Climb cracks to chimney off width crack that splits off cliff as a finger of rock. very awkward top half with no protection.

Broken Down Palace

Chimney Blocks

Layback Chimney

Red Power? variation Corner Arete

Amphitheater

Smashed

Hard moves on inclining wall gain hand traverse flake. At the end of the flake climb up past many blocks to the top.

Climb black crack until able to move into notch and summit cliff.

Left of Red Power is a ledge off of the ground. Above this ledge are several off width cracks with little protection at the top offs. White yellow block is lay backed to rest midway. Stem out of chimney to finish.

Longest climb on cliff. Climb bucket face holds up to old bolt at bulge (crux) to corner overhang old pin (crux). Mantle around overhang right and climb left facing narrow width corner. I placed a pin at the start to corner. The finish variation to Red Power enters the corner midway up and continues until breaks in rock 80ft. Then take arch back to weak flakes (5.8) to surmount final wall for a total pitch of 150ft. to the summit or do it in two belays.

Climb a flakey jam crack to the ledge. Surmount black walls to amphitheater and ascend left wall to the top.

Southeast facing granite cliff at least 100ft at it's highest section and most of it is far less than that. 60ft maybe to summit of the mountain other than it center section. Dirty and wet on the east side. Beautiful views and some excellent rock climbing. John Sykes, Secrets of the Notch has route descriptions but, I didn't post anything I did there after I started climbing it in 1982. Ed webster's guide book of 1986 also includes Indian Head. I prefer Ed's guide for details on Indian Head. This cliff has no sport routes and demanding traditional climbing because then difficulty to protect leading. Sometimes climbing without gear for the ascent. There remains little visiting to climb the face. No traffic noise from interstate 93.    We found an old bolt and pin on this cliff.     At the lower summit, southeast is a block with two (5.10) finger cracks that are excellent, 30-40ft. in height and excellent for gear. I don't remember how to get down from the block's top.    The cliff has it prow (namesake) that is the longest section to climb. West of that are several off width cracks and further down through uprooted woods is a broken rock section of cliff 50ft high to reach the summit.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Indian Head Cliff on Mt. Pemigewasset