Crack and ledges on the left side of the main SW

face. Belay from the shoulder or continue up crack/gully to summit.

Guides Route

Thumb Thing

Thumb War

Hangnail

Thumb One

Thumb Thump

Thumbdercling

Foolish Frans

Flashback

Guides Area

Tomfoolery

Thumbs-N-Noses

Skateing Away

Thumbelina

Thumbtack

Hands and Frans

Start up the face just right of a small hole in the rock caused by a block that fell out of the wall. Traverse right to a bolt on awkward holds to a small roof. Mantles, slabs and awkwardness is what you’ll find as you  progress yourself upward. Use an undercling flake to negotiate the big roof passing over a lone bush annoyingly perched on the wall to a bolt which protects the awkward crux. Don’t miss the tiny gear after the crux or you’ll be puckered making an easy, but insecure slabby move to the next bolt. Kitty litter scrambling will bring you to the top.

Start up an obvious dike and meander out left to the bolts and a shallow crack system. It's pretty high to the first bolt, but it gets easier as you move up. The cruxes are short, followed my much easier climbing as you go. Some decent gear can be found along the way between the bolts.

Start up the same gully/chimney as Hangnail, clip a bolt and continue up the mossy crack system to the top.  Watch for loose rock and this route can stay wet for a while after a rainstorm or snow.

Starts in the same shallow corner as Thumb One but continues strait up following bolts which eventually lead to a steep lieback up a rib of dikes. The route has a distinct crux pulling on some dikes which is harder moves than found on Thumb One, but it is nowhere near as sustained.

Steep, almost overhanging jugs and at only 5.9? No move is all that hard, but you won't be getting a rest anywhere along the way which makes this one feel much harder. It's pretty rare to find a route this steep with such a moderate grade on granite. A very natural line.

A natural line with jugs just when you need them. Varied climbing with friction, steep face and cracks breaks this climb up and forces you to use all your skills. The gear feels sparse at times, but it's solid and will keep you feeling confident moving ahead.

Start on the left arete just left of Hands and Frans. Climb between the block and arete until you can step right off the block and onto the blunt arete. Follow the arete up friction edges to a thin horizontal crack. Step up above the crack and sling a knob to protect a short thin section. Better gear can quickly be found above. The route briefly shares the face with Hands and Frans before moving out left up a series of grainy flakes and hand cracks after about ten feet. Follow the grainy flakes over the top and finish with Tomfoolery.

Start up the face just left of a small hole caused by a block falling out of the wall. Climb up the face to two small roofs. Climb over the roofs (crux/good pro) and merge left with thumbelina for the final headwall.

To the far right of the crag is a wide, low angle area of blocky rock that can serve as a great place to practice your leading skills or teaching newer climbers how to climb.  There are multiple routes you can follow with varrying difficulty from easy 5th class to about 5.6.  There is an anchor on top which can be used for setting up a Top Rope to many of the routes in this section.

Start in a shallow corner with good jugs and quickly gain the first of a series of small roofs which require some thought to overcome. A couple bolts and pitons protect the more serious moves while a good assortment of gear protects the rest.

This route looks a lot meaner than it is from the ground. It's all there. This route was put in ground up with bolts drilled by hand. Hooks were used while drilling the bolts.

Follow an obvious dike all the way from the base to just short of the summit. Big holds, distinct cruxes and solid gear helps you get up this one.

Dike and thin crack climb on right center of SW

face. FA was done with hexes,stoppers and slung

chickenhead. Bolts added since.

Start just right of a right facing flake/corner system. Follow discontinuous cracks, flakes and knobs past several ledgey sections to a nice head wall full of gigantic holds and knobs. Better than it looks from the ground.

Start up a slab just left of Thumb Thing and delicately work your way up to the first bolt. Thin friction, slopers and pinches with technical footwork is what you’ll  encounter along this route. Keep a keen eye out for gear as you work your way up. Thin and techy. If fiddling with micronuts and tiny cams isn’t your thing, consider leaving this one for a T.R.

Big holds over exciting runnouts with a few thank god bolts and some random gear placements is what you'll find on this route. You're constantly on the lookout for gear placements, and they always seem to appear just as you start second guessing continuing. Thankfully, the rock on this route is totally solid. The crux is somewhat height dependent as it's a reachy move. Thankfully there is a bolt right at your face when you make it.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Tom's Thumb