After about 25 feet, an ancient, manky bolt ladder leads to some thin nailing which then leads to some clean pro. There's a good stance under the final headwall crack.

Out On The Tiles

Left No Name Crack

Unnamed (submitted as Old, Bad, and Ugly Nail-up)

Thin nailing out roof around and up to easier climbing. Belay in lower part of dihedral to eliminate rope drag.

Around April 25, 1977, I led the first pitch of this route, using aid on much of the first pitch. The start was an overhanging seam/crack, which led to good cracks in the vertical face. After about 95 feet, I reached a juniper and abseiled. Tim cleaned on jumars. We left the rope fixed, so we could finish the route on the following day. David Kozak's 1985

SOUTHWEST ROCK

calls this pitch "The Old, Bad and Ugly Nail-up." He says that there is a two-bolt belay. There were no bolts when we were there. He doesn't mention a second pitch.

The following day, we jumared the fixed rope. Tim led the second pitch, using aid in the rain. The second pitch went up a nice crack in a vertical, left-facing dihedral and could go free at 5.10 or 11. The lower pitch could go free, except for (perhaps) the start.

Description

Protection

Routes in Falls Creek Cliffs