Cranial Prophylactic is reached by following the approach to the Perhaps wall, and then following the wall downhill.  Look for a finger crack with a bolt about 15' up.

Fire up the crack, with a crux at the bolt.  After this, the climbing eases and follows a crack system up and slightly left to a 3-bolt anchor.  Many people rap from here, one rope rap.

If continuing up (I didn't), the route goes into a right facing dihedral with a pin.  It continues up and eventually works left to a topout.  Two rope rap or a one rope rap with downclimbing if this second pitch is done.

Cranial Prophylactic

Bottleneck

Kermit's Direct Start

Smitty's Wet Dream

Paranoia Streak

Lend Me a Dime

Kermit's Wad

Beavers Cleaver

Punany

Revenge of the Nerds

Lime Line Variation

Kermit's Direct Finish

Centerfold

This has to be one of the best, if not the best, of the Contor-Taylor team's routes in the Cottonwoods.  Although probably best considered a "sport route," it has much more adventure than your typical clip-up, requiring a blend of slab technique, creativity, and power.  Rumor has it that some holds have broken off, particularly on the first pitch, which I don't doubt given what appears to be some of the remnants and a short section of dubious rock around the quasi-hanging belay.  However, it still goes at "easy" 12, and if this is your standard and you haven't been on it, you just gotta do it.  I bet there isn't another route like it in Utah.

(1) Relatively easy climbing protected by gear leads up to a rising traverse past five well-spaced bolts to the stance.  The climbing gets increasingly challenging and trickier to figure out the closer you get to the small foot-stance that serves as the belay.  Probably 12a, but I'll go 12b given the mental calculus and zen-like balance needed to solve the crux.  A short chain was added a few years ago to one of the bolts to make the clip easier, I think, but it also helps the logistics of bailing if the crux proves too much.

(2) Make a few moves up past a bolt and step around the corner to wild climbing protected by a few more bolts and outstanding exposure.  Chains on top.  If this pitch were off the ground, it likely would get more traffic that

All Chalk

.  Probably a give-away 12a.   This pitch also serves as the latter and much easier half of

Agent Orange

.

An old school thrutch fest.

Grovel up loose-ish rock and dirt to a squeezey chimbley.

Up and out with a traverse left then up to a point where an anchor can be had.

Used to be a couple of old, rusty fixed pins.

Instead of climbing up the rightward trending ramp, climb directly up the face to the small roof band, place a cam with a runner, and make the crux move up onto the face.  Relatively easy climbing joins in with Kermit's Wad.

Smitty's Wet Dream is reached by following the approach to the Perhaps wall, and then following the wall downhill.  Pass Cranial Prophylactic, and continue to the next crack system to the left.

Start up a small slab, heading into a very thin steep dihedral (Lime Line Variation 5.10d).  Don't climb the dihedral, instead finger traverse left on a flake/crack.  Once on the left face, climb up a short finger crack to a slab with a bolt.  Clip this and head slightly right into a thin right facing dihedral.  Follow this to the anchors, getting great face holds up higher.

Either rap with one rope (Cranial Prophylactic's anchors), or do CP's second pitch.

On the left side of the

Kermit's Wall

area is a long, thin water streak.  The route follows the lower part of this streak, shifts right, then crosses back left to exit via a crack under a large block.

(The route that continues directly up the streak is

Koyaanisqaatsi

, a .12c balance-fest which I have yet to contemplate.)

Bring both your edging shoes and your lead head, as the second clip is serious.

Aesthetic, stimulating, and fun to the finish!  Combine this with

Mind Blow

for a two-of-a-kind session of crystal dancing.

Starting (30 feet?) left of Smitty's Wet Dream, you will see an angling ledge system moving up and right then onto a blank face with four bolts.  The blank face is the crux and was pretty slick in my memory.  You are heading up and right to meet the top of Cranial Prophylactic.

Descent:75 foot rappel.

Head up the seam and wander back and forth across the face finally heading up a series of small roofs. Joins Bottleneck briefly at the OW.  Finish up paranoia

This route starts the same ramp as

Centerfold

and goes left after about 12 feet.  Follow 5 bolts up through three overlaps of rock and onto the blank face right of

Kermits Wad

.  Climb through micro-senquencial friction moves to gain the green face above.  The small holds on the green face will seem like ledges once you reach them, and join with the last bolt of

Kermits Wad

.  Follow the ramp to the anchor.

Easier to enter than you'd think.  The top bolt was drilled off a shakey hook and is in a nonideal location.  You have to do a move to get there but its safe and adds a lot to the character of the route.

Start up a small slab, heading into a very thin steep dihedral.  This dihedral is the crux, and may be hard to protect.  Climb up thin holds in the dihedral, joining Smitty's Wet Dream after 15' - 20' up.  Follow Smitty's to the anchors.

Either rap with one rope (Cranial Prophylactic's anchors), or do CP's second pitch.

Rather bailing to the right near the finish of Kermit's Wad to the chains continue straight up the steep head wall. Two bolts protect the moves.  Careful climbing on the ramp above the anchors bolt will lead to a crack that can be used to protect whomever follows the route. Blowing the moves past the last bolt will result in a pendulum.

Combine the direct start with direct finish makes for some exciting climbing.

Just right of Kermit's Wad and now Punany, is a right facing crack system that Punany actuially starts in before it climbs up and left to the 1st bolt.  Centerfold climbs this crack that has marginal protection.  The climbing is fun, the line is great...if it protected better it should be more popular.  Come and enjoy, and if you don't enjoy this lead, climb Cranial or Smitty's and enjoy this climb on top-rope.

Description

Protection

Routes in Kermits Wall