A great way to finish Paisano Chimney, can also be approached from Paisano ledge. A wide stem on the west side of the Paisano chimney leads to one bolt, clip, surmount the ledge then traverse across to the arete for one more bolt to the top. Rappel off.

Eyes Wide Shut

Wise Guys

Paisano Jam Crack

The Step Away

Paisano Overhang

Superfly

Paisano Traverse

Mantle of No Return

Continuation

Skigliak

Mushy Peach

The Easement

This is the easiest route to the top of Paisano Pinnacle.  From Paisano Ledge, walk back into the slot behind the pinnacle, and then chimney up and right.  Eventually you reach a thin crack high on the southwest corner.  Exciting, exposed wide stemming and face climbing take you a short distance up to the top.  Once you figure out the moves, they aren't difficult to do.  The protection is fair.  This climb may be more difficult for shorter climbers.

This very unique pitch climbs the chimney to reach the overhanging face/arete on the inside face of the pinnacle.

Start from Paisano Ledge. Stem up the chimney behind the pinnacle. As it widens, a full-body stem is required to reach holds on the face of the pinnacle.

Once comitted to the face, crank bouldery moves around the overhanging arete (5.12-), then climb the very delicate (5.12b) outer face to the top.

This is apparently the earliest recorded climb at Suicide Rock.  The first ascent party brought a jug of Paisano with them, and left the empty bottle on top of the pinnacle.  It's a short, clean 4" wide offwidth.  From Paisano ledge, walk into the slot behind the pinnacle, and you will see this route on your left.

The Paisano Overhang is a 4" to 6" offwidth 20 foot roof crack on Paisano pinnacle atop the Sunshine Face on the front side of Paisano jam crack. The crux is definitely the lip the last 6 to 8 feet of the roof go beyond inverted with MAX exposure high above the Sunshine Face.

youtube.com/watch?v=fu7gp-a…

This climb is truly unique.  Its rating is anybody's guess.  From the top of Paisano Pinnacle, walk down to the very edge, looking out over the slot that separates the pinnacle from the nearby wall.  Make a long jump over to the sloping wall, and then climb up 5.6 friction to the top.  Your belayer has to give you a lot of slack to let you do the jump, and you would get scraped up if you didn't stick the landing.  Tobin Sorenson once did the leap with a full twist.

Sweet diversion. Start from the east or west side of Paisano Pinnacle and traverse under the roof, passing under Paisano Overhang. If going east to west will require a leap at the end on to the top of a block with two bolts for a rap. Same rap as Clockwork Orange. Or, climb back behind the Pinnacle and top out via Eyes Wide Shut.

The end of this route is lower than the start.  From the top of the rock, scramble down to the rappel bolts above Paisano Ledge and set up a belay.  Climb down the steepening face until you can bridge across to the lip of the pinnacle.  A few wild, exposed face moves take you up onto the pinnacle and on to the bolt anchor on top.

This route is used mainly as an easy way to get to the top of the rock from Paisano Ledge.  The climbing is easy except for one face move by a bolt.  Above the bolt, there is a 60 foot runout on 4th and easy 5th class rock.

This face route is between Mushy Peach and Continuation, on the wall behind Paisano Pinnacle. After the crux, you can either move left to the rappel bolts (making the pitch 100' or less), or continue straight to the top of the rock (160' pitch).

This one pitch, balancy face route starts on Paisano Ledge, and goes up to the top of the rock.  A good spot is useful before you get to the first bolt.

A delicate slab with the crux coming at the second bolt where climbing straight up yields a 5.11b and moving right is a bit easier at 5.10C. The route continues up easy slab to anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (j) Paisano Pinnacle Area