The namesake for the area. This route needs little introduction to anyone familiar with climbing in Lander. It begins with a hard sequence passing the first bolt using either a mono for the right hand or an undercling. From here the next 6 or so bolts follow jugs up the arête to a decent rest. Next fire a cool dyno and then move right past an interesting sequence to gain the upper arête. Milk a crappy rest and then fire the cryptic crux. Your right hand slaps the arête and your left hand uses the sparse pockets and edges on the left face.  Once past the crux there is still a fair bit of dancy slab climbing to get you to the anchors.

Strawberry Roan

All The Pretty Horses

Blood Meridian

Just left of the Strawberry Roan. Starts by pulling a small roof to a long section of juggy face climbing. It is probably 12b and 70 feet to the break before the upper headwall. Next, make some long moves to gain a shallow dihedral on high quality pink colored stone. The crux is navigating this seem on laybacks and crummy feet up to the anchor.

Mostly superb climbing up the center of the Roan wall.  The first three bolts of this route are reachy and there is a persistently damp crimp between bolt two and three.  Once at bolt three, the climbing becomes really enjoyable with large and small positive pockets and fun sequences through steepish rock.  You get a very good rest at bolt eight, followed by two bolts of jug hauling through steeper rock.  This first section is probably 12b, the hardest part being the sequence between bolt two and three.

You reach the first crux at bolt ten, passing a small overlap to gain the upper panel of the cliff.  The rock quality is amazing from this point on.  You make a few big moves between decent but small holds to gain a good left hand pocket.  This felt about V7. There is an ok shake here with another pocket for the right hand.  After this you have to do the hardest part of the route, consisting of 2 deadpoints, first to to left hand crimp and then to a right hand pinch. The moves are  powerful, it’s probably around V8.  Fifteen or twenty feet of 5.12 guards the anchor.  A very quality route except for the start.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Strawberry Roan