AKA:

Take no Prisoners

, this water groove/crack is at the left end of the east face of

Window Rock

.  The crux is down low.  After the start it's easy low angle climbing to the top.  Belay from trad anchor at top, then walk to north end for one rope rappel.  I enjoyed leading this climb despite the name.

Masochist Crack

Deep Dream

Crunk Cowgirl

Good Times

One Step Beyond

Expect No Mercy

Indian Summer

Destroy all Planets

Failure to Launch

Juniper Jam

Drunken Cowboy

Pure Pleasure

Start right of the Rated "R" Route and left of Failure to launch. Move up Crack traverse right on small rail. Up the right crack then traverse left to parallel crack. Belay up on horizontal crack about 100-120ft up.

Unnamed crack in the Bingham guidebook. Just right of Drunken Cowboy. Start just right of the big tree at the base of Drunken Cowboy. Work up the crack on low angle slab. Build gear anchor at the top. Rap from the chains above Drunken Cowboy (recommended) or do the 5.easyish chimney down climb to the right.  See beta pic for more information.

In the center of the east face on Window Rock are a series of perfect hand cracks that don't quite make it to the ground.  Look for a bolt below the start of two of these cracks.  The left crack is Good Times, and the right crack is Pure Pleasure.  Both are 5.7, and both are enjoyable.

There is a tree at the base of the routes to the right.  Start at this tree and traverse left on the slabs to the bolt.  Climb the left crack to its end and belay on a big ledge with horizontal placements for an anchor.  When your second gets up there, go check out the Window up and left of your belay ledge.  Huge bathtubs abound on this rock.

Descend with a one-rope rappel off a two-bolt anchor located 20 feet to climber's right of the route, landing at the tree where you started.

One Step Beyond is a face you can top rope after doing Expect No Mercy.

Start on a couple decent crimps and make a couple challenging moves before making some kind of huge reach/deadpoint 6 feet up.  Above, lay away the steep stuff and hope you get to the lip before you pump out.

Bingham's guide gives this a .11a which I felt to be a huge sandbag.  The crux moves I did were minimum .11+, after several attempts. Could be harder, or if I missed something, could be easier.

For those looking for and expecting .11a, this is a bomb.

In the center of the east face on Window Rock is a fist crack that comes down into a large alcove.  This is Expect No Mercy.  Climb the steep face past a couple of bolts to the crack.  Pull through this pumpy fist crack roof and jam to the two-bolt anchor.

Start on the slab just left of the start to Good Times and Pure Pleasure. Climb up to a very thin pinched crack, and continue up as it widens.

Named after an old Martian movie, a pretty nice route. Slabby, well protected crux down low into a nice, though somwhat, flaring crack. When the crack gets funky, run it out to the prominent horizontal for some gear, then wander to the top on dishes. Fun long pitch...a little spicy.

On the east side of Window Rock is this obvious line, often climbed, but not listed in the latest Bingham guide.  It shares the start (and crux) with Pocket Rocket, stays in the flaring crack until it ends, crosses directly over the horizontal gash/crack about halfway up the route utilizing face holds until a second finger-sized crack is reached.  The first 3-4 moves (poor feet) are 5.9, the rest is 5.7-ish.  Going from one crack to the other may provide a modest runout if protection cannot be found in the horizontal.

NOTE: If a name is in common use for this climb, let's make that change here.

This right is about 60 feet right of Pure Pleasure and Good Times.  Scramble up a couple of boulders to a great hand crack with an obvious Juniper growing out of the bottom of it.

This climb has fewer facial features than Good Times and Pure Pleasure and requires more traditional crack technique.

Descend) using the same bolt repel anchors as Good Times and Pure Pleasure.

In the center of the east face on Window Rock are a series of perfect hand cracks that don't quite make it to the ground.  Look for a bolt below the start of two of these cracks.  The left crack is Good Times, and the right crack is Pure Pleasure.  Both are 5.7, and both are enjoyable.  You should do these as well.  Drunken Climber is the crack to the right of these.

There is a tree at the base of the route.  Start at this tree and head up into the crack above you to its end.  Belay on a big ledge with horizontal placements for an anchor.

Descend with a one-rope rappel off a two-bolt anchor located 5 feet to climber's right of the route, landing at the tree where you started.

Note: I don't know what this route is historically called, but ``Drunken Climber'' is what we have always called it.  If you know more about this route, please speak up!

In the center of the east face on Window Rock are a series of perfect hand cracks that don't quite make it to the ground.  Look for a bolt below the start of two of these cracks.  The left crack is Good Times, and the right crack is Pure Pleasure.  Both are 5.7, and both are enjoyable.

There is a tree at the base of the routes to the right.  Start at this tree and traverse left on the slabs to the bolt.  Climb the right crack to its end and belay on a big ledge with horizontal placements for an anchor.  When your second gets up there, go check out the Window up and left of your belay ledge.  Huge bathtubs abound on this rock.

Descend with a one-rope rappel off a two-bolt anchor located 20 feet to climber's right of the route, landing at the tree where you started.

Description

Protection

Routes in Window Rock - East