Climb The Stand 5.12d ** and work the leftmost roof line out and to the left. [Continue reading for beta]Climb The Stand to a good rest at the base of the roof. Cruise through the awesome juggy roof (11b maybe?) to a decent shake before the last couple of moves. Launch into a tough sequence of V4 or V5 moves out a thin crimp flake culminating with a dynamic move over the lip to flat jug. A couple more pulls gets to good holds and anchors. Not sure why this route doesn't see any traffic, The Stand is a great climb by itself, and the roof is classic with an amazing final sequence. All of the hardware in the roof seems to be fine, but it's not your typical climbtech steel cable draws, so inspect before using! 

Stand and Deliver

Rage

Maximum Overdrive

Dark Half

Pet Sematary

Heavy Fuel

Gunslinger

Thinner

Brother in Arms

Squeeze Job

Misery Delivered

Christine

Salem's Lot

Misery

The Stand

Tiddly Winks

Skeleton Crew

The Shining

Maximum Face

Skeleton Poo

This is the short bouldery route that is three routes to the left of "It". This route is short but quite good.

Start just to the right of the corner that is the route It.  Climb Pet Semetary to the roof, catch a shake, and make the transition from vertical to horizontal.  Climb through the next seven bolts of roofy madness.  (The first five bolts of the roof are considered 11c, so be ready for the business at the end.)  If you can make it to the lip of the roof, catch a tricky heel hook rest and go for the chains.

Roof climbing at it's best!  A 30 foot 12b on slightly overhanging slopers, leads to 35 feet of completely horizontal roof climbing madness.   

  Paw through scoops and slopes to reach a jug in the break just below the massive roof.  Although the holds look pretty good from the ground, they all prove to be a bit harder to use than you expect- requiring creative moves and novel footwork to make things manageable.  The first four bolts in the roof are the hardest, but the end does not let up.  Save a little to clip the chains!  

  In my opinion, this route felt a bit stiff for 13a so be ready to kick into overdrive, and get creative.  Some of the rock is a little friable so beware if you stray from the chalked up holds.  Also, most people skip the third draw in the roof.

Very short with perfect rock, bouldery sequences and gymnastic moves the Dark Half is a great choice for cold days.  Think of this route as a V5 to a bad rest, to another V5. 

  Do some easy moves to a horizontal with good pods.  Reach up to a sloper, and a suspicious pocket(chipped?) and make a big, dynamic move to the next horizontal break.  Relax on some decent holds then do a big lock off to an OK hold and toss for better holds.  Much bigger, slopey holds lead to the chains. 

  This route has 4 star rock, and movement.  It's just too short to get more than 2 stars.  Get on it!

Slopey all the way to the top! Bolts are placed fairly close together so its a nice 11 for someone that is just starting to climb 11s.

Moderate face climbing to a crimpy arete crux below the anchors. 

  Pull on the face left of Brother in Arms, make some long moves between good holds to a no hands rest.  Move slightly left, to more good holds below the steep blunt arete.  Use slopers and crimps on both sides of the arete to reach better holds and the chains.

Easy climbing gets you up to the corner and the first bolt. Climb the left face of the corner to anchors below the roof.

Climb slopers up to a good rest near the end. Finishes on the corner below roof on rings.

Boulder over a bulge(crux) to a right-facing corner with a thin finger crack. Mosey up the corner to a single anchor, on the left face below the roof.

A short crank through the first two bolts brings you to a massive ledge the third clip and a great rest. Moving up and left from the ledge, you reach the thinnest section of the route. Trend left at the last bolt, or use your superior reach and lock-offs for a straight-up finish. 

  This is a good addition to the other easy to moderates that are wildly popular at South Clear. A good tick if you've done Christine and Best Seat and are looking for a little more.

It isn't 100% deserving of the zero stars it gets in the guidebook...ok maybe it is.  Fun boulder off the ground leads to big and not fun slopers higher up. Should be the last thing you climb in the library.

The logical extension to Misery. 

  Instead of stopping at the anchors of Misery, keep climbing out the Deliver roof.  Try not to miss the blind toss over the roof to a jug just below the chains.

Scramble up from the trail just right of the Library roof. Step left onto the face and clip your first bolt. The route trends up and left a bit, putting you above the right end of the roof. Balancy moves take you upward through a slabby face, then past another steep section to the anchors.

Climb onto the large block that starts Thinner, and traverse towards the right on textured but slightly sloping holds. Clip the crux bolt from a small hold, and move up then right, fire a fun deadpoint move to a massive jug to complete the crux sequence. Slide out of the cave to gain the slab and finish up Christine.  

  I fully recommend this route for anyone climbing in the 5.11 range. It adds an incredible amount of value to Christine.

Locate a corner about 40 feet past Christine up on a ledge obscured by some brush. Climb the crack and skirt the roof at the top by moving right. Standard single rack. No Anchors.

Climb the seam up to the roof, work the horizontal right and around the prow to the chain anchors. The roof has fixed draws.

Tough face climbing that requires a bit more figuring out than the other routes on the wall. 

  Like all the routes in this wall, slopers are king.  However, it will take more than pulling down to get you up this one.  Look for some underclings, and some tricky sequences to get you to better holds at mid-height.  Easier, but still demanding moves gain the chains.

Fantastic slopper moves that climbs the start of Maximum Overdrive. Worth doing if your going for The Shining-- this was more sustained and better movement too. 

Shares the first 3 bolts with Skeleton Crew then goes left out to the face.

Here you will find several short, steep, and pumpy routes.

Description

Protection

Routes in Stephen King Library