. Stem and jam the corner (P2 of

D1

) to its top, then tiptoe right on a narrow ledge and belay at its right margin, 5.8, 15m (can be combined with P1).

P3. Climb cracks above the belay for 15 feet, then traverse right toward a large, left-facing corner. Climb the sustained hands and offwidth corner past a two-pin anchor. Belay on a good ledge at its top, 5.10a, 58m.

P4. Ascend the rotten, left-facing corner until it slabs out (about 130 feet). Traverse thirty feet left (5.8 R) to belay at the base of a small, right-facing corner (this is where Hearts and Arrows deviates from the Enos Mills Wall). The belay is about 50 feet below the massive, right-facing corner that's pitch five of the Enos Mills Wall, 5.10b, 50m.

P5. Balance left around the sharp arête that forms the corner. Climb left and up with difficulty past two bolts and a pin. Continue up cracks to a stance below a steep, right-facing corner (Jack of Diamonds P5), 5.11c, 15m.

P6. Jam and lieback the "Horrible Corner" to its top. Continue up a left-facing corner to a hanging belay (one bolt, one pin), 5.11a, 27m.

P7. Climb the arête and face (fixed pin and nut) above the belay (5.10- R) to Table Ledge crack. Climb left a few feet then straight up double cracks (crux), emphasizing the right crack. After climbing a short chimney, belay on top of a large, black flake, 5.12b, 25m.

P8: Jam a difficult section above the belay, then continue up a solitary, overhanging crack (fingers to fists, 11b) to beneath a roof. Surmount the roof (10d) and belay at a stance just above, 5.11b, 30m.

P9: Face climb right into a left-facing corner with an offwidth, the last pitch of Enos Mills Wall. Struggle up the wide crack to the top of The Diamond, 5.9, 40m .

Description

Protection

Routes in The Diamond