Very similar to it's neighbor to the left.  Hard cranking off the deck.  Balancy slab move getting over the bulge.  Finish up just left of the easy overhangning roof.  If the crux at the bulge seems too difficult.  Look for the good feet that start on the left and traverse up and right back across the bolt line.  You can almost walk through the crux only using hands for balance.

South American Bowtie

Poker Face Joe

Unknown

"Number 3"

Ferocity

Hysteria

Rage

Summer Fugue

Violence

No Frets

Fiddler on the Roof

Riot

Zagreb (Unnamed  4)

Cranking hard right off the ground.  Climbs great pockets up to a nice bulge above it eases up.  Finishes out on a nice left leaning flake.  Crux depends on your poision.  The lower secion has some great moves, that could be cruxy, especially if you like the balancy slab move at the bulge, which seemes to be easier every time I climb it.

Climb up on good pockets.  The bulge presents the greatest obstacle to sending.  I worked left of the bolt line on thin feet, hips dipped in, worked the thin holds back right to get the clipping hold, followed by less desperate climbing with better holds as the angle eases somewhat.

Climb up a sustained slab, with a slightly harder section 15' up.  Can finish easily on the anchors of "Riot" to avoid cleaning if desired.

The hardest of the (4) .11s, this one adds a bit of power at the crux and is much more continuous. Hard move off the ground gains a good stance at some big holes. A powerful undercling follows allowing a long reach to a good pocket but then some bad holds. The climbing stays in the upper 5.11 range until on the slab. Continue up fun orange rock to the anchor. Great technical route. Very soft for 5.12 but also quite hard in the 5.11 grade. Classic 5.11d/.12a!

Climb the great pockets up the rounded corner.  To extract the full potential from this route, stay true to the line, avoid moving right after the 1st bolt where you can steal a jug or two from #7.  A good clipping hold for the 2nd.  The balancy move at the bulge usually causes the most problems, getting a high left foot is usually the ideal way.  Another bolt, and you will be at the chains.  The rock looks chossy up near the chains but has been stable.

Climb great pockets up to the bulge (crux) and make the long move, mantle up the easy slab section.  Shorter climbers will have to get their feet unusually high to get through the crux, making the grade seem stiff. 

  It is tempting to climb off to the right, as the good holds go higher over there, but will take you way off line.  Get the right hand into the key hold below the bulge.  Bring up the left, onto the bad holds, more for balance, as you must get your right foot high, look for rubber skuffs, and then fire up to the small but good pocket up and left of the bolt.  Don't get suckered by the slopey pocket that looks good but is terrible.

Climb up on great pockets.  2nd too 3rd is the crux.  Holds lead to the right, but don't get too wide.  The big move is out to the jug on the left.  Shorter people will feel this should be up in the 10's, because of the long move.  The upper section is easy slab.  A few cool moves up near the chains.  Finish on the "JUG", which I call the best hold in the canyon.

Great climbing on solid pockets rules the lower section of this route.  Near the bulge is a nice reachy crux (white patch), that feels super desperate if your stressing.   Commit to the move, because the good holds are up there.  The upper section is a forgettable walk up to the chains, typical of this wall.  The varied nature of this route can put some down simply because they don't like the move.  A Worthy climb.

A mellow start working up to the first bolt where the angle kicks up you will find some excellent pockets. The crux comes at the bulge an you near the white section.  The pockets disappear replaced by vague crimps and dusty slopers.  Work through the slab section.  The upper section adds a few more moves to the chains.

Three cruxes on this one.  First off the deck, surmounting the bulge that is apart of every route in this section.  Thin edges get you up to a rest, followed by a short pumpy, though far less technical.  Setting this route apart from any of the other 11's, the roofcrack up top is the cherry on top.  Fingerlocks and a few fists up top, soon your holding onto the jug.  Sit down, clip the chains.

Start up less than vertical, highly featured, beautiful limestone. Climb up through a mini-crack system (not crack climbing), through a small bulge (crux), past some ledges, and through more featured slab.

Like its neighbors, hard climbing off the ground and past the 2nd bolt on small holds. Eases up a touch on fun pockets then an easier .11 bulge leads to the slab. Fun finish takes you to the chains. Great rock, movement and fun holds the whole way.

The Violince Wall, aka the Warmup Wall, features the best selection of moderate routes in the canyon.  The black, grey and tan streaked limestone is of the highest quality, rivaling that of any cliff in the country.  The wall faces Northeast, so receives some morning sun, making it a great cliff for warming up.   

  Routes here range from slightly slabby, to just past vertical, with the occasional roof or bulge.  Grades range from 5.8 to 5.11+, with one 5.13a, Wild Deuces.  Climbing is generally on thin pockets and edges.  Good footwork and balance are essential, but the occasional bomber jug keeps things fun.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Violince Wall