Start on Flappin' In the Breeze. At the first bolt, continue up and right, following bolts to a thought provoking and thin crux. Climb past two more bolts and a small unit to a double bolt anchor. Amazing and perfect face climbing!

120 ft.

Slab Accurate

Sugaree

Nuclear Arms

Flappin' In the Breeze

Diamond Dogs

Digital Disco

Blowin' In The Wind (aka Flailing in the breeze)

Three pitches of excellent Rumbling Bald face climbing.

P1> Climb up the left side of the giant flake or romp up the wide gash that forms the right side of the feature. Move left and climb up to the first bolt. Trend left on easier ground aiming for a double bolt belay. There are slight variations on this pitch making it feel easier or harder.

100 ft.

P2> Climb straight up to a bolt. Move left then up and traverse right. Climb up and left following a seam which changes into a nice crack/left facing feature(amazing). Follow this to another double bolt belay.

100 ft.

P3> Climb straight up discontinuous features aiming for a bolt. Move left then climb straight up to a right facing flake/roof. Rail right on great holds(steep) with great exposure. Gain a stance and step up to another double bolt belay.

90 ft.

Note: The second rap takes every bit of a single 60m rope. Watch your ends!

Also be sure and take some brass, it might save your a**.

This is a route that will surely test your nut placing ability.  The thin seams that run the length of the route are very shallow and often flared in the wrong direction.  Most of the route has very moderate moves with one stopper crux move.

Two approaches exist for getting to the base.  You can use Nuclear Arms or use the "3rd" class ramp from the base of Flappin' in the Breeze.  We chose the ramp.  The ramp is slightly dirty with only a few places for gear in solid rock.  Overall an okay way to approach the base.  If you use the ramp, stretch a 60m rope to it's end and get your partner to simul. climb about 20' to get to the base of Sugaree.

From the base you will notice thin intermittent seams with a pin in the middle.  Start through secure ledges with no gear until about 20'.  Start working in your smallest nuts.  Continue moving up passing the pin until you can step slightly left at a crack that goes up and left.  It is imperative to get the good medium sized stopper and TCU placements here for the crux move.  Once you got the gear, make the very difficult lie-back sort of move to get to the good hands again.  Unfortunately, the feet in the crux are covered in moss and are slick.  A brush is not a bad idea.  Once through the crux, the crack gets bigger and the gear gets better.  Continue up and left until you are on a sloping terrace.  About 20' to the left is a two-nut anchor at the right side of a giant block.

Get your wits together for this cool sandbag.  Start on top of a block slightly downhill and to the right of Flappin' in the Breeze.  Smear your way up  a short, unprotected slab to gain the roof/flake system, traverse it about 80 feet to the right, then bust onto the face at a white streak using good holds.  Cruise up the relatively unprotected face for ~50 feet to the rappel anchor.

A fun route on the left side of the Flappin' area.

P.1- Climb a face to the corner feature to a old bolt/pin anchor that is backed up with a piece of gear or two.

P.2- Move up into a chimney feature with a finger crack to a roof.  Blast over the roof to a cool, balancey face with RPs.  Move up this to belay at a tree

Some of your digits may have a hangover after this one.

Fierce crimping and good balance will lead to the 3rd bolt(5.11+,12-). Move right then up and left. Great gear will lead up and right to another bolt. Follow crimps and bolts past another cruxy section(well protected). Climb immaculate 5.10 face on small gear to the last bolt. Bust the last disco move up and right then straight up for the last piece which protects the traverse over to the Flailin in The Breeze anchors. You can lower off with a 70 meter. A 60 m will require a top belay. Rap back down to the Nuclear Arms rap tree. Rap back down the Gulley.

I recently changed the name here due to confusion between this one and Flappin'. This route climbs the white face up and left of "Nuclear arms".  It has recently been upgraded with a bolt protecting the starting moves instead of the tree; this extra move is now the technical crux at 11-.

P-1 Climb "Nuclear arms" up to the lower rap tree and belay.

P-2  Start above the tree on the ramp and clip a low bolt (the original line used to climb up the tree and sling the top for pro and then step back down to the face holds out right).  Crank long moves on good holds up and left to easier climbing and the second bolt.  Move up and slightly right, continuing up the thin face past 3 more bolts, interspersed with a couple small pieces of gear (5.10ish).  There is a 2 bolt anchor for the belay (100' back to rap tree, which is 100' to ground).

P-3 continue up the face above (not the bolt out right, which is another option) wandering around to get gear, eventually ending up on the large ledge with the 2 nut rap anchor of "Sugaree".  This is a worthwhile 5.8 pitch with an unknown FA history.  It is right at 100' to get back to the bolt anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Flapping.../Nuclear arms area