start up a recessed corner/crack system past 3 bolts and an easy blocky stretch to chain  anchors.5.9.  The upper face pitch, 5.9,  is 12 bolts.  After the crux there's easy but steep climbing past some beautifully sculpted natural pockets.

Castle Magic

Flashflood

Funky Cole Patina

D.W.P.

Cement Overshoes

Pumping Groundwater

Incredible line straight up the center of the face.  Follow small edges up to a slight traverse left to gain the flake.  Layback up the flake and make a long, strenuous move back onto the face. Another hard move guards the finishing slab.  Sustained.  Try not to think about Bachar soloing it while your climbing.

Beautiful edges on bomber rock.  Starts at the same place at Flashflood.  Hit a bouldery crux after the 2nd bolt and a couple more hard moves in the next couple of bolts.  Cruise to the last bolt on more very enjoyable edges.  Then pull one more hardish move getting to the anchors with the last bolt below your feet.

Left around the corner from DWP lies this slightly chossy gem.

Used to be kind of popular in a cult way but looks like it has fallen into the realm of the obscure...boulder out the bottom then wander to the post apocalyptic anchors...

Superb cracklet and face to the right of "Flashflood"...

Have heard trad complaints due to the stellar crack with bolts on the bottom...but I enjoyed clipping from the locks...

Maybe easier if you are taller.  11d felt right to me.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Penstock Rock