P1) Start at the toe of the slabby buttress (right skyline as seen from the parking area) and climb up towards a roof (this first bit is the same as

T.S. Special

. At the roof turn the corner to the left and climb improbable face past 3 bolts to a bolted hanging belay.

P2) Steep smears lead off the belay to a bolt, after which comes the crux- a balance move to a right facing flake. Continue up the flake past a fixed pin and some gear placements to a bolted anchor/rap.

Although possible to do in a single pitch if mindful of rope drag, this is best done in two. A hanging belay midway allows one to enjoy the desert from a unique perspective and contemplate the wild-looking crux pitch above. A single rope rap (100') from the top with a 60 meter rope will get you back to terra firma.

Swept Away

Nuts are for Men Without Balls

Pope's Crack, Direct Finish

The Hurricane Crack

Moment's Notice

My Idea of Fun

London Calling

Street Sweeper

Primal Scream

Sonic and the Hot Dog Water

Belgian Chongo

Pope's Crack

Sole Fusion

British Airways

Rule Britannia

Raked over the Coles

Feets Don't Fail Me Now

Tucker-Powell

Roof, the

T.S. Special

An old gift from John Bachar, traverse right following wild features before exiting on the arete/slab.

In a large alcove on the south face of Echo Rock, starting near the ground, are three closely space crack routes.  This is the center one.  It's one of the warmest places in the park on a sunny morning.  The climb is a hand and fist crack, with poor protection.  I can imagine the route name was Charles' response to a belayer asking why he wasn't placing any nuts.

An exciting finish that makes a classic route even more classic.

Climb the crack straight up to the big roof, then climb out the right side of the roof past a fixed pin and a bolt. At the lip of the roof, reach right to a good hold. Once you're over the roof, it's 30 feet of class 4 slab to the top.

The overhang is well protected and much easier than it looks!

Start up Street Sweeper for the first 2 bolts then head up left to the obvious overhanging finger crack.

This is the left-to-right traversing dike system that crosses

Pope's Crack

and begins by chimneying between the enormous boulder and the main face to reach the aforementioned dike system. Surf the dike out right passing one bolt and some easy but sizable runouts, stopping to place gear in the crack of

Pope's Crack

, until reaching a belay spot where the dike disappears briefly. Bring up the second and then make your way down to the rap anchors for the immediate vicinity.

A novel outing with the hardest moves well protected but still not the best choice for the budding leader despite the easy rating.

Chossy (probably not climbed a whole lot). Starting at a horizontal   crack on the west side of the south face, move right following the bolts up to the horizontal dike. The crux is moving from the lower flakes under the crack to the right side across the cut out. From there it gets runout getting around the corner, past the obvious corner edge (around 5.10) and up to the anchors.

This route starts down and right of British Airways. A small cam protects hard moves getting to 1st bolt. The crux move is getting past the 1st bolt (very technical moves - 5.11c). Above 2 more bolts protect face climbing on big plates (a bit loose) up and then left to join British Airways at its 1st bolt. Finish up British Airways (you do the crux of it as well). Would give it only 2 of 5 stars. Rap off.

In the photo, the lower section is hidden by the boulder; crux is reaching over the small roof you can just see.

Fun and interesting face climbing that leads past three or four bolts to meet Swept Away at (or a little beyond) its crux. The crux is joining Swept Away and consists of a rather beguiling thin face section. Fall from the end of this section and realize the origins of the name (although I don't think you'll actually hit the ramp at the bottom)!

In a large alcove on the south face of Echo Rock, starting near the ground, are three closely space crack routes. This is the right one. It's a grainy, well-protected crack with a long move up on a severely flared hand jam at the crux.  I thought  the crux move was so novel that the route deserves three stars.  This location is one of the warmest places in the park on a sunny morning.  I had to wait for a very cold day to do the flared hand jam move without falling off due to sweat.

This is a slab route that goes up the slab between Cole/Evans and Feet Don't Fail Me Now, on the South Face of Echo Rock.

Starts by tunneling under a enormous boulder (see location) and then climbs a generic slab past a solitary bolt to a healthy runout as the angle eases to a horizontal (medium gear possible here) then romp up the slabby apron above to the top of the finishing block of

Pope's Crack

. Gear belay and wander down to the communal rap anchor in the area.

Starting from boulders climb the prominent finger/hand crack in a flared right-facing corner which slowly arches up and left passing along the left side of a small roof. A little ways past the roof set a high piece and then

downclimb

left along a dike to gain another crack system which is followed to the top. Three stars out of five.

To descend work down and right from the top to rappel anchors atop

British Airways

.

Start 15 feet right of Pope's Crack behind a clump of yuccas, and climb the left-facing flared corner with an intermittent crack/seam in it's back (5.10) to it's end - pro is decent but the 1st placement is quite high. Above, continue up a steep slab with two bolts that passes along the right edge of a small roof. The climbing in the upper section (5.11a) is characterized by thin edges that require both delicate footwork and thoughtful movement.

A good route in a sheltered location that gets lots of sun for those cold and windy days. The somewhat runout nature of the route means it gets led infrequently, but a toprope is easily rigged by climbing Pope's Crack as the rappel for that route takes you right over this route. Three stars out of five.

This route is located about 80 feet right of Pope's Crack, on the south end of Echo Rock. Start out of a "Gotcha"-Cat's Claw bush/tree to reach a left-leaning crack (5.9). Above, doubled bolts protect moves left onto dark patina rock with a thin crack (thin cams, stoppers). Standing atop the patina to reach the next bolt is definately the psychological crux, though the thin smearing above the 3rd (last) bolt is probably technically harder.

This rarely climbed route is actually well worth doing and could benefit from more ascents (it is just a bit gritty in places). Though a little necky of a lead, very small cams can be used to protect the intimidating step up to the 2nd bolt.

This excellent crack climb is located about 100 feet right of

Pope's Crack

. It is first crack (of a series of vertical cracks) that actually reaches the top. The crack that peters out to its left can be used as an alternate start (but why?).

The crux comes early (getting established into the "pod"); after that sustained 5.10 crack leads to a ledge. Descend by rapping off the 2 bolt anchor atop

British Airways

.

This bolted route is on the very warm and sunny south face of Echo Rock.  It goes up and left from just left of the descent gully.  It isn't as nice a route as the faces over by Stichter Quits.

Starts by tunneling under a enormous boulder (see location) and then climbs a generic slab past three bolts then a slight runout as the angle eases to reach the left side of the finishing block of

Pope's Crack

. Gear belay and wander down to the communal rap anchor in the area.

Per the name, this is a roof problem.  It's short, with fun moves, and poor rock.  It starts high above Pope's Crack.

Start at the toe of the buttress (same as for Swept Away) and climb the slab directly up to the prominent roof which is turned via some thought-provoking moves to a stance with a bolt. Higher, easier moves lead up and left to the bolted belay/rap for Swept Away. Rap off with a single 60 meter rope or make it more of an adventure and walk off.

A fun route that is recommended for those solid at the grade. Pro can be placed in the crack at the base of the roof, but the moves over the roof are largely unprotected and will result in a fall onto the slab.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Echo Rock - South Face