A little climbed route considering how busy Phoenix Buttress can be.  Frustrating climbing figuring out what is the intended line versus whats there decreases enjoyment for many.  Choose your own line in about a 4 foot swath on either side of the bolt line for part of the route.  You can avoid the apparent intended crux by staying left at the 2nd bolt.

Drill 'Em and Fill 'Em

Llamas on the Edge

JT's Route

License To Bolt

Phoenix

Hissing Llamas

Carabid

Fred On Air

When Llamas Bolt

Arguably the finest 5.10a in the park, the Phoenix has great moves, high quality rock, and bolts just where you need them.  This climb combines several powerful moves with a classic crimpy crux.   

  A cam or nut may be placed down low as the first bolt is a bit exposed.

This climb starts as per When Llamas Bolt, but rides the slab up the right side of the arete, with the leader clipping somewhat awkwardly around the left corner. Clip three of these arete bolts this way, moving up until all holds are gone, then carefully move right to join the crux of Hissing Llamas. A touch of caution is prudent here, as a fall would whip you around the corner.

A very popular route at Phoenix Buttress.  Easy starting moves becoming increasingly challenging as you move up the shallow dihedral. The difficulties culminate in the crux move navigating the bulge onto the slab finish.

This vicious little route hits you with a low crux but stays on you till the anchor.   The rock is sharp but the moves excellent. It may be a bit easier for tall people.

A good climb for the grade. 

  Romp up big jugs to a thought provoking move left at the top.

If not for difficult to place protection and runout sections Carabid would make an excellent first gear lead. From the standard start climb a crack system up about 100 feet and then use a hand traverse right to reconnect to the crack system.  Continue up a few feet and then traverse left about 20 feet to a set of bolt anchors. A 50-meter rope will reach the anchors for Drill 'em and Fill 'em or Phoenix.  A second rap reaches the ground.  A 60-meter rope will reach the standard start then down climb to gully to the ground.

A tricky crux past a bulge down low can be bypassed by cheating left to the arete.  The best part of the route is above this in the steep, beautiful finishing slab, finessing moves between small pockets.

A worhty climb up the arete on the far left side of the Phoenix Wall. 

  Climb easy rock past a few bolts to the arete. The bolts follow the left side of the arete but the easier climbing stays on the right. A hard reach from crimps hits at the top of the arete. 

This east facing wall is a popular locale on warmer days as it becomes shaded around noon.  Previously routes were constricted to the area around the classic Phoenix (10.a).  In the last few years however there has been a flurry of development in this area and between Phoenix and Asterik pass.   

  The rock here ranges from choss to a high quality dark red tuff.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (3) Phoenix