This is a variation to

North Pillar Left

that largely follows its own line, just right of

NPL

. It takes a direct start to the North Pillar, following slabs and flakes for 3 pitches before joining the top of

NPL's

first pitch.

At the base of the north face, right of the large gully where

North Pillar Left

begins, locate a small roof about 40 feet up. The first pitch goes around the right side of this roof.

P1 - (5.5 R, 180 feet). Climb nice slabs passing the right side of the roof mentioned above. Continue straight up...at times you can step left or right and climb steep grass ledges, but I chose to stay on the rock. Belay at a nice grassy ledge with a hand-sized crack.

P2 - (5.7, 170 feet). Keep going straight up slabs and cracks to the base of a bulging wall. Take a steep flake system on the left side of this wall with good pro, then belay on another grassy ledge.

P3 - (5.4, 60 feet). A moderate ramp leads up to the base of the north pillar directly above you. Climb the right side of this ramp...there is a grassy gully just to your right. Belay on a small ledge with a splitter hand crack for an anchor.

P4 - (5.6 R, 200 feet) This pitch shares terrain with

North Pillar Left

but stays right for a more direct finish. Follow the nice hand crack for about 40 feet up and left, then angle right and straight up the pillar. Pass a cluster of loose blocks on the right, then stretch the rope out to a ledge at the base of a blank slab.

P5 - (5.5 R, 150 feet). Boulder up the clean slab with no gear, then follow easier ground along an exposed ridge to a belay at a large block.

North Pillar Left

goes left on the ridge to an optional 5.7 step.

Some 4th class scrambling gains the summit from here.

Descent - to return to the base of the route, head west along the west ridge passing 2-3 towers on the right until it is possible to drop down a steep gully to the right (north). The further west you go along the ridge, the easier the descent will be. Once you exit the descent gully, veer right (east) and meander back to the base.

North Pillar Direct

Heart of Gratitude

Lederhosen

Southeast Face

North Pillar Left

Begin in a prominent gully that splits the left side of the north face. Scramble up the gully until it turns to 5th class. Step right on to a grassy ledge with a nice crack for an anchor.

Pitch 1: (5.7, 140 feet) zig-zag up the face above, trending slightly to the right. Traverse right under a roof, then head straight up a left facing corner to find another nice belay ledge with a splitter hand crack for an anchor.

Pitch 2: (5.7 R, 140 feet) jam the nice hand crack straight off the belay for 40 feet...you are now on the North Pillar. Continue up the pillar with occasional protection while passing a few bulges. Belay on the left side of the pillar beneath a steep, left facing dihedral system.

Pitch 3: (5.8, 80 feet) climb up into the dihedral system and pass through two roofs (crux) with good protection. Climb a blank slab and belay at the base of a large step in the ridge on the left.

Pitch 4: (5.7, 100 feet) Ascend the step with nice face holds and a crack, then continue on easier terrain to the false summit. 4th class scrambling finds the true summit.

Descent - to return to the base of the route, head west along the west ridge passing 2-3 towers on the right until it is possible to drop down a steep gully to the right (north). The further west you go along the ridge, the easier the descent will be. Once you exit the descent gully, veer right (east) and meander back to the base.

At the top of the 4th class ramp, stay right until you are close to a steep drop off. You'll see a headwall above and large block with a clean crack splitting it. You will aim for the crack to start the route.

P1. Climb up the ramp up to the large, obvious crack splitting a block. This crack begins with a #1 Camalot and opens up to at #3 Camalot. Climb above the crack, and run out some easy climbing on a small ridge. Place protection when you can, and find a nice belay ledge about 30 meters above the belay (5.9).

P2. Scramble up to a left-facing dihedral. A crack goes up the length of the dihedral that takes #2 Camalots. Follow the ridge to the summit after climbing the dihedral.

Descend via 3rd class to ridge to talus field on climber's left.

This route is summarily described in Gerry Roach's guide to RMNP.  A buttress descends in the southeast direction from the summit of Little Matterhorn.  (That is from the high point at the far end of the ridge.)  The route climbs easy slabs to the left of a large overhang that cuts across the base of that buttress.  The slabs are about two pitches. (We didn't rope up for this section.)

At the top of the slabs, move right to the base of the upper section of the buttress.  From there, it's about 70m to the top.  The climbing close to the crest of the ridge is around 5.5.

Description

Protection

Routes in Little Matterhorn