The far left route is mainly just an approach pitch for the severely overhanging, thin and very hard looking project on the arete/face above. Still, if you're in the area, this route is worth doing.

Make a move up a small step to get established on the rock. Slab your way up past a small roof to gain the awesome holds and jugs. Cruise up these to the two bolt anchor on the large ledge.

Lion Cling

Lion of Judah

Hakuna Matada

Simba's Pride

Another fun two-pitch route up the center of the formation, Lion of Judah shares the first nice 5.9 pitch of

Hakuna Matada

but heads up the right side of the upper headwall on similar cool patina holds but at a more moderate grade.

Climb the fine first pitch of

Hakuna Matada

past seven bolts to a bolt and chain anchor on the face. While it's fine to anchor here, it's a lot more comfortable to continue up another 10 feet to the scoop/ledge and a single bolt belay below the upper headwall.

From the belay, head up the right line of bolts on steep but positive patina features past six bolts to a bolt and chain anchor.

Two single rope raps with a 60m or 70m rope will get you back down.

This fine two pitch route takes the most obvious and tallest line to the top of Lion's Head. The first pitch is fun and juggy 5.9 climbing and is worth doing just on its own.

The second pitch is the business pitch with a hard, thin crimping crux on the cool patina plates of the upper wall.

Climb the fine first pitch past seven bolts to a bolt and chain anchor on the face. While it's fine to anchor here, it's a lot more comfortable to continue up another 10 feet to the scoop/ledge and a single bolt belay below the upper headwall.

Now get psyched for some painful crimping and head up past two bolts on the left of the upper headwall. Make a tough move to the horizontal crack to clip the bolt that will protect the crux moves. Find good feet and crimp hard past the horizontal on patina plates to better holds. Clip a couple more bolts on more moderate ground to the anchor near the summit of the formation.

It seems reasonable to do this whole climb as one long pitch but only lower to the anchors atop pitch 1 because a single 60m or even 70m won't get you down.

A long, varied route up the right side of the Lion's Head. The route involves a variety of moves from a short bit of no-hands slab at the bottom to some hard cranking in a steep dihedral for the crux. Finish up with fun and exposed climbing to the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lion's Head