On the MOW Boulder (backside facing Alcatraz):  

  This problem is on the back/right side of the MOW Boulder, opposite from "Escape From Alcatraz" "Paladin" and "Raising Arizona"...  

  For "Donkey Kong Direct" Start under the low roof and pull out of the lip. From the lip, climb straight up the tall face to the straightforward scramble top out. 

Donkey Kong Direct

Allegiance

Sophie

M.O.W. Arête

One-Up

Escape From AlcaSlab

Heavy Footed Swagger

Swagger

Crows & Arrows

M.O.W (Mouth Of Wilson)

Swagger Warm-up ( MOW Down Climb)

Sophie Stand

Donkey Kong Left

M.O.W. Low

On the MOW Boulder (Facing Alcatraz):  

  This problem is on the back/right side of the MOW Boulder, opposite from "Escape from Alcatraz" "Paladin" and "Raising Arizona"...  

  "Donkey Kong Left" starts under the roof and traverses left. Follow the obvious path of least resistance up the tall dirty corner to the high, easy-ish top out. Take a brush along...

(this is on the lower "patio" boulder in the cave)

  The start to Allegiance is in the middle of the cave hallway sit starting on the large rock on the floor of the cave. The problem sit starts and traverses on the aggressive overhang to the right, to join the massive low ledge on "Swagger" where you then climb the swagger arête.

 Sit start sitting on the large rock in the middle of the cave hallway. Use a side pull for your right hand and stand up to gain the long rail. Traverse right via small crimps (stay low) to gain the low, massive ledge (which is the start to "swagger") on the arête. Climb the arête to top out on the top of the MOW patio.

This proud FA was put up by Matt Bosley on September 13th 2012. 

  If you dont know about Sophie the French Giraffe, do yourself a favor and research it for some solid beta. 

  This one climbs up the proud, beautiful mid face of the Mouth Of Wilson Boulder from the sit. 

  Start as per MOW(V7) but after the first move in, move up and left to a tiny left hand finger tip crimp. Follow past this crimp through the crimps out right and directly up the steep mid face and top out as per MOW Arete(V5).

 (be ready for some sharps)

 Stand start on the leftside arete, on a low corner jug. gain a heel hook, and crimp up the arete to gain another jug with your left hand. move to the right through crimps to gain a slot via hard moves. hit the distant jug rails with pumpy moves to reach the solid top out.

The hardest v4 in the world... 

  Located on the MOW Patio:  

  Walk from the parking lot up past the upper lookout, then passing The Room, the Hive Boulder, the Foggy Mountain Fin. round the sharp corner and walk up to the large "open mouth" formation called the "Mouth Of Wilson" and this problem climbs up the patio/lower block of the mouth. the problem starts and travels up the main exposed face of the patio and is just off to the right of the arete.    Sit start on a low left hand crimp and round, smooth right-hand pinch. climb onto and up the slab through crimps and edges, exit/top-out onto ledge.

MOW Boulder:

 walk just past this and walk off the trail to the back of the Mouth-of-Wilson formation where there is another heavy inclined boulder surface and a tunnel/cave looking opening formed by the leaning boulders.

 this problem Starts on the slab/vertical mostly blank looking face on the left, across from the heavy inclined boulder to the right.

 Start matched and standing where there is an overhanging undercling ledge/block portion at approx chest height (give or take), which has a good under-cling under the left portion of it, and is flat to the right portion. gain feet and move into the crimp above to start the traverse to the right.

 this problem moves to the right through fun moves and small hands. stay on the main face and exit through the "Alcatraz" exit hole. all other faces are off until you gain the jug ledge at the end, and then the rear and right boulder and block become fair game. (pretty obvious when youre looking at it)

MOW Patio:  

  Although a cruxy portion of this problem is not dabbing, and that usually constitues lesser stars for quality, this problem is literally beside the trail and is also located on the prow arete that helps form the patio for the Mouth Of Wilson Boulder/Formation.... so its pretty cool...  

  This is the Sit to Standard "Swagger" (v2). look for the super low left hand divot on the left side of the arete, and on the right you will have a shallow crimp slash. position a right toe and a left heel or whatever combo best suits you.    make a huge right hand throw up to a slopy right hand hold and hope at least one foot sticks. gain the huge left hand ledge and top out "Swagger" standard through big hands above. 

MOW Patio:  

  Walk down the trail past the lookout, past the Room, pat the Hive boulder, and round the sharp corner. you will find a huge split boulder which resembles an open 'Pacman' mouth which is called "Mouth of Wilson"... you can find "Swagger" by looking at the arete that is at the left corner of the base of the Mouth of Wilson. Swagger climbs up the arete and then rounds out midway to top-out onto the patio of the Mouth of Wilson.  

  Low start (campus) with a good left hand on the big notch jug midway up the sharp arete, and a right hand on a smaller, but positive hold to the right of the notch jug. paste feet (campus was easier for me) and move up to the juggy hands above. gain better feet and work up the face on positive hands to top out on the M.O.W patio. 

The backside of the MOW Boulder:  

  Underneath the little rooflet there's a shallow dihedral with a vertical crack/flake system in it; the starting holds are the side-pulls formed by the crack/flake. Move to the positive underclings on the right side of the roof (where alcaslab starts). From there, it trends up and slightly right until you're underneath the boulder on top of the slab. From there you're forced to traverse left off the boulder

MOW Boulder:

 when on the deck/patio/in the mouth of the MOW boulder formation, this problem climbs from the sitstart from the low right side of the underbelly of the roof, to the left, meeting up with the starting ledge rail of the MOW Arete problem.

 Sit start matched in a deep incut slot jug (about 4 feet to the left of the edge of the boulder). paste on feet and make a move through another incut to a flat lip. link into the big juggy ledge segment that serves as a quick rest and as the stand start to the MOW Arete v6 version of this problem. continue the moves and top out through the MOW Arete.

 The problem climbs up to where there is enough room between them to top out (at which point you will find the massive jug to top out on).

 start low or sit start if you can and work up through easy holds to gain the big jug hold at the top. this is the point where you would climb up to gain access to the MOW problems, only starting lower. just to warm up.

MOW Boulder:

 Walk down the L.R.T to the Mouth Of Wilson boulder formation, which can be found by walking from the parking lot past the top lookout and continuing down the Listening Rock Trail past a deep cave like formation to your right which is called "the room", then past another large boulder to your left called "The Hive Boulder". Continue past a tiny but fun warm up v1 blade called the "Foggy Mountain Fin" and then you will approach a sharp double back in the trail. Once you pass the double back, you will shortly come upon a striking formation that looks similar to "pacman" or a large mouth, lending to its namesake which is the Mouth Of Wilson.  

  The problem starts on top of the patio deck, and stand starts in the middle of the blade on small incut crimps just big enough to match on. this line is not related to M.O.W. standard, M.O.W. Arete, or M.O.W. Low as it starts in the middle of the roofs face.  

  Engage feet and toss up to the massive, long flake crack. Work to the top out.

MOW Boulder:

 With his pockets stuffed full of mint flavored Lifesavers, Travis Tweed did this low start to the standard "MOW"(V7) line on Sept 23rd 2010. Awesome!

 when on the deck/patio/in the mouth of the MOW boulder formation, this problem climbs from the sitstart from the low right side of the underbelly of the roof, to the left, meeting up with the starting ledge rail of the MOW Arete problem.

 Sit start below and right of the standard incut jug on a low ripple rail with tough feet. make a hard pull into the standard "MOW"(V7) start, which is a deep incut slot jug (about 4 feet to the left of the right-most edge of the boulder).

 paste on feet and make a move through another incut to a flat lip. link into the big juggy ledge segment that serves as a quick rest and as the stand start to the MOW Arete v5 version of this problem. continue the moves and top out through the MOW Arete

M.O.W. stands for Mouth Of Wilson, which is the small, cool little community near GHSP.

 The MOW formation is pretty crazy. The whole thing comprises of two large boulders. The bottom boulder is flat on top and serves as a "patio" that the top boulder sits on top of. The top boulder is steeply inclined and forms a massive "mouth" in conjunction with the lower boulder.

 The bottom boulder is referred to as the MOW Patio, the top as MOW.

 The MOW Patio has several fun lines such as Heavy Footed Swagger to choose from, and MOW has the classic "Mouth Of Wilson" which provides many variations and extensions.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mouth Of Wilson