Cruxes above the first bolt and near the end. Face and steep crack.  sustained.

Jump Start

Bertha

Junior Achievement

Dimples

Pre-erosive Force

Tenuous! Well at least the last 20 or so feet are. Or maybe it's just because one is spoiled with the previous abundance of positive holds on the arete down lower. The pitch starts up a low angled right facing corner protected by 2 bolts. The first one seemed unnecessary and the second seemed to low and would have been better out on the face to the left. The third bolt is hard to reach for those of us with t-rex arms but protects a few difficult moves getting on the arete. At this point you know, game on. A 2 finger pocket helps if you find it. Thoughtful movement along the arete help you link one jug to the next but eventually, somewhere around the 11th or 12 bolt, your luck runs out and you'r left with the question, do I go left or do I go right? I will leave that up to you to decide although I am not sure one way is better than the other. At this point I am  unsure if I loved or hatted this route. I guess I just don't like that insecure feeling of feeling insecure. There are ample bolts so a fall is no big deal. In the end if you figure out the puzzles of getting from bolt to bolt without falling you will also wonder if you loved it too. Nice route Kelly.

Pitch 1: 10c, 70', 9 bolts. Start as for Dimples. Backclean or extend second bolt. Tricky boulder problem over bulge, keep an eye out for good two finger pockets. Break left at the fifth bolt out the patina corner, use good edges, pockets, and the nice crack. Shares anchor with Junior Acheivement at a nice stance.

Pitch 2: 10a, 80', 10 bolts. Follow bolt line up into shallow right facing corner with good edges and pockets. At top of corner, step up and left to crack system with more good pockets. Follow crack to anchor on nice stance on top of pillar.

Link into an awesome mega pitch with 20 draws and extension.

Mantle into the thin corner. Step up into thin locks and reach up and left to good holds. Swerve right then back left across the seam and finger crack. Nice patina slab to finish.

Fantastic and varied route. Really packs a punch.

Love it or hate it sort of route. I love it.

Certainly harder by modern gorge standards than the boldschool 11d assigned to the route elsewhere.

A strange start crossing slick slabby blocks to the right leads to a gently steep wall.  Trend up and left on sustained moves eventually gaining better holds and rests and ultimately, the anchors.  Decent route but some of the rock is still "eroding" but not chossy by Gorge standards.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Junior Area