The first thin face crack from the corner with a crux step over near the top

Slippter Crack

Lipstick

Clay Pigeon

Sundeck Direct

Worth The Wait

Join The Club

Scarface

Pickles for Pod

Twitterpated

Social Distancing

Rainshadow Crack/ Dallas Memorial Route

Eyeliner

Pissing In The Wind

Outsourced

Alimony Blues

Red Panda

Cockroach

Scrub Tech

Phobics Of TRADgedy

Sweet And Sour

Seam's Alright

Right On

Pocket Full Of Dragons

Irish Spring

Where the Sidewalk Ends

The Idiot Box

High Exposure

B's Knees

Hip Fracture

Snugglefuk

Nosferatu

Unemployment Line

The Poop Deck

The Missing Lynx

Ragged Old Flag

The nice corner crack on the far left side of the slab. Mild start increases in difficulty until an awkward crux bulge. Caution with the blocks above anchor.

A very deceptive, well protected, slabby test piece with great rock and interesting moves. The mild start suddenly changes character through a cryptic sequence that will have you scraping for holds and asking why the lip won't stick. A couple pieces of gear for the easy climbing above the crux should suffice.

(From Yosoymilk's comment on 5/15/2021):

Currently the most adventurous route at 7 mile. Best accessed by climbing the first pitch of Cockroach. Circumnavigates the entire southern flank of the formation. Lateral pitches, loose rock, and plenty of moss await; bring plenty of double & quad length runners. Single rack is fine if confident at the grade.

2 bolts of easy face climbing leads to solid cam placements in the bulging corner and above. Short but sweet. Chains at the anchor on the ledge.

One of the best at Cumberland Crags. Starts with some tricky slab moves to underclings. Set up for the big throw and more positive holds to a slot. Enter and exit the slot to some final slab trickery and you're at the chains. Sweet stuff.

250ft. beyond the Slippter Slab is this area called the Devils Clubhouse. Join The Club goes up the long seam passing two crux slots. Pitch 2 is easy and only worth doing for a little better view of the Twin Sisters. 2 single 60m rappels

P1- scramble a long serpentine shelf from the right to start. Climb a short boulder move or up a thin crack to the left. Continue up steeper rock with moderate difficulty to the snag anchors.

P2- Goes direct up a thin crack, then a short traverse left to double flakes. Then the route zig zags up to the tree anchor at the forested bench above.

P1: Belay from the base of Rainshadow Crack. Scramble up a couple of ledges. Face climb up past two bolts (added after the first ascent to avoid the perpetually wet, original start) to get into the main corner. Continue up, clipping a bolt before working onto a large ledge. Step up, clipping a bolt, into a broken crack system and find yourself doing some creative face moves and gear placements. Move into the v-slot and soon step right up a ramp to the anchors of Rainshadow Crack. 30m

P2: Start up the beginning of the second pitch of Rainshadow Crack. A good, but shallow, cam or a creative nut placement protect the tricky moves off the belay. Continue up a nice low angle finger crack, making a slab traverse left below a bulge. Aim up across easier terrain to the base of a large right facing corner system (sneaky cam and/or bolt for protection). Clip a bolt and stem up into the corner. Follow it up and then left, passing two more bolts, to the anchor. A few single length slings and one double length sling keep the rope running smooth. 32m

Two raps with a 70m rope

or

walk off by continuing up through a a short 3rd class section to a tree belay at the top of the formation

Start from a nice new platform and follow the bolt line to the right. Some great big holds taper off  to some slab climbing which then leads towards a low angle corner/shelf. Step out of the shelf to the right using what friction you can find and continue up the slab towards the roof. Surmount the roof using huge hands but not such huge feet and easier featured face climbing to some brand new chains. An excellent, well protected addition to 7 Mile Rock.

Either step off the stump into a good left hand or do a few hard moves off the deck. Trend right through the weakness until you are almost on Red Panda. Move back left from here and then straight up. Fun movement but tricky gear to find and a bit run out.

The obvious face crack just left of Unemployment Line. Contains great lay-backs and jams. As this crack sees traffic, gear has become more reasonable so it really is a PG climb now. A couple bolts were added to the top section making for a fun, direct finish. The FA traversed right on a ledge at about the mid way point. The second pitch continues up the slab above with nice exposure.

The obvious, super thin crack that starts left of the anchor and runs up the redish colored, quartz wall. A techy test piece with good pro and great rock. Finish up the chimney like feature and use two bolts to belay. Bring webbing to rap off these bolts or continue up and right to the Cockraoch/Lipstick anchor chains.

Another ramping crack to the left of "Hip Fracture". A new bolt was placed at the start  (2019) which has minimized the sketch factor. Worth doing for sure.

Follow the bolt line to the left of Red Panda. Wonderfully Sustained throughout offering bouldery moves at each bolt. Bring two pieces for the easy, rightward, runout, ramp.

O.4" and 1" cams

Alimony Blues is a fine addition to Chelsea's Corner sporting a few cruxy sections with good rests in-between. Well placed bolts protect this climb perfectly without compromising the fun factor. Start in a scarred area climbers left of Snugglefuk. A tricky start with friendly bolts leads to enjoyable slab climbing to a crux bulge. Lateral movement will help you decipher the tricky spots. You can use the last bolt of Snugglefuk to tame the run out at the the top.

Start off a ramp to the right of "Outsourced". Climb through a roof using slopers to a restful stance. Continue up past bolts and a single 0.75" cam placement to a dynamic move through the second crux. The climbing eases but still provides some tricky climbing until connecting to the "Outsourced" ramp and anchors

scramble up to the mossy bench and begin with some brittle serpentine past the first bolt. Continue up the slab with a thin seam using bolts small gear and head towards the thin crack through the bulge above. Climb through the bulge (crux) and then head left to some anchor bolts. Either belay here or clip a bolt and continue on up the featured face past 4 more bolts to a step over left at the roof. Easy climbing leads to a tree belay .

First route as you encounter the "Slippter Slab" identified by an easy crack that ends about 10 ft up. Climb this crack then exit to the left via thin technical face and seam past 4 bolts eventually connecting with "Hip Fracture" to the anchors. Link with Idiot Box for a great 2 pitch outing.

Climb Sundeck Direct and belay from the anchor on the deck.

Follows the roughly 25 foot horizontal crack rightward traverse above Sundeck Direct to a vertical runout 5.7 crack.

Terrible rope drag awaits those who don't use long runners and/or back clean some gear at the start of the traverse. Wet jams in the mid section of the traverse unless there has been a few days of sunny temps.

This route was originally top roped from the ground via Sundeck Direct by Darryl Kralovic years ago,.

Solid climb that had previously been overlooked because of it's run out nature. A couple new bolts added from the FA in 2020 has made this an outstanding (PG) route.

Stick clip the 1st bolt and work various edges and facial features past 3 more bolts to a intermittent crack/seam. Follow locks, and a layback to an awkward notch and a traverse left (bolt) to a crux overlap through another notch with a bolt at your chest. One more bolt then continue easily along a roof traverse using a couple pieces to a 2 bolt anchor at a nice stance.

Takes about 3 consecutive sunny days to dry sometimes seepy at the roof but even when it is it's well worth the effort. DO IT!

Climb up Sundeck Direct and belay from here. From the deck surmount the tree and traverse easy terrain left under the roof.

Two bolt awaits you for the difficult sporty moves to gain the seam above. Easy climbing in the seam but the gear can be a little tricky. One last bolt protects the slab crux after the thin seam runs shut.

Shares an anchor with Unemployment line. Continue up the line of bolts above to reconnect with the last pitch of Rainshadow Crack.

P1-Start off a bench a few feet up and clip a bolt before stepping around left. Continue up easy but run out ground placing gear where possible to another step around left. Continue up the slab past bolts and a crux high step to a ledge and anchor.

P2-Hand traverse left along a flake then up a crack system to a ledge. Milk a rest and don't be tempted to go left on the easy, dirty ramp systems. Instead step out right onto the exposed, thin face crack (good gear) out right with a cruxy exit move. Continue up to another anchor.

P3-Head up and right past two bolts through a bulge. Scramble to the top of the wall to a tree belay.

Climb the thin crack in the water groove to a neat step left and a short splitter above. Shares the same last bolt with "Slippter Crack"

A slippery start gives way to better rock as you advance up the wall. A long worthwhile pitch with good rests in between cruxes, the hardest one coming during the first third of the route.

This is an older, unnamed line, recently cleaned up and re-bolted.

P1: Climb either the 1st pitch of Pickles for Pod or Rainshadow Crack.

P2: Begin as for the second pitch of Pickles for Pod, up the crack then stepping left onto easier ground. Go up the line of bolts on the blunt arete instead of heading into the corner. The exposed and delicate, yet powerful, crux sequence comes just after pulling onto the headwall. Continue up the blunt arete to the anchors. Save a .4 size piece for the top. 32m

Two rappels with a 70m rope

From the top of "Slippter Crack" clip a bolt and follow the blocky crack system to a ledge below a bulge. Slap and pull through the crux bulge with tough clips but closely spaced bolts. Finish up the easier double cracks to a bolted anchor. Link this pitch with Scrub Tech for a fun 2p 5.11d

Either climb Scarface or Cockroach to the snag anchors. From the anchors make a rightward traverse to a staircase and a crux slab with a reachy clip near the top.

Start this awesome pitch with some steep lie backing on a flake through a slot and bulge. Sustained climbing by-passes a thin seam via rightward hand traverse and some pumpy moves, eventually gaining a ledge below a chimney. A short grovel through the chimney and then some more airy climbing and you will arrive at the anchors. A physical climb that will get your heart thumping. First bolt has been removed but there is sufficient gear for the start. A head point style accent is recommended If 11c/d is near your trad limit because of tricky gear placements. It would be a proud on sight for the grade. You can easily top rope by climbing Red Panda and bumping up to the higher anchor.

A cool sport climb located around the left corner from Nosferatu. Follow bolts up blocky terrain to an exciting roof pull over that seems a little cryptic the first go. Stays sustained for a few moves above the roof. Fun stuff!

Nice ramping crack with a crux about 10 ft up. Take a couple tiny cams 0, 00 metolius. Belay from the hip.

An enjoyable entry level climb that is well bolted but still holds challenges for the 5.8/5.9 climber. Find the short side trail before arriving at the "Scarface" area proper. Follow the bolts passing a warm fuzzy roof about 30 ft up and a crux soon after.

P1-Start immediately right of the Rainshadow Crack on some cool pockets to a ledge. Go left then back right to another ledge. Milk a rest then continue up the very sustained and technical face past bolts with one last mantle move to the chains.

P2-Continue past bolts and a crux bulge. Links up with pitch 2 of Rainshadow Crack after pulling the bulge.

A few hard slab moves gets you to the overhang. Make some burly moves into a couple convenient slots in the corner. A big jug lies above. Swab the poop deck (ride the arete) to a few more face holds and a mantle onto the sundeck. Great movement!

Just right of Ragged Old Flag. Second to last climb before reaching the "Xin"ladder/platform you will see this mostly bolted line. Stick clip the first bolt for the initial boulder problem. Connect flakes and positive handholds to lower angled terrain which leads to a nice stance below the steepening face. Above the crux, enjoy jugs on easier terrain and the nice grippy rock above. The 3 cams listed below will tame the run out above the well protected cruxes.

Many cruxes with great rests in between. Stick clip the first bolt and enjoy a couple bucket holds before pulling through a slopey lay back to surmount a huge detached scary looking boulder that somehow still stands. Continue up super varied and fun climbing on great rock.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 7 Mile Rock