Start on the left end of the west ledge (just left of

Oasis Red

). Most of the 1st pitch is shared with

Northwest Arete

. Go up easy rock heading for the nice looking slab with a crack running up it. Continue up this crack to where the wall bulges and continue through the bulge to awkward moves moving right (9+) to gain a stance above the bulge.  Move left around the corner to the north face and a sloping ledge. Follow the ledge down and left and set up a belay. You should be directly below the crux overhang.

For the second pitch, head up a flared crack to the roof and clip the bolt over the lip. There are hard layback moves (11a) to get over the overhang.  Move up to horizontal and clip 2nd bolt and make 2nd thin face crux moves to reach the top.

Rappel from

Elanor's

chains.

North Face

Oasis Red

Elanor

The Tortoise And The Hare

Northwest Arete

Cruise up an easy corner to headwall. Clip a bolt, and head up and right under roof with gear (fun climbing!). Continue heading right around arete clipping 2 bolts and finish on some mellow cracks. A shiny 2 bolt anchor gets you down.

This shares the same start as

Oasis Red

but moves right after about 25 feet, across the big ledge to the base of the left-facing dihedral. Belay here and then move up the dihedral, traversing at the top under the large boulder to the anchors on

Elanor

.

Start on the left end of the west ledge (just left of

Oasis Red

). Go up easy rock heading for the nice looking slab with a crack running up it. Continue up this crack to where the wall bulges and continue through the bulge (crux, good hands) to awkward moves moving right to gain a stance above the bulge.  Move left around the corner to the north face and climb up the easy crack that lies just left of the NW arete to the summit.

Rappel from

Elanor's

chains.

Description

Protection

Routes in Desdemona